Requesting SRT Intake Installation Help
#1
Lexus Test Driver
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I just got my SRT Intake link using the "Group Buy" From Carson Toyota. I could use some help with the installation. Some basic guidelines or photos would be most helpful. It comes with instructions that seem pretty strait forward. I would like to get some tips from someone who has done it. Thanks!
#2
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I really doubt the intake would be hard to install. If you lived in south florida I would come by and help you out. Hey by the way I heard that you need to wire the ecu differently I would PM lee about that. Also do you think you could take a picture of the ecu before you install it. I wanna see what it looks like.
-Tony
-Tony
#5
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Originally Posted by tonydt1g3r
I really doubt the intake would be hard to install. If you lived in south florida I would come by and help you out. Hey by the way I heard that you need to wire the ecu differently I would PM lee about that. Also do you think you could take a picture of the ecu before you install it. I wanna see what it looks like.
-Tony
-Tony
#7
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OK, this is what I came up with. SRT is not involved in this wiring diagram. I am not sure of anyone else that installed this on a SC430. This is slightly different than the GS430 diagrams out there and late model GS300 diagrams that I have seen. Do not use the SRT instructions as they are wrong unless they corrected them recently. Compare this with the one that came with your intake. Either way, the one below is the correct wiring. Take your time wiring. Double check everything to avoid damaging the ECU.
Make sure battery is unplugged during this install. Once plugged in make sure no ENGINE CHECK light comes on. Test drive. It will take at least 50 miles for the computer to adjust to the new ECU and intake.
Lee
![](http://www.tundraworld.com/SC430/SRTwiring.jpg)
Here is where I put the ECU. The common location is up on top above the wires, however I prefer it tucked underneath to avoid any pushing on the wires while the cover is on. Less stress on the wires if tucked underneath. Either area is fine.
Make sure battery is unplugged during this install. Once plugged in make sure no ENGINE CHECK light comes on. Test drive. It will take at least 50 miles for the computer to adjust to the new ECU and intake.
Lee
![](http://www.tundraworld.com/SC430/SRTwiring.jpg)
Here is where I put the ECU. The common location is up on top above the wires, however I prefer it tucked underneath to avoid any pushing on the wires while the cover is on. Less stress on the wires if tucked underneath. Either area is fine.
![](http://www.tundraworld.com/SC430/ECUSRT.jpg)
Last edited by Pearlpower; 01-30-06 at 11:22 PM.
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#8
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I was looking at the Service Manual, matching the pinouts on the Engine Control Module. Trying to confirm the correct pins / wire colors. I will go by your recomendation. Many thanks to you Lee, as always!
Here are some pics of the ECU.
![](http://www.sanfordhelpdesk.com/SRT-ECU_2.jpg)
I put it on a CD Case for size reference.
Here are some pics of the ECU.
![](http://www.sanfordhelpdesk.com/SRT-ECU_2.jpg)
I put it on a CD Case for size reference.
![](http://www.sanfordhelpdesk.com/SRT-ECU_1.jpg)
#9
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anyone open up that plastic case yet? I am just wondering if what I suspect is true. Which is there is an EEPROM in there with some logic programmed on the chip to throw in more fuel by adjusting the sensor reading inputs. I guess my engineering side is comin out
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#10
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Questions for Lee...
Wiring;
Did you un-bundle the factory wire sets and then re-bundle them after the procedure?
Did you twist the wires togeter?
Did you lay them side by side or across each other?
Did you solder the wires?
What do you suggest as the most reliable method.
Alterations;
Did you have to modify the front of the engine cover to accomodate the intake?
Did you try to modify the heat shield to fit the SC?
Hoses;
Are there 2 hoses to reconnect or 3 hoses? (The SC430 Service Manual shows 3 hoses conected to the Air Reservoir; 1)P/S Hose, 2)CCV Hose, 3)PCV Hose) I Think
Wiring;
Did you un-bundle the factory wire sets and then re-bundle them after the procedure?
Did you twist the wires togeter?
Did you lay them side by side or across each other?
Did you solder the wires?
What do you suggest as the most reliable method.
Alterations;
Did you have to modify the front of the engine cover to accomodate the intake?
Did you try to modify the heat shield to fit the SC?
Hoses;
Are there 2 hoses to reconnect or 3 hoses? (The SC430 Service Manual shows 3 hoses conected to the Air Reservoir; 1)P/S Hose, 2)CCV Hose, 3)PCV Hose) I Think
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#11
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I would never twist the wires together. I guess thats my EE side. Anyways soldering is always reccomended but being lazy like I am I never do it. If your one of those perfectionist then solder away
I use T taps. you know those red and blue ones you can buy at walmart and home depot that allow you to tap a wire without cutting it and add another wire to it. Use these for the connections in the diagram where it tells you to tap the wires.
For the sensor where you need to cut it completely I would use butt connectors.
Again soldering is best but this is a good alternative.
If you cant get the the wires without unbundling them then guess what unbundle them. Then bundle them back when your done
I would probally unbundle them anyways just so you can make sure you tapping the right wire.
Dont think the heat shield works at all, got to buy one somewhere else.
I think other intakes I seen only use 2 hoses.
Sorry if I am not Lee, but I hope this will help answer some questions until he gets a chance to reply.
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I use T taps. you know those red and blue ones you can buy at walmart and home depot that allow you to tap a wire without cutting it and add another wire to it. Use these for the connections in the diagram where it tells you to tap the wires.
For the sensor where you need to cut it completely I would use butt connectors.
Again soldering is best but this is a good alternative.
If you cant get the the wires without unbundling them then guess what unbundle them. Then bundle them back when your done
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Dont think the heat shield works at all, got to buy one somewhere else.
I think other intakes I seen only use 2 hoses.
Sorry if I am not Lee, but I hope this will help answer some questions until he gets a chance to reply.
#12
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@tonydt1g3r
well - i think it will stop the ECU from pumping more fuel through the injectors - thus you will get more power...
Which is there is an EEPROM in there with some logic programmed on the chip to throw in more fuel by adjusting the sensor reading inputs
#14
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Originally Posted by powmax
@tonydt1g3r
well - i think it will stop the ECU from pumping more fuel through the injectors - thus you will get more power...
well - i think it will stop the ECU from pumping more fuel through the injectors - thus you will get more power...
really? less fuel? but intake adds more air so shouldnt there be more fuel thrown in?
#15
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Yes it should - and this is what the LEXUS ECU is doing when it sees more air through the AFM... but to get more power (one way) of an engine you have to lean it - but this is a dangeours playfield, unless you don't know what you are doing...