Quarter window mod part deux
#1
Quarter window mod part deux ** Updated w/ DIY**
First and foremost I must give credit where credit is due, Ken (hipendicul) was the first person who came up with the Idea and saw it through. He gave me all the info I needed, which included step by step instructions and a few tips and tricks which made my life much easier.
So once again a huge thanks goes out to Ken and Sevag (Sevyb) for all their help on this project.
Here is a few teaser pictures for now; I will have more pictures of the actual install up by this weekend.
Enjoy…
******DISCLAIMER*********
Do this mod at your own risk, there is no guarantee this mod will work and if you mess up and fry your electronics then I (lexiss_sc430), ken (hipendicular) or anyone else is not responsible.
Also a big thank you goes out to Ken (hipendicular), this was his creation!!
Now with that said, if you do it correctly then this mod should work flawlessly, I did mine months ago and have yet to have a problem.
GOOD LUCK!
If anyone has questions you can PM me,
Pictures are at the end…
Here is the relay I bought
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150158734934
YOU WILL NEED 2 RELAYS
Ok, now the wires for the rear quarter windows are as follows. There are 5 connectors on the top computer (the big computer off to the left of the trunk), A thru E with connector (A) being closest to the front of the car. The pin outs are a little tricky, so look for wire color and then check the pin out number to make sure you got the right wire.
The window wires are just slightly thicker than the smaller control wires but if I remember right, one of the windows motors has thicker wires for some strange reason. So left window is: Connector (E) pin # (7) color (Blk/Yel) and pin # (8) color Blk/Red. Right window is connector (D) pin # 3 color (Yel) and pin # 1 color (Blk).
The window wires should be either on top of each other or side by side.
Use common sense before cutting. I tried to cut the wires at least two inches away from the connector just in case. There really is no polarity on this whole system since, you can always reverse the relays or switch.
The power I used was from the package tray circuit. It’s a little harder to find than the window motors and double check to make sure you have the right circuit by pulling the fuse and measuring the voltage. This circuit is always powered so be careful. And lastly, you will need to replace the stock package tray circuit with atleast a 30amp fuse. I've used 30amp fuses on my car and the two other ones that I've done and so far so good. The package tray circuit is connector (C) pin
# (7) color (blu/Blk). And the ground I used for the windows was just
a one of the nuts that hold top computer.
Here is the wiring breakdown;
If you look at the relays you will see each terminal is numbered 1-14
Numbers 1 & 2 on relay 1 are inputs from the ecu side of motor # 1,9 & 10 are outputs of those wires from relay 1 Then those same wires go to # 1& 2 on relay 2 and then there output comes out the ends of # 9& 10 that you connect back into the wiring that goes to motor #1
Now window motor # 2’s wires goes into 3&4 and out of 11 & 12 on relay 1, then do the same input and output on relay # 2 when those wires come out of position 11 &12 from relay #2 they go back to the wiring for motor
#2
Now numbers 8,6 on relay 1 and 7,5 on relay 2 are power
Numbers 7 and 5 on relay 1 and 8 & 6 on relay 2 are grounds, then the ground swings from position # 6 on relay 2 to the backside of the switchboard to number 13 of relay 2 and 13 of relay 1.
Lastly, we wire the switch to posts #14 on relay 1 & 2
I wired my switch to my center console outlet, its a ***** to tap that wire as its really short and really down in the center console. If you want you can always find another circuit from the back but you will then need a three conductor wire vs a more standard two. Lastly, you can always send power to both sides of the switch and just ground the common but that’s more dangerous as it can lead to a short..
Before you go and wire everything up, make sure you have the right wires for the windows and you package tray power source (put in new fuse first). Ground one of the window wires and tap the package tray circuit to the other. You may see a spark but the window should move, if it doesn't release the power and reverse the polarity. Repeat for the other window.
Test this first as it will make trouble shooting a lot easier. If the windows go backwards with your switch, just turn the switch upside down or reverse the wires on the switch, do not reverse the wires on the relays. When you have the top computer disconnected, don't sweat that your front windows will not be one touch up or down, they will work again once the top computer is plugged back in and your top computer may trip out when you first get everything back together, don't panic, just hold the top close button down and it should reset, if not then you need to check your wiring.
Lastly, if you do get them working, don't drop the rear windows with out dropping the fronts or roll the rears up with the front windows up.
This will tear the molding and make the rear windows not seal right.
I've dropped the top with the rear windows down and so far the top computer doesn't seem to mind but I would roll them up just to be on the safe side.
Ok, that’s about all I can think of. Just take your time and make sure you use colored wires so you can easily see what 12v is and what ground is.
this should be your finished product
So once again a huge thanks goes out to Ken and Sevag (Sevyb) for all their help on this project.
Here is a few teaser pictures for now; I will have more pictures of the actual install up by this weekend.
Enjoy…
******DISCLAIMER*********
Do this mod at your own risk, there is no guarantee this mod will work and if you mess up and fry your electronics then I (lexiss_sc430), ken (hipendicular) or anyone else is not responsible.
Also a big thank you goes out to Ken (hipendicular), this was his creation!!
Now with that said, if you do it correctly then this mod should work flawlessly, I did mine months ago and have yet to have a problem.
GOOD LUCK!
If anyone has questions you can PM me,
Pictures are at the end…
Here is the relay I bought
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150158734934
YOU WILL NEED 2 RELAYS
Ok, now the wires for the rear quarter windows are as follows. There are 5 connectors on the top computer (the big computer off to the left of the trunk), A thru E with connector (A) being closest to the front of the car. The pin outs are a little tricky, so look for wire color and then check the pin out number to make sure you got the right wire.
The window wires are just slightly thicker than the smaller control wires but if I remember right, one of the windows motors has thicker wires for some strange reason. So left window is: Connector (E) pin # (7) color (Blk/Yel) and pin # (8) color Blk/Red. Right window is connector (D) pin # 3 color (Yel) and pin # 1 color (Blk).
The window wires should be either on top of each other or side by side.
Use common sense before cutting. I tried to cut the wires at least two inches away from the connector just in case. There really is no polarity on this whole system since, you can always reverse the relays or switch.
The power I used was from the package tray circuit. It’s a little harder to find than the window motors and double check to make sure you have the right circuit by pulling the fuse and measuring the voltage. This circuit is always powered so be careful. And lastly, you will need to replace the stock package tray circuit with atleast a 30amp fuse. I've used 30amp fuses on my car and the two other ones that I've done and so far so good. The package tray circuit is connector (C) pin
# (7) color (blu/Blk). And the ground I used for the windows was just
a one of the nuts that hold top computer.
Here is the wiring breakdown;
If you look at the relays you will see each terminal is numbered 1-14
Numbers 1 & 2 on relay 1 are inputs from the ecu side of motor # 1,9 & 10 are outputs of those wires from relay 1 Then those same wires go to # 1& 2 on relay 2 and then there output comes out the ends of # 9& 10 that you connect back into the wiring that goes to motor #1
Now window motor # 2’s wires goes into 3&4 and out of 11 & 12 on relay 1, then do the same input and output on relay # 2 when those wires come out of position 11 &12 from relay #2 they go back to the wiring for motor
#2
Now numbers 8,6 on relay 1 and 7,5 on relay 2 are power
Numbers 7 and 5 on relay 1 and 8 & 6 on relay 2 are grounds, then the ground swings from position # 6 on relay 2 to the backside of the switchboard to number 13 of relay 2 and 13 of relay 1.
Lastly, we wire the switch to posts #14 on relay 1 & 2
I wired my switch to my center console outlet, its a ***** to tap that wire as its really short and really down in the center console. If you want you can always find another circuit from the back but you will then need a three conductor wire vs a more standard two. Lastly, you can always send power to both sides of the switch and just ground the common but that’s more dangerous as it can lead to a short..
Before you go and wire everything up, make sure you have the right wires for the windows and you package tray power source (put in new fuse first). Ground one of the window wires and tap the package tray circuit to the other. You may see a spark but the window should move, if it doesn't release the power and reverse the polarity. Repeat for the other window.
Test this first as it will make trouble shooting a lot easier. If the windows go backwards with your switch, just turn the switch upside down or reverse the wires on the switch, do not reverse the wires on the relays. When you have the top computer disconnected, don't sweat that your front windows will not be one touch up or down, they will work again once the top computer is plugged back in and your top computer may trip out when you first get everything back together, don't panic, just hold the top close button down and it should reset, if not then you need to check your wiring.
Lastly, if you do get them working, don't drop the rear windows with out dropping the fronts or roll the rears up with the front windows up.
This will tear the molding and make the rear windows not seal right.
I've dropped the top with the rear windows down and so far the top computer doesn't seem to mind but I would roll them up just to be on the safe side.
Ok, that’s about all I can think of. Just take your time and make sure you use colored wires so you can easily see what 12v is and what ground is.
this should be your finished product
Last edited by Lexiss_sc430; 01-29-09 at 01:33 AM.
#4
I haven't really ever had the desire to roll the rear windows down while the top was up (to me, if it's nice enough to roll the windows down, it's nice enough to put the top down!) however, there have been times when I would have liked to roll the rear windows up (along with the front windows) when the top was down. Hopefully this mod allows both options.
I have the LuxLink unit (the one WITHOUT the rear-window controller). When I bought it, they offered me the one that gives you control of the rear windows. I declined, saying "Nahh...I'll never need that". Wish I had a second chance to answer that question.
I have the LuxLink unit (the one WITHOUT the rear-window controller). When I bought it, they offered me the one that gives you control of the rear windows. I declined, saying "Nahh...I'll never need that". Wish I had a second chance to answer that question.
#6
The method posted up earlier this week, which involves tapping the open top button, does not really work. Initially you have to manage it just right to get the windows to lower and the trunk to stay closed. Once you attempt to move the car a annoying beep takes over and does not stop until you reverse what you have done.
With this mod you will be able to roll up and down the windows at your own discretion and you will have no warning lights, beeps, or alerts from the car.
I haven't really ever had the desire to roll the rear windows down while the top was up (to me, if it's nice enough to roll the windows down, it's nice enough to put the top down!) however, there have been times when I would have liked to roll the rear windows up (along with the front windows) when the top was down. Hopefully this mod allows both options.
I have the LuxLink unit (the one WITHOUT the rear-window controller). When I bought it, they offered me the one that gives you control of the rear windows. I declined, saying "Nahh...I'll never need that". Wish I had a second chance to answer that question.
I have the LuxLink unit (the one WITHOUT the rear-window controller). When I bought it, they offered me the one that gives you control of the rear windows. I declined, saying "Nahh...I'll never need that". Wish I had a second chance to answer that question.
You can roll up or down the windows in any order you would like. The main reason I did it is the fact that the car looks so much “cleaner” when all 4 windows are down, there is a seamless transition when you look at the car from the side. Also the fact that when the top is down you are able to put all 4 windows up
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#9
Well I agree the car looks real nice with the top up and all windows down...kind of like a work of art!I also am thinking about this mod!
a newbee day dreamin about the best car around....
a newbee day dreamin about the best car around....
#11
I believe the LuxLink rear window system is just a re-branded "automatic window roll up/down" module which are usually used to add on to many alarm systems to roll-up the windows when the alarm is armed. Most of these systems also provide for "one touch" operation from the factory switches, for those cars which don't have that feature.
Of course, the SC430 not only doesn't have the "one touch" for the rear windows, it has no control at all!! So these modules add that.
Here's a cut/paste from one of the many units which handle this:
530T Power Window Roll-up/Down
Integrate factory power windows with your security system, for convenient remote control operation. Roll up windows upon arming, or use an auxiliary channel to roll down or vent the windows. This unit will automate the factory windows to Express (One Touch) both up and down or stop anywhere in between. Uses the Factory power window switches. The updated version now includes adjustable resistance dipswitches to compensate for different type of vehicles that uses very efficient or inefficient windows.
P.S. Habious, if you want to try this on your car, I'll buy the beer!
Of course, the SC430 not only doesn't have the "one touch" for the rear windows, it has no control at all!! So these modules add that.
Here's a cut/paste from one of the many units which handle this:
530T Power Window Roll-up/Down
Integrate factory power windows with your security system, for convenient remote control operation. Roll up windows upon arming, or use an auxiliary channel to roll down or vent the windows. This unit will automate the factory windows to Express (One Touch) both up and down or stop anywhere in between. Uses the Factory power window switches. The updated version now includes adjustable resistance dipswitches to compensate for different type of vehicles that uses very efficient or inefficient windows.
P.S. Habious, if you want to try this on your car, I'll buy the beer!
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bubblebutt (03-16-23)
#14
This mod isn't for everyone but from the day I got my car till the day I did the mod, I've wanted to drop the rear windows so bad..
I use my rear windows pretty much everytime I drive the car. I jump in and with one hand drop the fronts and with my other drop the rears. Its kinda like getting used to hitting the "Agree" button on the nav, it becomes a ritual...
But good work Tommy.. it takes some ***** to rip into a $1200 top computer but trust me, its 100% solid and by far my favorite mod to my SC.. Can't wait to see it at the next meet (if there is one..)
Oh and here's a pic of Dan K's car next to mine at last years meet... I think it totally changes the look of the SC..
I use my rear windows pretty much everytime I drive the car. I jump in and with one hand drop the fronts and with my other drop the rears. Its kinda like getting used to hitting the "Agree" button on the nav, it becomes a ritual...
But good work Tommy.. it takes some ***** to rip into a $1200 top computer but trust me, its 100% solid and by far my favorite mod to my SC.. Can't wait to see it at the next meet (if there is one..)
Oh and here's a pic of Dan K's car next to mine at last years meet... I think it totally changes the look of the SC..
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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I believe the LuxLink rear window system is just a re-branded "automatic window roll up/down" module which are usually used to add on to many alarm systems to roll-up the windows when the alarm is armed. Most of these systems also provide for "one touch" operation from the factory switches, for those cars which don't have that feature.
Of course, the SC430 not only doesn't have the "one touch" for the rear windows, it has no control at all!! So these modules add that.
Here's a cut/paste from one of the many units which handle this:
530T Power Window Roll-up/Down
Integrate factory power windows with your security system, for convenient remote control operation. Roll up windows upon arming, or use an auxiliary channel to roll down or vent the windows. This unit will automate the factory windows to Express (One Touch) both up and down or stop anywhere in between. Uses the Factory power window switches. The updated version now includes adjustable resistance dipswitches to compensate for different type of vehicles that uses very efficient or inefficient windows.
P.S. Habious, if you want to try this on your car, I'll buy the beer!
Of course, the SC430 not only doesn't have the "one touch" for the rear windows, it has no control at all!! So these modules add that.
Here's a cut/paste from one of the many units which handle this:
530T Power Window Roll-up/Down
Integrate factory power windows with your security system, for convenient remote control operation. Roll up windows upon arming, or use an auxiliary channel to roll down or vent the windows. This unit will automate the factory windows to Express (One Touch) both up and down or stop anywhere in between. Uses the Factory power window switches. The updated version now includes adjustable resistance dipswitches to compensate for different type of vehicles that uses very efficient or inefficient windows.
P.S. Habious, if you want to try this on your car, I'll buy the beer!