TooCoolSC

The point is that some of the earliest model SC's were in "disrepair" precisely BECAUSE of the way they were built. There were flaws in the design of the suspension. If that was not the case, the suspension wouldn't have improved over the years. They would have just left it alone. But they didn't.

Without question, earlier/earliest model SC 430's had known suspension problems that have been worked on and improved over the years. The 2002 seemed to have the greatest number of problems, and that is consistent with what we see on these boards. Of those who post complaints about the "clunking" ride and feeling every bump in the road, the majority seem to be on early model SC's, particularly 2002's. Noting these design flaws is not misinformation, IMO.

I'm sure someone could post the Lexus/Toyota Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) on the cars over the years if they knew where to look. I tried to Google the subject and came up with the information below.

Compare the TSB's for 2002 with those from 2007. I think it's pretty clear that Lexus did not build the same quality SC 430 in 2002 that they did in later years. And that's to be expected. With each year, they worked the kinks out.

2002

http://repairpal.com/lexus-sc430-2002/recalls_and_tsbs

Now, here's the same data from a 2007 SC430.....

http://repairpal.com/lexus-sc430-2007/recalls_and_tsbs

Just the suspension problems alone in the earlier years were numerous. This isn't even counting all the other TSB's on the car.

2002 Suspension & Steering: SUSPENSION

Service Bulletin Number: 1202
NHTSA Number: 10000251
Model Years Affected: 2002, 2003
Date of Bulletin: 02/2003
Bulletin Summary: SUSPENSION BALL JOINT INSPECTION METHOD.
» Back to Top
Suspension & Steering: SUSPENSION

Service Bulletin Number: SU00201
NHTSA Number: 619118
Model Years Affected: 2002
Date of Bulletin: 05/2001
Bulletin Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING WHEEL BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE (18 INCH WHEEL).
» Back to Top
Suspension & Steering: SUSPENSION:FRONT:STABILIZER BAR

Service Bulletin Number: SU00302
NHTSA Number: 628657
Model Years Affected: 2002
Date of Bulletin: 03/2002
Bulletin Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING FRONT STABILIZER BAR ABNORMAL NOISE.
» Back to Top
Suspension & Steering: SUSPENSION:FRONT:STABILIZER BAR

Service Bulletin Number: SU00202
NHTSA Number: 628989
Model Years Affected: 2002
Date of Bulletin: 03/2002
Bulletin Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING REPAIR MANUAL SUPPLEMENT - FRONT STABILIZER BAR TORQUE REVISION.
» Back to Top
Suspension & Steering: SUSPENSION:REAR

Service Bulletin Number: SU
NHTSA Number: 627149
Model Years Affected: 2002
Date of Bulletin: 02/2002
Bulletin Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER. C
» Back to Top
Suspension & Steering: SUSPENSION:REAR

Service Bulletin Number: SU00102
NHTSA Number: 628659
Model Years Affected: 2002
Date of Bulletin: 03/2002
Bulletin Summary: INFORMATION ON ELIMINATING NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER.

I also ran across the following here on CL from 2003.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...flat-info.html

TooCoolSC

Here's some more CL links regarding the suspension/TSB issues....

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...y-expires.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-runflats.html

KaiserSea1

I put up a post that covers consumer reports and JDPOWER. I put more trust in them than the few people on the board who post. Toyota quality has fallen over the years, but all cars improve over time as they discover flaws. No idea how this balances out. I do believe the components from Japan are better than the later years sourced in China, and the Japanese autoworker took great pride in these hand built cars. TSBs were performed or should have been performed on all of our cars.

The stats do not support a difference in SC quality, all rated very high. So we can differ, I would recommend anyone buying an SC430, spend 18K or less, buy a warranty, customize it, and enjoy. I think if price were not an issue, this would not be the car of choice. It is a great car for the money.

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

Greg-I have your solution!!! Buy one of these for a daily driver and keep the SC for the sunny nice days on smooth roads!

On a serious note, 2003 RR, GX, LX and 2004 QX's are sooooo reasonable now. Many under $20k...if you could find one real cheap and pay cash or do a small note for $250-$300/month that would be a GREAT daily beater!

Options2k

This could be a solution....however, based on my experience, the LX and the GX will just collect dust in the garage...and one would wish that everyday is a sunny, spring day.

Yes, my GX (2006 with KDSS) has arguably the best ride quality. I have heard people refer to it as the "magic carpet ride" in the GX forum. My LX (1997 with the solid front axle) can take me (literally) anywhere I want to go, and yes, the ride quality is good. But, these days I just "feel" like driving the SC everyday.

I don't want to get in the debate if the 2006+ SC is better in ride quality or not. However, my 2006 drives the best among the ones I test drove. I "felt" that this was perhaps because the other cars were not as well maintained as the one I ended up buying. May be it was just a coincidence that the others were older models!

I do have a question though based on some quick numbers - why would one buy an older model (good condition and low miles) for low-to-mid 20k and then spend money in tail-lights and headlights and most probably used car warranty vs. buy a 2006+ model (again, good condition and low miles), still in factory warranty for high 20k-to a bit over 30k? Even after buying 4 yr/100k Lexus ESP for the newer model, there is hardly any money to save with the older one? The key is (as SCDROPTOP says) to keep looking, patience and find the right car.

Back to wheels....I am keeping the stock wheels, perhaps just change the inserts to chrome one of these days. I will stick with 18" if I ever change the wheels. Yes, I will ditch the RFT in due time and go with the conventional (may be even a notch taller profile) for improved ride quality....just my opinion.

Now, I need to clay-bar my SC this weekend....it's going to be a beautiful, sunny weekend.


Cheers.

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

Options....the problem most have is understanding apples to apples comparison. It's the old comparison as to why CAN'T I get a good trade in on my car and a good sales price? There is no such thing...you just fight to get the best deal you can feel comfortable with!

It's hard to say why someone would opt for a lower $20k 2002-2005 model and add $3k in rims, tails, etc to update it when they can but a 2006 perhaps within a few grand, but each car and situation is different. These cars can look so flawless because they are so beautiful, they can almost "trick" the mind and the eyes! I don't look at years so much as condition and maint. To me, you cannot put a price on well maintained versus neglected. It's the "unknown" factor.


I've seen a BEATER before look great on the web...the SC is a stunning car.

There are some GREAT deals out there in 2006+ cars, but if they are going for a bit over $30k then they are not CPO for sure, and they certainly could be suspect as to why they are so cheap...

Case and point: Look at this 2006 I just found here locally for ONLY $21,900!!!! WOW!!!

Must be a steal, right? But wait! This dealer is off the highway and next to a chop shop, a bunch of wholesale, higher mileage and repo cars. You can smell paint in the air from the chop shop next door probably doing the cleanup work! I haven't looked at this one personally, but SOMETHING surely is wrong with it!!!

http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/ctd/1630294980.html

I'd rather pay $5k more for a well maintained, no story 2002-2005 any day for this 06.

A very clean 2004 CPO with higher mileage to me is worth more than a 2006 with similar miles but has not been maintained and no warranty at a wholesaler. I don't care about tails/wheels...after you add that stuff, they all end up looking the same just about!

Can you put a price on well maintainted? Maybe so...if you tally up the 30k and 60k service at the dealer (full price) you may be looking at $3k-$5k depending on brakes, etc. Tires another $1k for RFT's...you can easily swing $5k on two very similar year/mileage cars. One person could be getting a STEAL in price, but will later be killed in maint costs. I'd rather take the car that has been maint.

The warranty, as we all know can be priceless. You can, but you really cannot, put an accurate dollar amount on it. Someone just bought an ESP for $3k here on the CL, but others have gotten it "free" by buying a CPO and telling the dealer they don't want it and they accidently get it for free. We all know it only costs Lexus $970 to CPO a car, but what you really get is all the STUFF they do in that 165 point inspection, 30k service, tires possibly, battery, belts, pads, etc etc etc. Plus, you get the piece of mind that lexus dealer probably would NOT opt to CPO a clunker.

You have a point about the saving money on the older ones...unless you are comparing apples to apples. A 40k cream puff, well maintained 2002 may run you $21k. A 40k cream puff 2006 will still run you $31k. I don't know about you, but $10k is a savings, HOWEVER if you plan on doing all the modern updates, wheels, etc AND buy a warranty, then you are getting yourself into the upper $26-28k range perhaps and COULD have possibly stolen a nice 2006+ (all to your points). BUT...wouldn't you find something to buy on the 2006 anyway? Like a warranty for it now, or wheels, etc etc. It's never ending! I don't think we are EVER supposed to be completely satisfied with cars!!

talwang

iTrader: (4)

Maybe you can post your tire sizes.

Some tire/wheel shops would recommend 30/25 series tires for 20" wheels to stay within the stock spec, but that will cause the ride quality to decrease a lot.

jimmer!

I still don't think that GregSc430 answered the question: run flats or conventional?
as we know run flats create lots of ride problems that go away with conventions.

also, as far as balancing the wheels, as we've discussed before,
you've got to find a shop that does 'road force' balancing.
it takes special equipment and training to do this properly.
there's a big difference between conventional and road force results.
I've experienced both with my 430. road force is the only way to go.
it fixed all the shimmying and deep vibrations at speed.

GregSc430

OK, so I visited a Goodyear auto station today, they checked my car in and out, and, to my surprise, found absolutely nothing wrong with it. I figured it might have been the stock suspension that was the problem, and seems to be so. I do not know what to do from here, I feel that changing the rims will not eliminate the problem but alleviate it. So I think I will stick with the rims and look into changing the suspension. So I can do one of two things; go to a Lexus dealership and have them recommend the solution (changing the control arms or coil shocks) or I can ask someone here to recommend a solution I can talk through with my mechanic for this problem which HAS TO BE SOLVED! I do not feel like changing vehicles, too much time/hassle, although I have gotten many offers for my sc430 for the past week I have been driving it outside.

My wheel sizes are: 245/35 ZR20 95Y Estraload Nexen tires in the front
285/30 ZR20 in the back
Psi: 32 all around (had that changed in the shop, it was 40 before)

talwang

iTrader: (4)

Tire sizes are fine. Not the 30/25 rubber band set up.
I hope this is not the first time you have experienced in the ride quality on low profile tires.

Does your car have any warranty?
If not, you should go to a repair shop to check the bushings and suspensions.

GregSc430

I went to a shop today, nothing is wrong with the suspension.

talwang

iTrader: (4)

did they use a pry bar to check the bushings?
I am sure they did.
I thought it is just a tire store. silly me!

I know my stock sc would never ride as comfortable (and boring) as my stock GS350, so I doubt Tein CST alone would completely solve your problem.
You might also need some 18" wheels with conventional tires or just down size to 17".
You want the best of both worlds. 19" wheels with 245/40/19 and 285/35/19 tires.

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

Greg-what shop and how did they check?

talwang is right...19's offer something in between, but you still have plenty of other checklist items that are affordable as I mentioned in an earlier post that you can do...

Pressure-possibly one of the biggest roots of problems with low profile tires
Balance, rotate (if you are not staggered)
Alignment
Tire tread/brand/depth
Check rims to see if they are "true" without any bends...sometimes inner part of rim is bent too which can affect the ride

At the end of the day, ultimately if you are not happy with your ride with the 20's you may want to consider going back to a nice set of lexus g-spider, tourmalines or nice OE 18" chrome 2006+ wheels which are all around $800-$1k all day long and nice NON-RFT soft tires for a cushy ride. If it's your daily driver and it's really bothering you and the roads where you live are not going to get any better, you will need to make a change.

Or buy a Range Rover, GX, LX or QX for your daily commute!

GregSc430

Ive got staggered rims, which have been aligned, I think I will be repacing the rims, sadly. I will have to sell them, hopefully for a descent price. my rims are balanced/aligned and tread life is almost 100%. No rim damage, had all this checked. Went to GoodYear repair shop.

Yes

there's a classifieds section on this forum. being a new member, you could only list them for a local sale. but it's a good place to start.