TXFM

If you were to bolt a piece of stock across the section where the OEM bushings go, I see two issues:
1) The head of the bolts going into the original tapped holes in the frame would stick out and cause a problem when you try to bolt the ES bracket on top of it (I think).
2) See the pic - the rear ES bushings would cause the sway bar to be in a location farther from the frame, and this may affect the geometry and the ride. Not sure.

I thought about cutting those channels for grease, but decided to just drill holes that matched up with the holes for the grease fittings.

Good luck!
Cecil

mrblister

I have been reading all about the daizen anti sway bar kits . I am about to install as soon as weather gets warmer. Question the only bushings that come with the kit are front and rear . There are no new bushings for the end
links.[ short bar that shows bushings on top and bottom ] is it neccessary to
change those bushings even though the daizen kit does not come with them . You cant get in touch with daizen to ask or even buy any from them if they are available they just ignore all of my e mails . I once did an anti sway bar kit install on a 1973 lincoln mark 4. The kit was from quickor enginering and that came with all new polyurathane bushings and end link bushings. If i am going to go to the trouble of install do I need to address the end link bushings . My car is a 2005 sc430 with 5200 miles . I know the oem bushings have to be like brand new car nevers goes out in bad weather. I would appreciate any help on this

Buddy

CenterIsl

Yes - that's the potential issue I mentioned previously - does anyone know if offsetting the bushings down a couple of centimeters would make any difference?

Yes - this would increase the downward offset another few millimeters. It might also cause the ES mounting plate to deflect. A fix for _that_ would be to use a thicker plate and countersink the bolt head, or some other spacer between the ES mounting plate and the (theoretical) plate bolted to the original bracket (I'm thinking a piece of Starboard polyethelene).

So...if this scheme were to work at all...my question is, would bolts through the outermost ES position clear the outboard edges of the stock mount on the car? You originally said they were too wide for the existing bolt holes - I'm hoping they can go wide enough to go around the bracket. Does this make sense?

TXFM

Buddy, Daizen doesn't have end links, but I think it's a good idea. I nominate you (you're welcome!) to contact Energy Suspension and see what they have for our cars. Here's a link to their end link page - http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
Seriously, it would be great if you could figure out what parts we need.
Thanks,
Cecil

TXFM

I understand. The hole are far enough outboard. Look at the following pictures.

TXFM

This is the side by side view showing heighth differences.

TXFM

One last view:

CenterIsl

Huge thanks - those pictures and measurements were more than I expected.

In fact, I really think now that the best approach might be to Dremel away some of the external area of the bushing at the open end, and compress the ES bracket into more of an Omega shape. This would also help retain that bushing since there's no (existing) flat plate for it to mount against. And the offset wouldn't be as great as with the bolted shim approach.

mrblister

I accept [Your Welcome ] I have started a dialog to find out. I plan on installing the daizen anti sway bar kit s o it would be a good idea for mr to make the changes now if i can

Buddy

TXFM

I made a metal plate to go across the open bottom end of the ES bushing, since it would be open, and that's when I discovered that the ES mounting holes were too wide for the stock frame holes. If you do dremel the red ES polyurethane, remember that one side is split so that it will go over the sway bar. So, you may need to put a 19mm rod in the bushing and clamp it somehow to keep the correct shape. I thought about modifying the ES myself, but then gave up on the idea.

Oh - I did not cut any channels in either the Daizen or the ES bushings for grease flow. The ES has them already, and I decided that the Daizen would probably grease ok with just the hole that was drilled into them. Good luck!

TXFM

Great, Buddy! Thanks - keep us advised. You had a good idea there.

CenterIsl

That's where I am right now, but I do have some distractions at the moment so I'm just going to "think about it" for a while. Thanks again for all your detailed support!

mrblister

I emailed them for availability of end link bushings. I have not hear back from them I also cant get any responce from daizen. I have emailed daizen 5 times . I just dont get it . Is you is or is you aint in business


http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html


Buddy

mrblister

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html

I finally reached them they make no polyurathane end link bushings for our cars . I remember form when I instaled a heavey duty front and rear anti sway bar set up on a 1974 mark 4 lincoln That kit came with polyurathane end link bushings complete in fact it came with new medal end links you just changed out the entire set up. I nener had any problem with that set up from quickor engineering [ They sold the business years later ] I cant find any more informatiomn about them Daizen does not respond to any of my emails .Iam starting to think that the addition of the daizen anti sway bar set up looks like more problems then its worth. I keep reading about clunks and noise and changing the bushing mounts to ones with grease zerts . I would appreciate any ones input on how the like or dislike the daizen set up and is the improvement worth the potenial maintenance issues .

Buddy

norman52

Would there be room on the frame to use one of the factory holes and then either drill and tap a hole or drill a clearance hole and use a bolt and lock nut for the new hole and make these brackets work?