tonydt1g3r

Anyways I went to go change out my rear rotors took off the caliper and went to pull the disk off but for some reason it wasnt coming off like the fronts. The fronts were free floating. Upon further examination it looks like the hub is apart of the disk and there is an axle key that I need to remove in order to get the disk off. The rotors I got are free floating and dont require anything like that. Are my eyes decieving me? did the rotor just rust itself onto the hub? Can someone tell me if the rear rotors are free floating or if I need to take out the axle key to get the disk off? I am confused

Pearlpower

iTrader: (2)

Hi Tony

It comes right off but often times the rotor will be seized on the hub to small degree. First thing is to ensure that the parking brake is off. If it does not come off using a left/right twisting motion (never pull straight out or risk bending the shoe retaining pin), use a bolt. There are two holes for a 6mm bolt on the rotor itself. Put one bolt in a hole (does not matter which) and use a ratchet to screw in the bolt. It should not take more than a 1/2" before the rotor moves/breaks. You may have to alternate holes. One you hear it break, then use the twisting motion. Should come right off.

LexLaw

Not to Hijack but...I've been hearing awful squealing from the wheels (primarily the rear?). I changed my brakes months ago but continue to hear this damn sound. However whenever I spray with break cleaner the sound ceases...temporarirly. Guys please help I'm kinda ignorant regarding this.

Someone suggested that I use brake pad covers to minimize the dust. How often does one need to replace rotors?

hipendicul

You probably just need new shims for your brake pads. Toyota is kinda cheap as they are a different part number and are usually not included with the brake pads. If you bought aftermarket ones and new shims were included, try that blue glue looking stuff you can get at autoparts store called brake-quiet or something like that. Coat both sides of the shims wait a bit and then just reinstall the pads/shims.

Also, certain pads that are street/race and race compounds just make noise, some make grinding noises and others just squeal. But try that blue stuff before you blame the pads.

LexLaw

Thanx man. I actually have some aftermarket pads and they did give me some blue stuff if I recall. My trusted mechanic is unsure of the squealing also. He thinks its the racy pads like you suggested. BTW what are shims or what is their purpose? What do you know about pad covers? Thanx again

tonydt1g3r

thanks lee!

The shims are the metal plates that come in contact with your brake pads. but some lube up in there you should be good

hipendicul

Ditto... The shims are there to keep the pads from resonating (AKA Squeal), and the last toyota shims I bought (again this was for a 93 MR2 in 96), the toyota shims were coated in a rubberized coating and were not included with the pads (cheap toyota). Most aftermaket pads now come with shims that have adhesive and you stick them to the pads, which work best but I still use tons of that blue stuff on the other side as I can't deal with brake squeal.

On my BMW, I bought a set of BBKs for the fronts and I ended up changing out the pads that came with it (Hawk HP+) for a less agressive pad. After calling the mfg of the BBK, they said that those pads will do that but after they warm up, it goes away. Unacceptable... So if all else fails, try performance friction CarbonMetallics as they are super quiet and last for ever (plus they don't even fade with track use).

Good luck and sorry for the thread hijack..

LexLaw

Thanx again guys!! I will get on that. Sorry again for the Hijack Tony. Good looking out as always.

Pearlpower

iTrader: (2)

Tony
Shoot me an email, I have something for you.
Lee