Mid-range & Bass Speakers in Doors Replaced
08-07-07, 01:21 PM
#16
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EJC ...
You quoted the wrong guy - I don't have a problem with my speakers, but I see you have an 1800S.
Here's my Volvo P1800S that I bought new in 1964 for $3,995 (a princely sum at the time) and drove for five years. What a car!
I don't know if it was the car that attracted the gals or the fact that I was not yet 30 and my sweater still wrinkled when I sat down. Good times. Good times.
You quoted the wrong guy - I don't have a problem with my speakers, but I see you have an 1800S.
Here's my Volvo P1800S that I bought new in 1964 for $3,995 (a princely sum at the time) and drove for five years. What a car!
I don't know if it was the car that attracted the gals or the fact that I was not yet 30 and my sweater still wrinkled when I sat down. Good times. Good times.
I picked mine up in1987 and did a rolling restoration.
car is red with Black leather
just started redoing the speakers over the weekend.
08-07-07, 02:04 PM
#17
>Always liked those Bull Horn bumpers.<
The only problem being people who parallel parked by sound. Those bull horns would be pushed up against the grille frame leaving sizable dimples.
My car came without a radio - had to install the radio, antenna, and speakers myself. I recall installing a Blaupunkt - highly regarded brand back then.
>car is red with Black leather<
In '64, they offered four colors, white, grey, black, and red. The first three came with red leather which I abhor. The red came with black leather, so red it was.
Any pics of your restored 1800S?
The only problem being people who parallel parked by sound. Those bull horns would be pushed up against the grille frame leaving sizable dimples.
My car came without a radio - had to install the radio, antenna, and speakers myself. I recall installing a Blaupunkt - highly regarded brand back then.
>car is red with Black leather<
In '64, they offered four colors, white, grey, black, and red. The first three came with red leather which I abhor. The red came with black leather, so red it was.
Any pics of your restored 1800S?
08-07-07, 04:22 PM
#18
Instructor
>Always liked those Bull Horn bumpers.<
The only problem being people who parallel parked by sound. Those bull horns would be pushed up against the grille frame leaving sizable dimples.
My car came without a radio - had to install the radio, antenna, and speakers myself. I recall installing a Blaupunkt - highly regarded brand back then.
>car is red with Black leather<
In '64, they offered four colors, white, grey, black, and red. The first three came with red leather which I abhor. The red came with black leather, so red it was.
Any pics of your restored 1800S?
The only problem being people who parallel parked by sound. Those bull horns would be pushed up against the grille frame leaving sizable dimples.
My car came without a radio - had to install the radio, antenna, and speakers myself. I recall installing a Blaupunkt - highly regarded brand back then.
>car is red with Black leather<
In '64, they offered four colors, white, grey, black, and red. The first three came with red leather which I abhor. The red came with black leather, so red it was.
Any pics of your restored 1800S?
Color is a Toyota metallic red and I had the wheels painted to match.
It came with the original radio and I installed a Kenwood front end with a Kenwood eq that fit in the ashtray slot. 3 power amps and 6 speakers plus sub
08-11-07, 05:29 PM
#19
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You can pm sewell lexus or carson toyota (both CL vendors here) to see if they can match or even beat the price.
If none of them can give you a better deal, I'll tell you where to order it.
That $153 doesn't include shipping,tax and installation fees.
You might fix the woofer by simply using the speaker glue or send it to a speaker repair shop so you can save some money.
If none of them can give you a better deal, I'll tell you where to order it.
That $153 doesn't include shipping,tax and installation fees.
You might fix the woofer by simply using the speaker glue or send it to a speaker repair shop so you can save some money.
I repaired it this morning with glue and it's working like new again. I didn't have speaker glue so I used rubber cement. Lots of coats applied with a Q-tip.
From now on, I will keep speaker glue on hand - You can't beat six dollars to fix a $300 problem. Here's one source: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=340-076)
08-12-07, 06:11 AM
#21
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EJC ...
You quoted the wrong guy - I don't have a problem with my speakers, but I see you have an 1800S.
Here's my Volvo P1800S that I bought new in 1964 for $3,995 (a princely sum at the time) and drove for five years. What a car!
I don't know if it was the car that attracted the gals or the fact that I was not yet 30 and my sweater still wrinkled when I sat down. Good times. Good times.
You quoted the wrong guy - I don't have a problem with my speakers, but I see you have an 1800S.
Here's my Volvo P1800S that I bought new in 1964 for $3,995 (a princely sum at the time) and drove for five years. What a car!
I don't know if it was the car that attracted the gals or the fact that I was not yet 30 and my sweater still wrinkled when I sat down. Good times. Good times.
I had that car too, same color. Unfortunately it met a fairly large tree trunk on a very curvy road but it was a great car.
BT
08-12-07, 06:28 AM
#22
Instructor
Simon Templar had
a white 1800. I believe a '64.
He got it when Jaguar refused to give the show an E-Type.
He got it when Jaguar refused to give the show an E-Type.
08-17-07, 05:21 PM
#23
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The front driver side woofer, my rear passenger side mid range, and now the 8" subwoofer in the back have all gone bad on me. The ML speakers aren't very remarkable at all. They are only 8ohm paper cone speakers with a thin foam surround.The first to go on these speakers are the foam surround. The foam surround deteriorates until it completely separates, causing a popping sound. There is no repair for this, only replacing the speakers will fix the popping. If you wanted to replace the speakers with after-market ones, then any 8ohm ENTRY level speaker will work without damaging the Factory ML amplifier.
08-18-07, 05:41 PM
#25
The front driver side woofer, my rear passenger side mid range, and now the 8" subwoofer in the back have all gone bad on me. The ML speakers aren't very remarkable at all. They are only 8ohm paper cone speakers with a thin foam surround.The first to go on these speakers are the foam surround. The foam surround deteriorates until it completely separates, causing a popping sound. There is no repair for this, only replacing the speakers will fix the popping. If you wanted to replace the speakers with after-market ones, then any 8ohm ENTRY level speaker will work without damaging the Factory ML amplifier.
Just google it and you should find many speaker repair kits are out there. Some shops also perform the real repair service instead of selling you the new speakers.
12-14-07, 02:40 PM
#28
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Speaker Repair
I just reinstalled my door woofers after having the SpeakerDoctor redo the foam. Great Job! Sounds just like new.
The speakers are easy to remove. The door panels need not to come completely off. Just remove the 2 main screws (one under the door armrest and the other under the window switch panel), 3 screws under the lower inside gasket, 2 trim retainers in the upper inside door, one rubber bumper on door jam, and finally one screw in the oval door switch plate.
KEY to window switch panel release is to push a thin blunt tool, such as a 7 in 1 painters tool, in and down on the rear of the panel (left looking at the driver side switch panel). The switch panel is held in with a flat spring retainer about 3/4 inch wide. Lift left side up and out. One of the main retainer screws will be visable.
Using the 7 in 1 tool - Start from the lower inside progressing to the lower outside pry off the lower area of the door panel. 2 indexing retainers inside the door will release the lower area of the door with a mild pop. Dont force, it will pull out.
Use the 7 in 1 tool, prop the lower panel out to view the speaker. You dont need to remove the brass colored bolts holding the speaker housing area. Speakers are held with a clutch head screw probably obscured by the foam surrounding the outer area. Feel for the head. Standard 6 by 9 holding pattern. Speaker will unplug. Send to Speaker doctor. They charged me 63.50 to repair and ship back. Took 2 weeks.
WELL WORTH THE EFFORT - DEALER PRICE IS 650 A DOOR TO REPLACE- 63.50 VS $1300 - NOT A BAD 3 HOURS WORK.
The speakers are easy to remove. The door panels need not to come completely off. Just remove the 2 main screws (one under the door armrest and the other under the window switch panel), 3 screws under the lower inside gasket, 2 trim retainers in the upper inside door, one rubber bumper on door jam, and finally one screw in the oval door switch plate.
KEY to window switch panel release is to push a thin blunt tool, such as a 7 in 1 painters tool, in and down on the rear of the panel (left looking at the driver side switch panel). The switch panel is held in with a flat spring retainer about 3/4 inch wide. Lift left side up and out. One of the main retainer screws will be visable.
Using the 7 in 1 tool - Start from the lower inside progressing to the lower outside pry off the lower area of the door panel. 2 indexing retainers inside the door will release the lower area of the door with a mild pop. Dont force, it will pull out.
Use the 7 in 1 tool, prop the lower panel out to view the speaker. You dont need to remove the brass colored bolts holding the speaker housing area. Speakers are held with a clutch head screw probably obscured by the foam surrounding the outer area. Feel for the head. Standard 6 by 9 holding pattern. Speaker will unplug. Send to Speaker doctor. They charged me 63.50 to repair and ship back. Took 2 weeks.
WELL WORTH THE EFFORT - DEALER PRICE IS 650 A DOOR TO REPLACE- 63.50 VS $1300 - NOT A BAD 3 HOURS WORK.
01-14-08, 10:35 AM
#29
add another car to the speaker saga. My driver's side woofer sounds like it is blown. Looks like either a DIY or a replacement speaker from a 'reputable speaker manufacturer'. These ML speakers do look cheap and certainly cannot handle any sound levels that will let you enjoy Jazz, Rap, Dance, or other bass sounds. I'm pretty disappointed by this quality.
01-19-08, 05:31 PM
#30
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My '02 SC430 had the same problem: the driver side bottom speaker started distorting and growling badly. Not knowing whether it was the amplifier or the speaker, after getting the speaker out, I tested on the bench using an old boombox stereo. Sure enough, it was the speaker. The problem is that the speaker cone or suspension must be aging and shrinking unevenly, maybe with heat. This is pulling the voice coil off-center of the magnet in the center, and resulting in the voice coil scraping against the side of the magnet - the gap is pretty small and any slight off centering will screw up the sound.
So ok, the speaker is no good, but, if you have the same problem, you will find that pushing sideways against the voice coil in the center will either improve or degrade the sound further. If you push sideways far enough, you will find the distortion clears (apart from being muffled by the presence of your finger). If you can determine which direction the coil needs to move to recenter it, I found that it is possible to effect a repair by the careful application of a hammer to the magnet and frame assembly. Resting the speaker on the bench, while still playing it from a suitable source, try whacking the magnet in the opposite direction to where you found pushing the voice coil improved the performance.
This is trial and error, and by no means guaranteed for success, but I found it was possible to make 'careful adjustments'
with a lump hammer until the sound was clear again. I did this a couple of months ago, and the speaker is still sounding fine. I wouldn't claim to have restored it to perfect condition, but as far as I can tell, its fine.
This is a last ditch fix: only do it if you're prepared to throw the speaker away if it doesn't work!
So ok, the speaker is no good, but, if you have the same problem, you will find that pushing sideways against the voice coil in the center will either improve or degrade the sound further. If you push sideways far enough, you will find the distortion clears (apart from being muffled by the presence of your finger). If you can determine which direction the coil needs to move to recenter it, I found that it is possible to effect a repair by the careful application of a hammer to the magnet and frame assembly. Resting the speaker on the bench, while still playing it from a suitable source, try whacking the magnet in the opposite direction to where you found pushing the voice coil improved the performance.
This is trial and error, and by no means guaranteed for success, but I found it was possible to make 'careful adjustments'
with a lump hammer until the sound was clear again. I did this a couple of months ago, and the speaker is still sounding fine. I wouldn't claim to have restored it to perfect condition, but as far as I can tell, its fine.This is a last ditch fix: only do it if you're prepared to throw the speaker away if it doesn't work!
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sadiqtt
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08-29-18 07:33 AM
