SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Discovered the source of the wind noise!

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Old 04-09-16, 08:10 PM
  #106  
nwcn98
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Default Weatherstripping

After trying multiple fixes I finally broke down and bought the new OEM weatherstripping.

However, I just traded my car in for the RC and now do not need both of these:

67864-24020 WEATHERSTRIP, FR DOO
67863-24020 WEATHERSTRIP, FR DOO

If anyone is interested please let me know.

B
Old 04-09-16, 09:53 PM
  #107  
texsexlex
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Originally Posted by nwcn98
After trying multiple fixes I finally broke down and bought the new OEM weatherstripping.

However, I just traded my car in for the RC and now do not need both of these:

67864-24020 WEATHERSTRIP, FR DOO
67863-24020 WEATHERSTRIP, FR DOO

If anyone is interested please let me know.

B
...although this was posted in the wrong section, send me a pm, I may take them off your hand
Old 04-11-16, 07:21 PM
  #108  
nwcn98
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Originally Posted by texsexlex
...although this was posted in the wrong section, send me a pm, I may take them off your hand
Just sent you a PM - thanks!
Old 05-04-19, 08:52 AM
  #109  
Harold57
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A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the weatherstripping again on the driver's side door and fixed a repair that I did last summer. (I'll put a reference to this post in my post #37 to this post for clarity.) The weatherstripping replacement that I did last summer made it difficult for the window to close, so I suspected that I hadn't installed it properly. As it turns out, I was right. (The dealer wanted to replace my window motor, which I knew was not the right answer.) So anyway, I figured that I'd fix the restriction in the passenger door first and learn what I needed to and then replace the weatherstripping in my driver's side door, which I had been limping along with repeated liquid tape bandages for a long time.

I messed with the passenger door for a long time (embarrassing long) and thought that I'd finally got it to seat properly and the window did seem to have improved movement. (This time I paid more attention to how the piece goes into the window.) So I moved on to the driver's side for replacement but paid attention to how it sat down inside before removing it and noticed the difference. I discovered (or rediscovered?) that the little hammer portion of the weatherstripping is supposed to slide in behind the little metal shelf and the window guide. I'm guessing that either I knew that in the past or just got lucky when I shoved it down in there. So when I went back to fix the passenger side, it only took me 15 minutes to redo the entire procedure.

For the most part, just follow my instructions on post #37 in this thread. However, for further clarification regarding the weatherstripping insertion, I've written up these instructions below which I learned in this go around.


Notice the little hammer-like portion of the weatherstripping on the bottom left of the picture. That is the piece that must slip down in between the metal shelf and the window guide. This is the key!

Here is an attempt at showing what it looks like down inside the door related to the weatherstripping installation and how it should look once it is installed.

So the bolt behind the window ECU & rubber hole plug is what secures the window guide down inside the door. So it is key to remove that bolt to aid in the weatherstripping insertion process.

When inserting the weatherstripping, pull the window guide (at the top) slightly toward the rear of the door using some long needle nosed pliers (I used a pair of long right angle needle nosed pliers.) Then push the weatherstripping little hammer looking portion (see the picture above) into the gap between the window guide and the little metal shelf (see the lame attempt at a drawing above). (The little hammer portion should slide in behind both the guide and the shelf.)

After seating the weatherstripping's hammer behind the guide and shelf, push the weatherstripping as far down as it allows and snap in the 2 weatherstripping push pins (one on the outside at the bottom of the side-view mirror triangle hole and one on the inside, up near the front of the door). Make sure that the forward most part of the weatherstripping seats under the rubber weatherstripping that goes down the front of the door and the portion on the outside that the mirror will cover. (I should take pictures of these but suspect that you'll recognize these without much trouble.)

Then reach inside the door with the pliers or a stick and push the window guide back to where the guide hole lines up with the hole in the door (behind the window ECU where you removed the rubber plug) and reinstall the bolt mentioned above.

At this point, go back to post #37 and just reverse all the other instructions.

I wish that I had pictures of the shelf and window guide, but I didn't think of it at the time and am not sure that I could get a decent picture down inside the door anyway. Hopefully my drawing will suffice and get you through the procedure that isn't quite so straight forward.

Last edited by Harold57; 05-04-19 at 04:46 PM.
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AT3618 (04-30-22), elibutton (07-31-21), JDaveSC430 (05-04-19)
Old 04-29-22, 05:28 PM
  #110  
AT3618
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Did the new weatherstrips fixed the wind noise problem? How long these new weatherstrips last? Thanks.
Old 04-30-22, 07:06 AM
  #111  
Harold57
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Yes, typically the torn weatherstrip is the source of the noise and replacing them rectifies the problem. (Occasionally there are other noise sources but the triangle weatherstrip is the most common.) How long they last will depend on how well your window travel is adjusted. If the window travels too high, it will wear it out sooner.
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Old 04-30-22, 05:05 PM
  #112  
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Thanks. Will try the Liquid tape method as some of the owners has tried before since I already has the liquid tape in my toolbox. If that doesn't work, then order the triangle strips from a dealer. Anyone knows which dealer has the better price for these weatherstrips? Thank you!
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