Pulstar plugs problem
06-21-09, 12:17 AM
#1
Pulstar plugs problem
Hey all,
I just finished intalling Pulstar plugs
Now I'm misfiring on possibly more than one cyclinder
It happens throughout the entire RPM range, at idle but is worse above >2.5K.
I'll check out the problem when I get the chance (had a hard time with the install b/c the plugs are slightly longer than stock which made tightening difficult), maybe one (or more) was not tightened enough?
Anyone else experienced similar problems when installing plugs?
As for any performance gains, I'll report on it once this problem is fixed...
I just finished intalling Pulstar plugs
Now I'm misfiring on possibly more than one cyclinder
It happens throughout the entire RPM range, at idle but is worse above >2.5K.
I'll check out the problem when I get the chance (had a hard time with the install b/c the plugs are slightly longer than stock which made tightening difficult), maybe one (or more) was not tightened enough?
Anyone else experienced similar problems when installing plugs?
As for any performance gains, I'll report on it once this problem is fixed...
06-21-09, 03:42 AM
#2
waiting for the results.
check the wires or the coils that are attached to the plugs, mybe one is lose and cusing the misfiring.
I never used these but once I used for head plugs platinuem from bosh I think and I got a missfiring!!! so I went back to OEM plugs. the mechanic said it is a hot plug that can not be used on my car especially during summer!!!
I did not believe him as I dont think that there are hot & cold plugs or there is any link to winter or summer?!!! what you think?1
check the wires or the coils that are attached to the plugs, mybe one is lose and cusing the misfiring.
I never used these but once I used for head plugs platinuem from bosh I think and I got a missfiring!!! so I went back to OEM plugs. the mechanic said it is a hot plug that can not be used on my car especially during summer!!!
I did not believe him as I dont think that there are hot & cold plugs or there is any link to winter or summer?!!! what you think?1
06-21-09, 05:11 AM
#3
waiting for the results.
check the wires or the coils that are attached to the plugs, mybe one is lose and cusing the misfiring.
I never used these but once I used for head plugs platinuem from bosh I think and I got a missfiring!!! so I went back to OEM plugs. the mechanic said it is a hot plug that can not be used on my car especially during summer!!!
I did not believe him as I dont think that there are hot & cold plugs or there is any link to winter or summer?!!! what you think?1
check the wires or the coils that are attached to the plugs, mybe one is lose and cusing the misfiring.
I never used these but once I used for head plugs platinuem from bosh I think and I got a missfiring!!! so I went back to OEM plugs. the mechanic said it is a hot plug that can not be used on my car especially during summer!!!
I did not believe him as I dont think that there are hot & cold plugs or there is any link to winter or summer?!!! what you think?1
06-21-09, 05:42 AM
#4
Intermediate
Every Sparkplug has a heat range. This is from the Champion web site:
The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance
The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance
06-22-09, 08:42 PM
#5
I was given Pulstar plugs for my GX, RL, and SC from a factory rep as I once was in the industry. All have performed very well and so far am pleased with the MPG increase.
Early plugs designs had very weak construction which lead to busted plugs. I would pull the plugs and inspect them.
Early plugs designs had very weak construction which lead to busted plugs. I would pull the plugs and inspect them.
06-22-09, 11:03 PM
#6
Every Sparkplug has a heat range. This is from the Champion web site:
The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance
The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance
So it is real that there are hot & cold plugs
thanks for the great information. you are the best
Last edited by Turboo; 06-23-09 at 01:15 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
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06-23-09, 07:06 AM
#8
Intermediate
Most of the time you don't mess with the heat range of a spark plug. Such a hassle to change them only to find out you picked the wrong heat range. Sometimes I have used a slightly hotter plug for my old, tired chain saw or lawnmower that helps them run when they are idling and I had an old oil burning pickup that going up one heat range helped a lot. But 99% of the time I just run what the factory uses. They pay people big money to find the best sparkplug for the least amount of money to make the engine run and pass emissions.
I also looked at the performance gains with the fancy new sparkplugs and the first thing I noticed is all the gains are over 3,000 RPM. Well, I don't cruise at 95 or hit red line from a stop light so I would never see any performance increase.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!
Norm
I also looked at the performance gains with the fancy new sparkplugs and the first thing I noticed is all the gains are over 3,000 RPM. Well, I don't cruise at 95 or hit red line from a stop light so I would never see any performance increase.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!
Norm
06-23-09, 02:25 PM
#9
Hmm...
Just checked over all the plugs, all seem in good condition (looks like how they came out of the box, how do bad plugs look?), some were a little looose from the previous install, so I tightened them down good this time (20lb torque per instructions). Also unplugged the battery completely for the entire duration of the re-install (sufficient to reset the ECU?). Car is still idling rough and check engine light still is coming on after a minute of driving. I'm running out of ideas now...
I'm going to get a OBDII reader and see what the CEL is trying to tell me....
Anyone have any other ideas?
BTW, I got the Pulstar be1 plugs.
Just checked over all the plugs, all seem in good condition (looks like how they came out of the box, how do bad plugs look?), some were a little looose from the previous install, so I tightened them down good this time (20lb torque per instructions). Also unplugged the battery completely for the entire duration of the re-install (sufficient to reset the ECU?). Car is still idling rough and check engine light still is coming on after a minute of driving. I'm running out of ideas now...
I'm going to get a OBDII reader and see what the CEL is trying to tell me....
Anyone have any other ideas?
BTW, I got the Pulstar be1 plugs.
06-23-09, 08:56 PM
#11
Okay, the DTCs were as follow:
P0300 Random misfire
P0303 Misfire in cyclinder 3
P0306 Misfire in cyclinder 6
P0300 Random misfire
I then switch plugs from cyclinder 3 with cyclinder 1, reset the codes, and ran it again to see if the problem goes from cyclinder 3 to cyclinder 1...no luck...same codes...
I'm going to check the gap next, the plugs supposedly are set to .040 (per Pulstar spec)...but with the $1 gap tool, I measured it to be .035. Let's see if a more expensive gap measuring tool gives me a different (accurate measurement).
*sigh* didn't think changing plus would be this much of a headache...had no problems when I did my toyota
Lee, you had no problems at all? Didn't have to run a full tank, reset ECU, etc?
I'm about to put all the stock plugs back in and see of the problem is resolved. Then put one Pulstar plug in at a time to see if one (or all) of them are busted...
P0300 Random misfire
P0303 Misfire in cyclinder 3
P0306 Misfire in cyclinder 6
P0300 Random misfire
I then switch plugs from cyclinder 3 with cyclinder 1, reset the codes, and ran it again to see if the problem goes from cyclinder 3 to cyclinder 1...no luck...same codes...
I'm going to check the gap next, the plugs supposedly are set to .040 (per Pulstar spec)...but with the $1 gap tool, I measured it to be .035. Let's see if a more expensive gap measuring tool gives me a different (accurate measurement).
*sigh* didn't think changing plus would be this much of a headache...had no problems when I did my toyota
Lee, you had no problems at all? Didn't have to run a full tank, reset ECU, etc?
I'm about to put all the stock plugs back in and see of the problem is resolved. Then put one Pulstar plug in at a time to see if one (or all) of them are busted...
Last edited by CAMAracer; 06-23-09 at 09:00 PM.
06-23-09, 09:39 PM
#12
Very odd, have several thousand miles on these plugs in all 3 vehicles, no issues whatsoever. So you moved a the plugs from cylinder 3 to a know good spot and the code 303 still was set off? This would eliminate the spark plug as the issue if the same code was setoff. Your having a misfire in 3 & 6. Are the electrical connectors on very tight, with a click?
Could be the coils went south, though 2 at the same time would be a bit extreme the coils on these cars do go out.
i would check the connectors first, swap coils 3 to 4 6 to 7, clear codes, and check again. Then swap out 3/6 plugs.
Let me know how it goes. Problem should be easy enough, just take it one step at time like your doing.
Could be the coils went south, though 2 at the same time would be a bit extreme the coils on these cars do go out.
i would check the connectors first, swap coils 3 to 4 6 to 7, clear codes, and check again. Then swap out 3/6 plugs.
Let me know how it goes. Problem should be easy enough, just take it one step at time like your doing.
11-17-09, 05:08 PM
#13
Update: Been driving with the pulstar plugs for about 4 months now and think it has been an appropriate time to put in a review.
Before:
After:
Not bad in MPG increase, eh? Actually, it's a bit higher than that, my highest achieved range was 453 (last week).
Performance-wise, don't really know 'cause never got to do a dyno before for comparison.
Before:
After:
Not bad in MPG increase, eh? Actually, it's a bit higher than that, my highest achieved range was 453 (last week).
Performance-wise, don't really know 'cause never got to do a dyno before for comparison.
11-17-09, 06:44 PM
#15
While 90 miles plus from my house my RL developed all kinds of errors. Pulled codes and found a misfire. Pulled #6 plug and the tip was GONE. Went to the local auto parts store -I hate those places-and picked up a new set of plugs. Still have them in the GX, need to get around to removing them.
Unsure of any serious cylinder wall damage from the missing tip, hopefully it got pushed right out the exhaust. A fluke? Who knows, just never had a plug lose a tip in my chamber before.
Unsure of any serious cylinder wall damage from the missing tip, hopefully it got pushed right out the exhaust. A fluke? Who knows, just never had a plug lose a tip in my chamber before.