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I have searched this forum and found no mention of this problem.
Upon startup, I have no power to any of my tach, speedo, odometer, fuel or temp guages. My turn signal indicator is the only thing that lights up when driving.
Turning on the low beams does give me the green "lights on" indicator. My running lights, headlights and fog lights all are functioning. (Not shown, the blue high beam indicator does light, when high beams are activated.)
Whether at rest, or driving, I have no instruments. These pictures were taken at 20 mph. The first time this happened, I did not notice until I came to a school zone and realized that I had no speed indicated. Upon restarting the car, the gauges came back to life.
The failure became intermittent, but the instruments have not worked for over a month. Is this a power or ground problem, and where would I look to fix it?
Many thanks,
Thomas in Texas
I have searched this forum and found no mention of this problem.
Upon startup, I have no power to any of my tach, speedo, odometer, fuel or temp guages. My turn signal indicator is the only thing that lights up when driving.
Turning on the low beams does give me the green "lights on" indicator. My running lights, headlights and fog lights all are functioning. (Not shown, the blue high beam indicator does light, when high beams are activated.)
Whether at rest, or driving, I have no instruments. These pictures were taken at 20 mph. The first time this happened, I did not notice until I came to a school zone and realized that I had no speed indicated. Upon restarting the car, the gauges came back to life.
The failure became intermittent, but the instruments have not worked for over a month. Is this a power or ground problem, and where would I look to fix it?
Many thanks,
Thomas in Texas
Yuu did not look very close its all over the lexas sites there is a bad solder joint in th power circuit on the instrument cluster solution is replace it with on from junk yard or new both will reset the odometer new is expensive used is under $100 then repair the old one by reflowing all the solder joints on the power circuit. probably the first two replace it and the odometer is back to near correct
I had this happen after I changed the alternator w/o disconnecting the battery. Look at fuses/fusible link under the hood near the battery. Mine was visibly blown. $13 fix for 140 amp fuse/fusible link.
There is a switch that changes the brightness of your instrument cluster on the left hand side of your steering wheel. It most likely is a rheostat (but I am guessing) It is possible that is going bad and is either all the way on or all the way off. You can turn it up nd down and see if there is any change. If not, I am not sure how you would check that, other than taking out the switch and assuming Lexus would have a "Lights on Default"
Yes. Usually you an look at them and the wire will be burned in half. But you can measure continuity from end to end...probably OK... Then clean the wiping surface and the wiper and check continuity.
Yes. Usually you an look at them and the wire will be burned in half. But you can measure continuity from end to end...probably OK... Then clean the wiping surface and the wiper and check continuity.
Its almost as much work to get to that rheostat as it is to remove the cluster so might ad well remove the cluster and fix it....LOL