tfeni52355

You can send your speakers in for repair at SpeakerDoctor in Charlotte, NC and have them fixed for $30-$40 each or upgrade and replace.

I just finished the upgrade/replace. Added the additional amp to drive the sub and couldn't be happier. Much higher quality speakers all around and no ML issues to deal with. No boomy muddy bottom end. Clear, clean sound and as loud as you can stand it.

daryltrinh

iTrader: (1)

I've got an ML sub for sale if anyone's interested.

Dfowler

I replaced the 6x9 door speakers with Eminence Alpha 6A 6" speakers (make sure you order the 8 ohm speakers) and 6x9 to 6" speaker adaptors I got from "mjmautoinnovations" on e-bay. The adaptors are specific for the SC430 and worked GREAT and at a price that I couldn't make them myself. The speakers fit without any window problems. I replaced the second door speaker in less than 30 minutes once I had the first door done.

Make sure you look at the above mentioned link on speaker replacement. It is invaluable and makes the job a LOT easier.

TooCoolSC

Thank you for this information. I sent one of my speakers in recently for repair. As is typical, it needed to be refoamed and they said it would be $40.

I have installed two new 6 X 9 ML speakers, but will let the SpeakerDoctor repair both of my older ones. After they are repaired, I'll keep them for backups, or maybe consider selling them some day. I could sell them for more than I paid to have them repaired, but keeping them for backups would give me peace of mind to know I won't HAVE to shell out hundreds of dollars if something goes wrong with the new ones.

Whatever I decide to do with them, you can't beat $80 for two speakers, and that's what it is when you get them repaired. So don't throw those old speakers away.

JJsc430

Thank you Pogman!
Purchase 6x9 from SewellOnline and got CL disc like you said.
Local car stereo did install for $80 ($40/door).
Fix was less than $500 total and stereo sounds brand new without distortion from bass.

Poqman

JJsc430...You're welcome! Having read the thread, it sounded like a lot of CL members chose a different route for replacing their speakers, but I've been very happy with the OEM ML speakers. Hope you saved the old speakers for repair and hold as spares. Happy listening!

buck430

I saw these 6x9 on Sonic Electronix see url.

You can use the 6x9 and ditch the tweeter, high quality, I know it's about a 3.8 or so ohm driver but the ML may compensate for that. I've ordered mine already I'll let you know how it goes. You can't beat the price compared to dealer.



http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...se+SC6900.html

Poqman

buck430, how do you compensate that these speakers are 4 ohm, but the ML system is designed for 8 ohm? Will this put the amp at risk?

bobcat1

I searched hi and low for some decent replacements that could handle the pathetic volume issue of the ML's. As you all know there are almost no 8 ohm car speakers available.... well, I found some!! They're made by DC Gold. Do a search on the web and you will find several places, but shop around, as prices vary. They're actually designed for marine (boating), so a bonus for us drop top owners, as they will handle the elements better.

I was less than thrilled with the lack of volume the ML's could handle, but the DC Gold's are awsome! Rated for 80W. What a difference! Now I can be on the highway and next to a semi and hear my music.

Next, the install... they fit! RAH! I was afraid that they would be too deep, and the window wouldn't go down, but with the bracket from the ML's they're perfect. I'm not an expert installer by any means, and it took about three hours to do both fronts. I chose the N69R, these are the reference models. They also make a classic model (a little cheaper). Yes, they're not cheap-- $287, but they sound incredible. Check out their website to read up on then.

One note, on the install, you will need to use the mounting adapter that the ML's are screwed into. Peal the foam surround back from the 4 corners, and get an allen wrench to unscrew them... then take a flat head screw driver and loosen the speakers from the bracket (a little bit all the way around the edge, so you don't force/break them). To put the new speakers in the brackets, you have two options... drill the hole a bit wider in the DC Golds, or angle the screws in a bit all the way around.

I re-used the wire clips, and made an extension for the one side as the clips are on each side of the magnet... not a big deal. You can wedge the wire into the clip, then add a little solder to keep in in place.

I thought about replacing the rears too, but this has been more than adequite, and I'm a happy camper!!

There's a posting out here that shows how to take the door panels off-- and excellent write up.

More later if anyone is interested, or needs pics, let me know.

Habious

bobcat1,

Excellent find!! Nice work!!

Good to know that there's a drop-in replacement option for the SC430 other than buying the same not-so-great speakers from the dealership...at an insane price.

How's the difference in audio quality? You spoke about volume and power-handling capacity but, is there a noticeable difference in the bass response...overall sound quality by JUST doing this speaker swap?

And yeah, if you've got pics, that would be great to see!

bobcat1

My apologies for not taking more pics, but here you go.

The removal of the door panal was a trick... there are some wire connectors that need to be disconnected, so be ready with a small flat head screw driver to push the clip in to disconnect... then there are two cables that I had no idea on how to remove-- didn't really need to anyway, so by turning the door panal on it's side did the trick. Just prop it up against the door, and you're good to go. You have to slide the panal back (parallel to the door) to get it unhinged by the small tweeter. It was a bit of effort to get it back on too. Be patient, and try the slide method and it should go in/out.

You will need to re-use the speaker bracket from the ML's, so peeling the foam back to expose the screws is required, as stated earlier. Using this bracket over makes life much easier, as you will see... read my earlier notes about separating this from the ML speaker.

For the wire harness, you will need to clip the wires from the speaker (as close to the speaker as possible), then strip a small bit, and find a stranded wire to use as an extension for only one of the wires, as the other will be REALLY close to the harness connector-- you will have pleanty of wire to spare on the one close to the plastic connector.

Wedge the twisted strand end into the connectors on the speaker. It fits nicely-- perhaps a small bit of solder to ensure a permanent connection-- not completely essential, but I recommend it. If you don't, maybe crimp the end, or add a dab of rubber cement??

Finally, I had a JL Audio sub & amp installed (last year) prior to replacing the 6X9's, so my system may be a bit overkill (as most things in my life). I can honestly say that I may have reconsidered the aftermaker sub install, had I had done the 6X9's first. The install of the sub and amp was rediculous expense. Due to the depth limitation, I sacrificed my useless back seat. If I could do it over again, I would have moved it to the other side, so I could throw something in the back if I wanted... I don't want to dent / damage my grill cover, or for god sakes, place my briefcase with my laptop on top of the sub... I can't imagine what that magnet would do to my screen or hard drive.

So, to your question, overall bass was GREATLY improved. So much that if you keep your ML Sub, you may be content. The 6X9's added a much richer and deeper sound. I think it will also improve with time-- as speakers break in, they improve (especially my sub). Even in their current state, they're a MASSIVE improvement.

FYI, I don't mean to sound like an audio snob, but I consider myself to have somewhat of a trained ear. I have been a 'critical listener' for MANY years-- I've gone through countless hi end amps, processors, and speakers. If you're considering these, then do it-- you will be pleased.

If you want a one-on-one discussion, send me an eMail and we can talk.

Habious

Thanks!

Excellent write-up!

And that's a pretty neat sub installation you've got there. Never seen it done that way before.

daryltrinh

iTrader: (1)

When removing the door, you may remove the door lock/handle cables by releasing the cables ends for the slots.
Makes the work much easier and I'd recommend tighting the screws of the door panels to reduce creaks or rattles from the wood trim.

Good luck.

josepha

With most of my speakers inoperative and desiring Bluetooth and XM radio I decided to replace my entire radio / navigation system,. This involved 3½ days at Breakers Stereo in Oxnard, CA. All new speakers (Focus), new amps and an Alpine Head Unit has made it a superb but not cheap installation. Final installation is in-progress with tuning the system. I may have a 2002 SC430 but my sound and electronics package is state of the art.

tinshield

What was the final cost?