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I was having off-and-on issues with my headlight level system as well.
Every time I did work on the car (I track my sc430, so often), it would act up.
It's super easy. First, make sure your headlamps are connected at the lamp. Check that behind the lamp every plug has a connector. Simply turn on your car and see if the headlights move up before dropping down.
Next, get your car on stands and remove your headlight level sensors. There's just a couple 10mm bolt heads. Put the bolts back in place if you plan to drive the car around while doing the repair. The clip can be a pita but just depress the push part with a flat head and keep wiggling and gently prying.
On the rear sensor, check the resistance between the middle prong and the outer prongs. As you are measuring, articulate the arms. Resistance should change smoothly. If it doesn't, bad sensor.
On the fronts, you need to remove the sensor from the housing by using a 10mm socket and removing the arm. It has a square set base, so don't worry about needing an impact wrench or anything like that. Careful not to bend the housing if it's difficult.
Then repeat the same resistance check.
Replace any faulty sensors with this guy:
Headlight Leveling Sensor for Lexus RX330 RX350 RX400h ES300 ES330 IS300 Toyota Prius Tacoma Mazda RX-8
I opened up my front sensor and found it had corroded internal terminals resulting in intermittent connectivity. 25$ replacement on Amazon. I unclipped the harness to check continuity of the connector itself Front sensor had corroded internal terminal that intermittently connected.
Great information on the level sensor. I had a question which i've been searching for but can't find. Do you happen to know at what positions the arms on the leveling sensor (both front and rear) need to be?
Image I grabbed from someone else's post just to illustrate the arms. I've read they need to be positioned in an "L" shape, have you experienced ths to be true?
Originally Posted by Andreiu
Hey guys,
I was having off-and-on issues with my headlight level system as well.
Every time I did work on the car (I track my sc430, so often), it would act up.
It's super easy. First, make sure your headlamps are connected at the lamp. Check that behind the lamp every plug has a connector. Simply turn on your car and see if the headlights move up before dropping down.
Next, get your car on stands and remove your headlight level sensors. There's just a couple 10mm bolt heads. Put the bolts back in place if you plan to drive the car around while doing the repair. The clip can be a pita but just depress the push part with a flat head and keep wiggling and gently prying.
On the rear sensor, check the resistance between the middle prong and the outer prongs. As you are measuring, articulate the arms. Resistance should change smoothly. If it doesn't, bad sensor.
On the fronts, you need to remove the sensor from the housing by using a 10mm socket and removing the arm. It has a square set base, so don't worry about needing an impact wrench or anything like that. Careful not to bend the housing if it's difficult.
I opened up my front sensor and found it had corroded internal terminals resulting in intermittent connectivity. 25$ replacement on Amazon. I unclipped the harness to check continuity of the connector itself Front sensor had corroded internal terminal that intermittently connected.
09-15-21 | 06:22 PM
