Dome/Map light replacement bulbs
#16
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I did the same, removed them 2x and yes I have dents on the frame. No biggie can not be seen, but thanks for the tip.
Will do as you did when my LEDs come in.
The cool thing is that the lights do dim down as well as OBP showed me.
Will do as you did when my LEDs come in.
The cool thing is that the lights do dim down as well as OBP showed me.
I took mine out to change to bayonet style LED from iJDMtoy.com. I highly recommend them. As for removing the lens, I recommend using a broad tipped, sharp flat screwdriver and attack it from the side that meets the windshield. Before I figured this out, I made a tiny "dent" in the off white plastic surrounding it on the passenger side b'c the lens looked like it had "divots" for easy removal. WRONG, they weren't for the removal, these are tiny little "boxes" on the inside of the lens that hold the internal magnification lens. Old bait and switch. If you attack it from the edge that blends into the windshield you shouldn't have any problems. Gradually apply twisting pressure (rather than leverage against the windshield) using the screwdriver to pry it up just enough then use your fingers to remove it. Just my two cents.
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Bkerjim (07-20-17)
#17
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
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The only thing i feared about the 12 LED panel lights as a replacement instead of the bayonet style is the amount of light. I don't want them to be blinding like being under an interrogation lamp, but these 5 LED ones turned out to be the perfect brightness. Not too overpowering and not dim by any means. I was happy with the results. Just a thought for anyone looking at changing the intereior to LEDs
Last edited by ShawnOk; 07-06-13 at 10:39 AM.
#18
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The only thing i feared about the 12 LED panel lights as a replacement instead of the bayonet style is the amount of light. I don't want them to be blinding like bring under an interrogation lamp, but these 5 LED ones turned out to be the perfect brightness. Not too overpowering and not dim by any means. I was happy with the results. Just a thought for anyone looking at changing the intereior to LEDs
#19
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OBP's 12 LED was just right. They are smaller LED's and will probably be the same lumens.
#20
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
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I just installed 9 LED boards that came with adaptors. Once again the polarity was backwards on my car so I had to remove the connector and reverse the wires. I read from another member that he had no problem with his '04 - perhaps the OEM wiring doesn't matter with the bayonette bulbs and the factor did either way ...
Anyway I got the blue LED, they dim and the light is great. Might be hard to read by but I dont need that. I will replace the floor lights when I get around to it.
Anyway I got the blue LED, they dim and the light is great. Might be hard to read by but I dont need that. I will replace the floor lights when I get around to it.
#21
Lead Lap
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Has anyone replaced their bayonet style bulbs with LED bayonet style bulbs? If so, what did you do to make them work. The polarity is reversed (at least in my 2002) in the fixture. The center conductor of the socket is grounded, rather than powered and the LEDs come with the center post as the power input (which is typical).
I took the light fixture down and was just going to swap the two wires in the connector but it turns out that there are three wires involved: ground, power (for the push button switches) and power from the door switches (that goes to the Off & Door switch at the front of the fixture). The only way I see to reverse them is to either cut and splice the wire swaps or drill out the rivets holding the wires in and swap them that way. (I'm not too crazy about either but would be more inclinded to do the cut and splice.)
Also, regarding the removal of the lens, wrap your flat head screw driver with masking tape and very carefully use it to pry the lens out. If you wind up with little divots in the plastic, use the round shaft of the screwdriver to burnish the plastic edge and smooth it out. That will clean it up pretty well.
I'd be concerned about prying the lens out from the front (next to the windshield) since that could result in breaking the little locking tabs off of the lens. Just a thought.
I took the light fixture down and was just going to swap the two wires in the connector but it turns out that there are three wires involved: ground, power (for the push button switches) and power from the door switches (that goes to the Off & Door switch at the front of the fixture). The only way I see to reverse them is to either cut and splice the wire swaps or drill out the rivets holding the wires in and swap them that way. (I'm not too crazy about either but would be more inclinded to do the cut and splice.)
Also, regarding the removal of the lens, wrap your flat head screw driver with masking tape and very carefully use it to pry the lens out. If you wind up with little divots in the plastic, use the round shaft of the screwdriver to burnish the plastic edge and smooth it out. That will clean it up pretty well.
I'd be concerned about prying the lens out from the front (next to the windshield) since that could result in breaking the little locking tabs off of the lens. Just a thought.
#22
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Did you get the one with adapters? If you did, all you need is flip the connector and kwala, reversed.
Has anyone replaced their bayonet style bulbs with LED bayonet style bulbs? If so, what did you do to make them work. The polarity is reversed (at least in my 2002) in the fixture. The center conductor of the socket is grounded, rather than powered and the LEDs come with the center post as the power input (which is typical).
I took the light fixture down and was just going to swap the two wires in the connector but it turns out that there are three wires involved: ground, power (for the push button switches) and power from the door switches (that goes to the Off & Door switch at the front of the fixture). The only way I see to reverse them is to either cut and splice the wire swaps or drill out the rivets holding the wires in and swap them that way. (I'm not too crazy about either but would be more inclinded to do the cut and splice.)
Also, regarding the removal of the lens, wrap your flat head screw driver with masking tape and very carefully use it to pry the lens out. If you wind up with little divots in the plastic, use the round shaft of the screwdriver to burnish the plastic edge and smooth it out. That will clean it up pretty well.
I'd be concerned about prying the lens out from the front (next to the windshield) since that could result in breaking the little locking tabs off of the lens. Just a thought.
I took the light fixture down and was just going to swap the two wires in the connector but it turns out that there are three wires involved: ground, power (for the push button switches) and power from the door switches (that goes to the Off & Door switch at the front of the fixture). The only way I see to reverse them is to either cut and splice the wire swaps or drill out the rivets holding the wires in and swap them that way. (I'm not too crazy about either but would be more inclinded to do the cut and splice.)
Also, regarding the removal of the lens, wrap your flat head screw driver with masking tape and very carefully use it to pry the lens out. If you wind up with little divots in the plastic, use the round shaft of the screwdriver to burnish the plastic edge and smooth it out. That will clean it up pretty well.
I'd be concerned about prying the lens out from the front (next to the windshield) since that could result in breaking the little locking tabs off of the lens. Just a thought.
#23
Lead Lap
#24
Lead Lap
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I found a seller on ebay that will reverse the polarity of the LEDs if you request it. I did it and it works! (The new LED is in the left fixture.)
Also, I discovered that using a 1" putty knife makes removal of the dome lens much easier and doesn't mark up the fixture.
Also, I discovered that using a 1" putty knife makes removal of the dome lens much easier and doesn't mark up the fixture.
#25
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The bayonet style is better. I used the flat type with the adapter plus some 3M tape which was included.
#26
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
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The circuit board leds I installed use an adaptor but the adaptor was polarized so I had the remove the wires and invert in the adaptor. All the DB9's I tried didn't work so I removed the entire light base and saw that the wires were soldered, and didn't have connectors; I decided not to mess with it.
#27
Lead Lap
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Does anyone know where I can obtain a map light switch? Mine is going out. I took the assembly down and cycled the switch a bunch of times and it is working again but I suspect that is only a temporary fix. I checked on Sewell and Park Place websites and they don't seem to sell just the switch, which really didn't surprise me. Sewell didn't appear to even sell the assembly (their part number 81260A) and Park Place lists it at $620.51! ![EEK!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/eek1.gif)
Here is what the switch looks like:
![EEK!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/eek1.gif)
Here is what the switch looks like:
#28
Lead Lap
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Here's an assembly removal tip. After removing the two screws in the fixture, pry the fixture at the front and note the two tabs that hold it inside the headliner. (Apologies for the crummy cell phone pictures out of focus.)
#30
Lead Lap
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For the generic bulbs, just do a search on nonpolarized BA9S bulbs (or reverse polarized).
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Wa7ed
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
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05-07-13 10:39 PM