tungitek

HI,

I need the speaker wire diagram for lexus 2006 sc430. I am trying to install a line out converter behind the radio head unit. I have search several places that say line level wires (green/red) for left speaker and (black/white) for right speaker. I'd tapped my line converter device into these but is not getting any signal. I really don't want to install the line converter at the amp that's in the trunk because i would have to run an RCA line to the front. The reason i need the line-out at the front is because i'm installing an Equalizer. Thanks alot.

Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise i would have to follow this thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html and use the pink L+,purple L-,
green R+,blue R-.

tungitek

So far my project has been doing ok. Thought i would share it with the folks here, who knows one might be crazy and take on this project like myself.

I took apart a pioneer deq-7600 and is installing it at the bottom of the radio head unit. Take a look at few of the pictures i have. It's almost done, i just need to get some signal into it.

I'm running the 8" pioneer shallow subwoofers for sure and thinking the two front 6X9s w/ a 4ch amp. I'm still uncertain which color wire goes directly to the 6X9 though. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

tungitek

VVTiBob

Go to this thread where I posted it earlier this year. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...gger-wire.html

cjs18

According to the wiring diagram the line level outputs should be R/G and B/W as you note above (the 4 wires described as shielded in the diagram). Note that the green and white are noted as (-) but that may not be signal ground. If you think you're not getting anything on those lines you might recheck with an oscilloscope or another high impedance instrument if you have access to one. Or you might also verify by restoring the connections to original condition to be sure everything is still working. Then you can work stepwise to determine compatibility with your other components. You might do your connections a channel at a time to make sure you know what's working. The ML system is more complicated (and likely less "standard") than a lot of car audio systems and unfortunately this can lead to problems. Make sure any active component you add is powered and fused correctly.

Also regarding non-standard aspects of this system - I'm sure you've read that thread with the table that lists the impedances of the stock ML speakers. If I recall correctly none of them is less than 8 ohms. If you use lower impedance speakers you will risk developing more power than the amp can handle. Just a thought or two. Good luck with your project.

tungitek

Thanks VVTiBob!!! and cjs18, i'm aware of the difference in ohms. Thanks alot guys. Will put some finished picture up later.

Habious

Yikes!

Arcy Sparky!

cjs18

Argh. Probably not so much a warranty issue, eh? I don't envy you trying to repair that SMT board. Looks like a DEQ-7600 - maybe you can find a shop with a manual that can do board level repair on it for you. They've been making that unit for quite a few years so some should be familiar with it. Hope it's reasonable to repair.

Habious

Those surface-mount components are a PITA to repair/replace without dedicated equipment. I've done it with just a standard soldering station, but lord...SOOO much easier with a PACE SMT kit or something along those lines!

Harold57

Boy Habious, you got that right. When I was younger and had good eyes, components were large and easy to see. Now that I'm older and my reading eyesight is waning, they are using components that are literally smaller than the black pepper flakes from a pepper shaker.

Just doing a repair to this board may not fix it as another component going out may have caused the burnout. But it will be a start. Hopefully it was just caused by a power spike. So keep your eyes open for other issues around the board or in the system hookup (loose or charcoaled connectors, potential mounting shorts, etc.).

tungitek

Hello fellow Lexus owners,

I'm following up on the project i started couple weeks ago and was postpone due to technical difficulty.
I'm happy to share with you that's it's now sucessfully installed and operating very well.
I'm posting more pictures to show you what i'd done. I ended up buying a new EQ and the MTX reQ for line-out converters.


This is a picture of the powered button to open/close of the head unit door. Since i removed the ashtray and cigarette lighter that contains the holder for this button; i had to improvised. What i did was patch a little acrylic to both sides as pictured. Works fine.



This is a picture of me trying to cover up any metal contacts that might interact with the bare board i'm about to put there. The plug in the middle there is for head unit door. The one on the left is the power to my EQ.


Finally all installed. Here's a picture of the EQ working. If i had liked the Pioneer EQ 9200 or other brands that has the facemask extensions i woulda save myself a whole lot of work. But i love the display of the DEQ 7600 so much it's worth the trouble. I hope it help somebody out there.



Now im working on putting a buttkicker in the glove compartment. I cant seem to open the compartment fully though. I can run wires through the opening of the trunk release but problem i'm facing is i cant open the cabinet to see if there are wires underneath or not. Anybody know? please help out .Otherwise i might just screw the thing down and leave it be. LOL Thanks guys for commenting.





P.S. To confirm some of the wirings i figured out: red/green and black/white are line level output speaker wires directly behind head unit. white/red is power, white/black is ground, green/double stripe gray is illumination, solid gray is remote. This is of a 2006 Lexus SC430.

tungitek

I recently blew my Pioneer TS-SW841D, went and bought me a JL 8W3V3 4ohm version and the magnet was too big. To solve that i made a 3/4 inch thick ring and finished installing it today. So for those who wonder what's a good sub to replace the stock and struggling with the fittings; the answer is JL 8W3V3 as of right now.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

S1 Soarer

JL Audio's a good choice. What are your thoughts about the 8W3V3? Is that a free air sub or enclosed?

vietpr1nce

iTrader: (2)

From the picutes, it has to be free air. How does it sound?

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

JL is the best IMO...this mod is crucial for audiophiles in the SC.

How about headrest speakers next? 1" JL's in the headrest with custom cutout!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-ZR100-C...item53e5964664