PLEASE READ: Transmission replacement nightmare
10-09-03, 09:59 PM
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
PLEASE READ: Transmission replacement nightmare
Okay, get this. I think my car is heading for a disaster and I am certainly NOT happy. 
Actually, I am beyond mad now but I think I really need to calm down first. At least I have to figure out what the problems are before I shoot my mechanic and run over his body with my SOARER.
I apologize for this long post but any feedbacks/help (including any recourse to this disaster) would be greatly appreciated.
Before I start, please refer to my post "weird tranny noise"; every problem I am having now originated from this problem.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=96971
NOTE: Before my transmission was replaced, my power steering pump (which was just
replaced 40k miles ago, was functioning properly without a single noise.
My car has just passed 170k miles.
Here's the story after I discovered my transmission problem:
October. 1-2003.
I took my car to the shop for a check up because my transmission was slipping and would not upshift. After test driving my car, the mechanic discovered that my car's tranny was slipping and would not upshift even though the RPM goes past 4k. Also, the car would not exceed 20mph no matter how much I revved the engine. Please refer to this post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=97884
The mechanic checked my tranny fluid and it was dark. He decided that my tranny had failed and I should leave the car in the shop for a tranny replacement. My mechanic said he would do the swap for $425.00 as long as I bring in my own replacement tranny. I agreed. Fortunately, I was able to locate a used transmission from a 94' SC400 (with approximately 86k miles) from a local junk yard (Tap Recycling) for about $500.00 in time. Two days later, I had the junk yard delivered the tranny to the shop for a tranny swap. Fair enough.
October, 7-2003.
My mechanic called me and explained that I had to replace my kick down throttle cable because it was almost severed. He said the replacement tranny was already installed but the cable should be replaced immediately. What? Shouldn't he have found out about this a few days ago, when he was installing the tranny? After all, they started working on my tranny two days ago. Fine. I had to wait for an extra day for the part to be ordered from a local Lexus dealer and pay $82 for the part and additional $75.00 for the labor.
October. 8-2003.
After 7 days of waiting, my tranny was finally installed/ready. I happily went to the shop and paid for the repair bills. The total amount turned out to be $500.00 for labor. The service includes tranny swap, coolant replacement, tranny fluid, and an oil change.
In addition, there was also an extra $200.00 charge for MISC parts (Front pump seal, rear main seal, kick down throttle cables, tranny/oil filter, coolant, Toyota Type IV fluids, etc.). I was particularly unhappy about the transmission kick down cable because the mechanic did NOT tell me about this until the last minute. I think this is highly unusual because if my kick down cable was indeed, damaged, shouldn't they have found out a long time ago?
On with the story, the $700.00 charge obviously does NOT include the cost of the transmission. When I paid for the bill, I was told that my car was in perfect shape (no oil leak, no loose hose, only a slightly leaking of PS fluid around the rack/pinion area). All the pumps checked up okay.
As fate would have it, before I picked up the car, the mechanic discovered that they'd forgotten to change the oil on my car. Fine, I waited for another 20 mins. for the oil change. Instead of using name brand oil, my mechanic said he would use Napa 10W-30 on my car. Oh well.... since he had no other brand. I basically had no choice but to go with Napa.
When they drove out the car after the oil change, the disaster happened. There was a huge leak as the mechanic backed up my car to the parking lot. Upon inspection, it turned out to be a leaky PS pump rubber hose connecting the pump to the other component. And get this, while inspecting this problem, I also discovered a dime sized ding on my driver side door! I let the ding incident slide since I was more worried about my car's mechanical problems. The mechanic did apologize to me for the ding because there was powder on the ding.
Unfortunately, I could not leave my car there with the shop anymore. Taking bus for the past 7 days has already driven me nuts. And there's just no way that I could keep on taking bus to work and school all this time. Besides, I didn't want to get another ding on my door! Before I took the car, my mechanic said it was okay for me to drive the car back home but I should bring it back the next day as soon as possible so they can fix the hose for me. Fine.
During my short drive home, except for super heavy steering wheel feel, my transmission shifted a lot smoother. There was no more jerking and shakings. However, I could no longer spin my rear tires when I stumped on the throttle.
NOTE: Before I replaced the transmission, I had 16' Lexus OEM chrome GS300 rims with 225/60/16ZR Michelin tires on my car and I had no problem spinning the rear wheels if I just hit the gas more than half way. While my car was getting the tranny swap, I went ahead and replaced my rims/tires with a set of 17' Lexus OEM silver GS400 rims with 235/45/17ZR Michelin Pilot Sport tires on my car (luckily, I got a very good deal on this set from a friend of mine who just upgraded his rims/tires). I was under the impression that my car would still be able to spin the rear wheels because the 17' GS400 rims, being silver, should be lighter than the 16' chrome GS300 rims.. However, even if I almost floored the gas, my rear tires would still stay planted.
October. 9-2003.
I've driven the car for no more than 15-20 miles since the power steering fluid leak. Apparently, the PS pump reservoir was empty or almost empty since my car turned like a Mack truck and I had to crank the steer wheel pretty hard to make turns. Fortunately, the traffic was not so bad today so I didn't have to make any "full turn" while I was driving. I only drove my car in the city and I never went past 45mph throughout this entire time.
I came back to the shop and this time, they carefully removed my old PS pump hose (this time I stook by the mechanic throughout the entire process because I was afraid to get another ding on my door) and installed a brand new unit from Toyota in 30mins. or so. After the installation, the mechanic did NOT lift the car and drain the fluid. Instead, he just went ahead and poured in Preston Power Steering fluid into my PS reservoir until it was filled.
Good, now there's no more leak in the system. But the good news was only temporal. There were more bad news. My power steering wheel pump is now making a whining noise when the front wheels are being turned. Notice that it was NOT making any noise at all when I first pulled into the shop just 30 mins ago. The whining noise sounds like a high pitching, scratching sound. When my mechanic opened the PS reservoir cap, I could also see the bubbles in my power steering wheel reservoir.
Obviously I was very upset. I knew the PS pump was somehow damaged. The mechanic said it's not necessarily the PS pump's problem. It could just be unequalized pressure in the fluids. Fine, I agreed to wait for another 30 mins. longer for them to lift up my car, drain my system of the fluids from the bottom of my car, and replaced the fluid with PS pump fluid puchased directly from the Toyota dealer.
Unfortunately, after everything's done, the noise still persisted!!!!!
I asked the shop for a recourse and they said they would be able to locate a used PS pump for me but I'll be charged for all the costs. I was speechless. They escalated the entire problem and now they still want to charge me for something that's most likely not my fault?
Since it was late and they were about to close anyway, I simply walked out and drove away without arguing with them.
Here's what my PS pump sounds like as of now: It makes whiny noise as I turn my steering wheel. The noise is NOT as bad as loud groaning noises as many have suggested for a failed PS pump. However, as I turn the steering wheel to the left and right as my car's parked with engine running, I can observe my engine RPM fluctuating a couple hundred RPMs deviating from the normal 600RPM speed.
My questions are:
1. What recourses can I take under this situation? I've already paid the shop $700.00 for the
tranny swap so I am not planning to give them another dime.
2. Is it really my PS pump that's damaged? Or is there a simple fix that I can undertake to
avoid replacing my PS pump?
3. If my PS pump is really damaged. How soon should I get it replaced before it affects my
alternator?
4. Since I must drive my car around for a few more days before I can take it to a shop, how
can I tell if the PS pump is indeed, affecting my alternator?
5. Since I took my car in on day one, has the shop been honest with me at all? Or have
they been dishonest SOBs all this time?
6. Did I pay too much for the tranny swap? ($500 for a used tranny, $500 for labor and $200
for MISC new parts) If so, what should be a reasonable price for a tranny replacement?
7. What should I do about this PS pump situation? Should the shop be responsible for my
PS pump failure?
8. Where can I find a new PS pump for cheap? And how much would it cost me?
9. How much would labor be to replace my PS pump?
10. What should I do about the ding on my driver side door? Should the shop be responsible
for it?
11. As for my car now NOT being able to spin the rear wheels, did the shop do something
that might've caused this? Or is it simply something that my ECU has to adjust to? Or
is it my newly installed Michelin Pilot Sport tires?
12. Is Napa motor oil even a reputable brand?
13. Dent Pro at my local Lexus dealer quoted me $95 per panel to fix all my door
dings/dents. Is this a reasonable charge? Has anyone tried Dent Pro? How does it
compare to other guys such as Dent Wizard and Dent Doctors?
Again, sorry for the long post but I am really frustrated at this point. I've already paid almost $1.3k just for the a service that seems to be leading to other disasters for my car.
Please advise....
Thanks a lot in advance.
Jon
Actually, I am beyond mad now but I think I really need to calm down first.
At least I have to figure out what the problems are before I shoot my mechanic and run over his body with my SOARER.I apologize for this long post but any feedbacks/help (including any recourse to this disaster) would be greatly appreciated.
Before I start, please refer to my post "weird tranny noise"; every problem I am having now originated from this problem.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=96971
NOTE: Before my transmission was replaced, my power steering pump (which was just
replaced 40k miles ago, was functioning properly without a single noise.
My car has just passed 170k miles.
Here's the story after I discovered my transmission problem:
October. 1-2003.
I took my car to the shop for a check up because my transmission was slipping and would not upshift. After test driving my car, the mechanic discovered that my car's tranny was slipping and would not upshift even though the RPM goes past 4k. Also, the car would not exceed 20mph no matter how much I revved the engine. Please refer to this post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=97884
The mechanic checked my tranny fluid and it was dark. He decided that my tranny had failed and I should leave the car in the shop for a tranny replacement. My mechanic said he would do the swap for $425.00 as long as I bring in my own replacement tranny. I agreed. Fortunately, I was able to locate a used transmission from a 94' SC400 (with approximately 86k miles) from a local junk yard (Tap Recycling) for about $500.00 in time. Two days later, I had the junk yard delivered the tranny to the shop for a tranny swap. Fair enough.
October, 7-2003.
My mechanic called me and explained that I had to replace my kick down throttle cable because it was almost severed. He said the replacement tranny was already installed but the cable should be replaced immediately. What? Shouldn't he have found out about this a few days ago, when he was installing the tranny? After all, they started working on my tranny two days ago. Fine. I had to wait for an extra day for the part to be ordered from a local Lexus dealer and pay $82 for the part and additional $75.00 for the labor.
October. 8-2003.
After 7 days of waiting, my tranny was finally installed/ready. I happily went to the shop and paid for the repair bills. The total amount turned out to be $500.00 for labor. The service includes tranny swap, coolant replacement, tranny fluid, and an oil change.
In addition, there was also an extra $200.00 charge for MISC parts (Front pump seal, rear main seal, kick down throttle cables, tranny/oil filter, coolant, Toyota Type IV fluids, etc.). I was particularly unhappy about the transmission kick down cable because the mechanic did NOT tell me about this until the last minute. I think this is highly unusual because if my kick down cable was indeed, damaged, shouldn't they have found out a long time ago?
On with the story, the $700.00 charge obviously does NOT include the cost of the transmission. When I paid for the bill, I was told that my car was in perfect shape (no oil leak, no loose hose, only a slightly leaking of PS fluid around the rack/pinion area). All the pumps checked up okay.
As fate would have it, before I picked up the car, the mechanic discovered that they'd forgotten to change the oil on my car. Fine, I waited for another 20 mins. for the oil change. Instead of using name brand oil, my mechanic said he would use Napa 10W-30 on my car. Oh well.... since he had no other brand. I basically had no choice but to go with Napa.
When they drove out the car after the oil change, the disaster happened. There was a huge leak as the mechanic backed up my car to the parking lot. Upon inspection, it turned out to be a leaky PS pump rubber hose connecting the pump to the other component. And get this, while inspecting this problem, I also discovered a dime sized ding on my driver side door! I let the ding incident slide since I was more worried about my car's mechanical problems. The mechanic did apologize to me for the ding because there was powder on the ding.
Unfortunately, I could not leave my car there with the shop anymore. Taking bus for the past 7 days has already driven me nuts. And there's just no way that I could keep on taking bus to work and school all this time. Besides, I didn't want to get another ding on my door! Before I took the car, my mechanic said it was okay for me to drive the car back home but I should bring it back the next day as soon as possible so they can fix the hose for me. Fine.
During my short drive home, except for super heavy steering wheel feel, my transmission shifted a lot smoother. There was no more jerking and shakings. However, I could no longer spin my rear tires when I stumped on the throttle.
NOTE: Before I replaced the transmission, I had 16' Lexus OEM chrome GS300 rims with 225/60/16ZR Michelin tires on my car and I had no problem spinning the rear wheels if I just hit the gas more than half way. While my car was getting the tranny swap, I went ahead and replaced my rims/tires with a set of 17' Lexus OEM silver GS400 rims with 235/45/17ZR Michelin Pilot Sport tires on my car (luckily, I got a very good deal on this set from a friend of mine who just upgraded his rims/tires). I was under the impression that my car would still be able to spin the rear wheels because the 17' GS400 rims, being silver, should be lighter than the 16' chrome GS300 rims.. However, even if I almost floored the gas, my rear tires would still stay planted.
October. 9-2003.
I've driven the car for no more than 15-20 miles since the power steering fluid leak. Apparently, the PS pump reservoir was empty or almost empty since my car turned like a Mack truck and I had to crank the steer wheel pretty hard to make turns. Fortunately, the traffic was not so bad today so I didn't have to make any "full turn" while I was driving. I only drove my car in the city and I never went past 45mph throughout this entire time.
I came back to the shop and this time, they carefully removed my old PS pump hose (this time I stook by the mechanic throughout the entire process because I was afraid to get another ding on my door) and installed a brand new unit from Toyota in 30mins. or so. After the installation, the mechanic did NOT lift the car and drain the fluid. Instead, he just went ahead and poured in Preston Power Steering fluid into my PS reservoir until it was filled.
Good, now there's no more leak in the system. But the good news was only temporal. There were more bad news. My power steering wheel pump is now making a whining noise when the front wheels are being turned. Notice that it was NOT making any noise at all when I first pulled into the shop just 30 mins ago. The whining noise sounds like a high pitching, scratching sound. When my mechanic opened the PS reservoir cap, I could also see the bubbles in my power steering wheel reservoir.
Obviously I was very upset. I knew the PS pump was somehow damaged. The mechanic said it's not necessarily the PS pump's problem. It could just be unequalized pressure in the fluids. Fine, I agreed to wait for another 30 mins. longer for them to lift up my car, drain my system of the fluids from the bottom of my car, and replaced the fluid with PS pump fluid puchased directly from the Toyota dealer.
Unfortunately, after everything's done, the noise still persisted!!!!!
I asked the shop for a recourse and they said they would be able to locate a used PS pump for me but I'll be charged for all the costs. I was speechless. They escalated the entire problem and now they still want to charge me for something that's most likely not my fault?
Since it was late and they were about to close anyway, I simply walked out and drove away without arguing with them.
Here's what my PS pump sounds like as of now: It makes whiny noise as I turn my steering wheel. The noise is NOT as bad as loud groaning noises as many have suggested for a failed PS pump. However, as I turn the steering wheel to the left and right as my car's parked with engine running, I can observe my engine RPM fluctuating a couple hundred RPMs deviating from the normal 600RPM speed.
My questions are:
1. What recourses can I take under this situation? I've already paid the shop $700.00 for the
tranny swap so I am not planning to give them another dime.
2. Is it really my PS pump that's damaged? Or is there a simple fix that I can undertake to
avoid replacing my PS pump?
3. If my PS pump is really damaged. How soon should I get it replaced before it affects my
alternator?
4. Since I must drive my car around for a few more days before I can take it to a shop, how
can I tell if the PS pump is indeed, affecting my alternator?
5. Since I took my car in on day one, has the shop been honest with me at all? Or have
they been dishonest SOBs all this time?
6. Did I pay too much for the tranny swap? ($500 for a used tranny, $500 for labor and $200
for MISC new parts) If so, what should be a reasonable price for a tranny replacement?
7. What should I do about this PS pump situation? Should the shop be responsible for my
PS pump failure?
8. Where can I find a new PS pump for cheap? And how much would it cost me?
9. How much would labor be to replace my PS pump?
10. What should I do about the ding on my driver side door? Should the shop be responsible
for it?
11. As for my car now NOT being able to spin the rear wheels, did the shop do something
that might've caused this? Or is it simply something that my ECU has to adjust to? Or
is it my newly installed Michelin Pilot Sport tires?
12. Is Napa motor oil even a reputable brand?
13. Dent Pro at my local Lexus dealer quoted me $95 per panel to fix all my door
dings/dents. Is this a reasonable charge? Has anyone tried Dent Pro? How does it
compare to other guys such as Dent Wizard and Dent Doctors?
Again, sorry for the long post but I am really frustrated at this point. I've already paid almost $1.3k just for the a service that seems to be leading to other disasters for my car.
Please advise....
Thanks a lot in advance.
Jon
10-09-03, 10:34 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2003
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Hey Jon,
Sorry to hear about all ur problems, but i had a similiar problem with the PS pump about 3 months ago. Yes, it is very damn expensive. Anyways the PS pump was damaged and needed replacement, also the hose connected to the pump was also leaking. Replaced both including parts and labor for about 1k+. Haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps.
JImbo
Sorry to hear about all ur problems, but i had a similiar problem with the PS pump about 3 months ago. Yes, it is very damn expensive. Anyways the PS pump was damaged and needed replacement, also the hose connected to the pump was also leaking. Replaced both including parts and labor for about 1k+. Haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps.
JImbo
10-09-03, 11:21 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Missouri
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Hey Jon --
I feel for you. It's very frustrating to have something fixed only to be followed by what seems to be a chain-reaction of problems. I've been following your threads on this topic for a while now, and have been experiencing SOME similar symptoms. First of all, I strongly feel that you should express your dissatisfaction to the shop where your SC went under the knife. It never hurts, especially since they admit to the ding. As for them lying to you, well that's a very hard thing to realize. I would say you're going to have to cut your losses bud . Unfortunately, I am fairly uneducated in the PS pump department, sorry. But, I would say that it's more than likely the wider, higher performance rated tires that are preventing your SC from spinning them. If I recall, your car has been tuned-up recently, otherwise it may need that. Or maybe it's that the car is under a lot of stress through all of this mechanical turmoil 
. But, seriously, I wish there was more I could do to help. Good luck with everthing.
Matt
I feel for you. It's very frustrating to have something fixed only to be followed by what seems to be a chain-reaction of problems. I've been following your threads on this topic for a while now, and have been experiencing SOME similar symptoms. First of all, I strongly feel that you should express your dissatisfaction to the shop where your SC went under the knife. It never hurts, especially since they admit to the ding. As for them lying to you, well that's a very hard thing to realize. I would say you're going to have to cut your losses bud
. Unfortunately, I am fairly uneducated in the PS pump department, sorry. But, I would say that it's more than likely the wider, higher performance rated tires that are preventing your SC from spinning them. If I recall, your car has been tuned-up recently, otherwise it may need that. Or maybe it's that the car is under a lot of stress through all of this mechanical turmoil . But, seriously, I wish there was more I could do to help. Good luck with everthing.Matt
10-09-03, 11:27 PM
#4
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
Your a lawyer and your asking us what recourse you have?
The P/S pump will do that untill all the air from the system is bled out. turning the steering wheel all the way from left to right about 20 times, then taking a 10 minute break and doing it again will solve the problem as long as you repeat the steps roughly 5 times to get it bled clean of air pockets.
FYI it took three days for mine to completely clear up while i followed this procedure to amount to roughly 5 sessions a day. Though it may not be nessesary, i chose to remove the reservoir cap for about 10 minutes and let the air bubbles escape after i rotated the wheel back and forth then reinstalled it when ready to go again. Normal driving will not purge the pump and rack, full revolutions must be made to each direction to allow the rack to open completely up and close on each side.
Wish i could give you some good news, but your about to lose the alt also since you let the P/S drain into it driving home as well as the massive dump it got at the mechanics. SO start pricing alternators.
The P/S pump will do that untill all the air from the system is bled out. turning the steering wheel all the way from left to right about 20 times, then taking a 10 minute break and doing it again will solve the problem as long as you repeat the steps roughly 5 times to get it bled clean of air pockets.
FYI it took three days for mine to completely clear up while i followed this procedure to amount to roughly 5 sessions a day. Though it may not be nessesary, i chose to remove the reservoir cap for about 10 minutes and let the air bubbles escape after i rotated the wheel back and forth then reinstalled it when ready to go again. Normal driving will not purge the pump and rack, full revolutions must be made to each direction to allow the rack to open completely up and close on each side.
Wish i could give you some good news, but your about to lose the alt also since you let the P/S drain into it driving home as well as the massive dump it got at the mechanics. SO start pricing alternators.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 10-09-03 at 11:29 PM.
10-09-03, 11:41 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Well, suing the bastard sure sounds like a good idea but I'd rather spend my time on something else, like figuring out what I can do to fix my car.
Wait.. are you suggesting that my PS pump has NOT failed then? Before I left the shop today, I actually had the guy lift up my car and drain my PS fluid from the bottom by starting up my car and cranking my wheels back and forth a few times. Then he sealed the bottom and added a new bottle of Toyota PS fluid in. The result was the same.
Don't tell me onelasttry. I would die if my alt. goes out on me. Judging from the way the fluid was leaking yesterday. It was NOT leaking from the pump itself. Instead, it was leaking from the rubber hose that's attached to the pump. Therefore, I don't think the too much fluid got on the alternator. At least I am keeping my fingers crossed at this point.
Gawd darn. I seriously have bad luck nowadays.
Jon
Wait.. are you suggesting that my PS pump has NOT failed then? Before I left the shop today, I actually had the guy lift up my car and drain my PS fluid from the bottom by starting up my car and cranking my wheels back and forth a few times. Then he sealed the bottom and added a new bottle of Toyota PS fluid in. The result was the same.
Don't tell me onelasttry. I would die if my alt. goes out on me. Judging from the way the fluid was leaking yesterday. It was NOT leaking from the pump itself. Instead, it was leaking from the rubber hose that's attached to the pump. Therefore, I don't think the too much fluid got on the alternator. At least I am keeping my fingers crossed at this point.
Gawd darn. I seriously have bad luck nowadays.
Jon
Originally posted by O. L. T.
Your a lawyer and your asking us what recourse you have?
The P/S pump will do that untill all the air from the system is bled out. turning the steering wheel all the way from left to right about 20 times, then taking a 10 minute break and doing it again will solve the problem as long as you repeat the steps roughly 5 times to get it bled clean of air pockets.
FYI it took three days for mine to completely clear up while i followed this procedure to amount to roughly 5 sessions a day. Though it may not be nessesary, i chose to remove the reservoir cap for about 10 minutes and let the air bubbles escape after i rotated the wheel back and forth then reinstalled it when ready to go again. Normal driving will not purge the pump and rack, full revolutions must be made to each direction to allow the rack to open completely up and close on each side.
Wish i could give you some good news, but your about to lose the alt also since you let the P/S drain into it driving home as well as the massive dump it got at the mechanics. SO start pricing alternators.
Your a lawyer and your asking us what recourse you have?
The P/S pump will do that untill all the air from the system is bled out. turning the steering wheel all the way from left to right about 20 times, then taking a 10 minute break and doing it again will solve the problem as long as you repeat the steps roughly 5 times to get it bled clean of air pockets.
FYI it took three days for mine to completely clear up while i followed this procedure to amount to roughly 5 sessions a day. Though it may not be nessesary, i chose to remove the reservoir cap for about 10 minutes and let the air bubbles escape after i rotated the wheel back and forth then reinstalled it when ready to go again. Normal driving will not purge the pump and rack, full revolutions must be made to each direction to allow the rack to open completely up and close on each side.
Wish i could give you some good news, but your about to lose the alt also since you let the P/S drain into it driving home as well as the massive dump it got at the mechanics. SO start pricing alternators.
10-09-03, 11:48 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Jimbo23.
Holy cow. I would definitely shoot myself if I had to spend more than $1k on PS pump. For God's sake I've only got two kidneys to sell. Sigh.
Thanks for your kind words and I hope this problem won't get any worse than it is.
sweetsc400
Thanks for your advices. Actually, I think I read somewhere on CL that it's actually easier to spin the 235/45/17 tires than the stock 225/55/16 tires. The reason is that somehow the 17 inchers are lighter?
I am not sure, the new tranny simply feels a lot smoother and silker. However, I just don't understand why the tranny is missing some of the ommphs for now.
Regards,
Jon
Holy cow. I would definitely shoot myself if I had to spend more than $1k on PS pump. For God's sake I've only got two kidneys to sell. Sigh.
Thanks for your kind words and I hope this problem won't get any worse than it is.
sweetsc400
Thanks for your advices. Actually, I think I read somewhere on CL that it's actually easier to spin the 235/45/17 tires than the stock 225/55/16 tires. The reason is that somehow the 17 inchers are lighter?
I am not sure, the new tranny simply feels a lot smoother and silker. However, I just don't understand why the tranny is missing some of the ommphs for now.
Regards,
Jon
10-09-03, 11:57 PM
#7
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Jon --
Maybe we should take the time to look on the bright side, your tranny is fixed and you seem to be happy with that part alone! It may be that 235/45/17s are easier to spin, but logic does point out that pilot sports are some pretty grippy tires, and they are 10mm (or whatever) wider. Just wouldn't want you jumping to any conclusions.
On a side note, is the new/used tranny noticeably smoother? Was your original tranny starting to shift rough? The reason I ask is that mine is starting to shift more firmly. And the other morning, when it was approximately 50 degrees or so, I started up the street when my car was cold and it slipped for half a second in first gear. I simply FREAKED (I'm about as picky as a car-owner could get, particularly about transmissions). I will admit, my dumba$$ made the common DM-III tranny refill mistake instead of the type T-IV. But, I flushed the system 3 times with T-IV. I'm just noticing these seemingly major quirks and am wondering what action, if any, I should take. Is it correct that the tranny and torque converter combined hold 9 quarts?
Anyway, good luck on your PS pump and alternator, sounds like you might be able to save them. I've got my fingers crossed for you!
Matt
Maybe we should take the time to look on the bright side, your tranny is fixed and you seem to be happy with that part alone! It may be that 235/45/17s are easier to spin, but logic does point out that pilot sports are some pretty grippy tires, and they are 10mm (or whatever) wider. Just wouldn't want you jumping to any conclusions.
On a side note, is the new/used tranny noticeably smoother? Was your original tranny starting to shift rough? The reason I ask is that mine is starting to shift more firmly. And the other morning, when it was approximately 50 degrees or so, I started up the street when my car was cold and it slipped for half a second in first gear. I simply FREAKED (I'm about as picky as a car-owner could get, particularly about transmissions). I will admit, my dumba$$ made the common DM-III tranny refill mistake instead of the type T-IV. But, I flushed the system 3 times with T-IV. I'm just noticing these seemingly major quirks and am wondering what action, if any, I should take. Is it correct that the tranny and torque converter combined hold 9 quarts?
Anyway, good luck on your PS pump and alternator, sounds like you might be able to save them. I've got my fingers crossed for you!
Matt
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10-10-03, 12:17 AM
#8
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I think so. Perhaps these tires are so grippy that I can't even spin them. 
Yes, the replacement tranny now shifts a lot smoother than my old unit. Before, my car would jerk suddenly if I shift the tranny out of gear when my car's cold. Even as my car got warmer, I could still feel the force of tranny downshifting as I slow down to a stop for redlights. The only thing that I like about my old tranny better is that it felt powerful, it's almost as if it had an aftermarket torque converter installed compared to my replacement unit.
As for my new tranny. I have no complaint about it so far. It shifts silky smooth and the power delivery is very liner. However, as I stated before the low end powerful seems a bit weaker compare to my old unit. But again, this could be caused by various variables such as grippier tires, different tranny unit, ECU, etc.
I am sorry, I do not know how many quarts of fluid the tranny holds....
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jon
Yes, the replacement tranny now shifts a lot smoother than my old unit. Before, my car would jerk suddenly if I shift the tranny out of gear when my car's cold. Even as my car got warmer, I could still feel the force of tranny downshifting as I slow down to a stop for redlights. The only thing that I like about my old tranny better is that it felt powerful, it's almost as if it had an aftermarket torque converter installed compared to my replacement unit.
As for my new tranny. I have no complaint about it so far. It shifts silky smooth and the power delivery is very liner. However, as I stated before the low end powerful seems a bit weaker compare to my old unit. But again, this could be caused by various variables such as grippier tires, different tranny unit, ECU, etc.
I am sorry, I do not know how many quarts of fluid the tranny holds....
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jon
Originally posted by sweetsc400
Jon --
Maybe we should take the time to look on the bright side, your tranny is fixed and you seem to be happy with that part alone! It may be that 235/45/17s are easier to spin, but logic does point out that pilot sports are some pretty grippy tires, and they are 10mm (or whatever) wider. Just wouldn't want you jumping to any conclusions.
On a side note, is the new/used tranny noticeably smoother? Was your original tranny starting to shift rough? The reason I ask is that mine is starting to shift more firmly. And the other morning, when it was approximately 50 degrees or so, I started up the street when my car was cold and it slipped for half a second in first gear. I simply FREAKED (I'm about as picky as a car-owner could get, particularly about transmissions). I will admit, my dumba$$ made the common DM-III tranny refill mistake instead of the type T-IV. But, I flushed the system 3 times with T-IV. I'm just noticing these seemingly major quirks and am wondering what action, if any, I should take. Is it correct that the tranny and torque converter combined hold 9 quarts?
Anyway, good luck on your PS pump and alternator, sounds like you might be able to save them. I've got my fingers crossed for you!
Matt
Jon --
Maybe we should take the time to look on the bright side, your tranny is fixed and you seem to be happy with that part alone! It may be that 235/45/17s are easier to spin, but logic does point out that pilot sports are some pretty grippy tires, and they are 10mm (or whatever) wider. Just wouldn't want you jumping to any conclusions.
On a side note, is the new/used tranny noticeably smoother? Was your original tranny starting to shift rough? The reason I ask is that mine is starting to shift more firmly. And the other morning, when it was approximately 50 degrees or so, I started up the street when my car was cold and it slipped for half a second in first gear. I simply FREAKED (I'm about as picky as a car-owner could get, particularly about transmissions). I will admit, my dumba$$ made the common DM-III tranny refill mistake instead of the type T-IV. But, I flushed the system 3 times with T-IV. I'm just noticing these seemingly major quirks and am wondering what action, if any, I should take. Is it correct that the tranny and torque converter combined hold 9 quarts?
Anyway, good luck on your PS pump and alternator, sounds like you might be able to save them. I've got my fingers crossed for you!
Matt
10-10-03, 12:18 AM
#9
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
it was leaking from the rubber hose that's attached to the pump.
10-10-03, 12:21 AM
#10
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
I think so. Perhaps these tires are so grippy that I can't even spin them.
My 318i has 245 / 45 / 17 dunlops (and they grip WELL) and is a 4 banger and there is a video in car chat of me lighting them up POSI-TRAC. Don't tell me that v-8 wont smoke them off the rims
Torque convertor may just not be locking hard enough.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 10-10-03 at 12:25 AM.
10-10-03, 12:29 AM
#11
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Trust me. It's one of the two rubber hoses that run from the PS pump toward the engine.
I saw the leak myself yesterday and as indicated in my thread, after the mechanic changed the hose, there was no more leaking. However, no more leaking means weird PS pump noise for me now.
As for the tire spinning. I'd never installed the Dragon torque converter on my car since this butt hole mounted the transmission before the torque converter arrived. So the car's basically running on the stock converter. The problem is, I could still lit up my 225/60/16ZR tires with my old tranny just a couple of weeks ago. Why is the replaced tranny not able to do the same to the 235/45/17 ones?
Hmmm... weird.
Jon
I saw the leak myself yesterday and as indicated in my thread, after the mechanic changed the hose, there was no more leaking. However, no more leaking means weird PS pump noise for me now.
As for the tire spinning. I'd never installed the Dragon torque converter on my car since this butt hole mounted the transmission before the torque converter arrived. So the car's basically running on the stock converter. The problem is, I could still lit up my 225/60/16ZR tires with my old tranny just a couple of weeks ago. Why is the replaced tranny not able to do the same to the 235/45/17 ones?
Hmmm... weird.
Jon
Originally posted by O. L. T.
actually it wasnt leaking from there either, just running down it. The leak on 85% of all PS pumps develops on the metal stainless mount on top of the PS pump. (which is what the hose is connected to) It has a O-ring grommet that can break inside the mount and it will be leak city from there.
actually it wasnt leaking from there either, just running down it. The leak on 85% of all PS pumps develops on the metal stainless mount on top of the PS pump. (which is what the hose is connected to) It has a O-ring grommet that can break inside the mount and it will be leak city from there.
10-10-03, 12:34 AM
#12
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
The only other variable besides the tires/transmission that caused my car not being able to spin the rear wheel is the recent oil change, which was performed just right before I first drove off the car yesterday.
The A hole mechanic said he's always put Napa 10W-30 motor oil for cars he services. I've never heard of this brand but he assured that that it's as good as all the other name brand motor oil out there. Could it be that the Napa oil is so cheap that it caused my engine to lose performance?
Jon
The A hole mechanic said he's always put Napa 10W-30 motor oil for cars he services. I've never heard of this brand but he assured that that it's as good as all the other name brand motor oil out there. Could it be that the Napa oil is so cheap that it caused my engine to lose performance?
Jon
10-10-03, 12:36 AM
#13
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
Na, oil's only job is to lubricate. You must realize that the torque convertor is the key to getting power down. something didnt go right with the install if he used your old one, and if he didnt, who knows what shape the new one is in?
10-10-03, 12:38 AM
#14
Lead Lap
Join Date: May 2003
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Not likely, there's not much power to be gained or lost over oil.
O.L.T. - Is your bimmer a 5 speed or automatic? Almost any manny tranny can smoke tires. It's amazing how different tires can affect a car.
O.L.T. - Is your bimmer a 5 speed or automatic? Almost any manny tranny can smoke tires. It's amazing how different tires can affect a car.
10-10-03, 12:39 AM
#15
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Crap. So I guess it's the torque converter? The mechanic used the torque converter that's already in the replacement tranny. He basically did the swap without taking the transmission apart.
That can't be though. If the torque has problems, my replacement tranny wouldn't have shifted so smoothly, would it?
Don't get me wrong, the power delivery is still there. However, it feels a lot linear and "mild" in the low end compare to my old unit.
Jon
That can't be though. If the torque has problems, my replacement tranny wouldn't have shifted so smoothly, would it?
Don't get me wrong, the power delivery is still there. However, it feels a lot linear and "mild" in the low end compare to my old unit.
Jon
Originally posted by O. L. T.
Na, oil's only job is to lubricate. You must realize that the torque convertor is the key to getting power down. something didnt go right with the install if he used your old one, and if he didnt, who knows what shape the new one is in?
Na, oil's only job is to lubricate. You must realize that the torque convertor is the key to getting power down. something didnt go right with the install if he used your old one, and if he didnt, who knows what shape the new one is in?