LuxLink Installer in Southeast?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
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Hey all-
I'm fortunate to have just acquired a LuxLink for my SC430.
I'm hoping someone out there knows of a competent installer in the area (I'm in Birmingham Alabama).
Any references out there?
Thanks for any pointers.
I'm fortunate to have just acquired a LuxLink for my SC430.
I'm hoping someone out there knows of a competent installer in the area (I'm in Birmingham Alabama).
Any references out there?
Thanks for any pointers.
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
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Hey there-
The LuxLink is a remote starter and more importantly, remote top up/down control for the SC430.
I just managed to get one from a previous owner.
Not many gadgets for this car, but this is a hot one...
Thanks for the tip regarding possible installer.
The LuxLink is a remote starter and more importantly, remote top up/down control for the SC430.
I just managed to get one from a previous owner.
Not many gadgets for this car, but this is a hot one...
Thanks for the tip regarding possible installer.
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
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Ok-
Next question, what's a reasonable fee?
I've gotten a quote so far for $450.
Sounds a little steep, but I've been advised that if I don't know how to use a 'light meter' (or what that even is, as I don't), then I shouldn't attempt it myself.
Any thoughts on pricing?
Thanks!
Next question, what's a reasonable fee?
I've gotten a quote so far for $450.
Sounds a little steep, but I've been advised that if I don't know how to use a 'light meter' (or what that even is, as I don't), then I shouldn't attempt it myself.
Any thoughts on pricing?
Thanks!
#7
Moderator
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If you have the PDF/DOC on installation then, IMO, $450 is pretty steep for a two hour install job. The document has very precise and is well documented with photos and step by step instructions. If you can solder a couple of wires together, have patience, and take your time, it's a DIY.
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#9
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I had mine installed in Dallas at JP Importz, he did a great job. 3 years later not a problem yet! If you search my previous posts, he took a lot of pictures and clearly documented the full installation. You may want to give it an attempt before you drop near $500!
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
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Hey all-
I did in fact find another installer.
Please note that I just had a horrendous experience with a heat pump installation at my lakeplace (local installer fried two pieces of equipment by connecting to 240 incorrectly, crossed wires and refrigerant lines, etc).
So in addition to my default paranoia about mechanical / wiring things (I'm a software guy, hardware is a mystery), that horrific episode added another layer or three of apprehension.
But I found a guy who seemed to be pretty experienced over the phone; not a big company, just a one man shop, but he sounded credible.
I ended up taking my car to his place on a Sunday afternoon.
On my laptop, I had multiple sets of instructions and all the related links I could find.
He started tearing into the car (removing panels, etc) much faster than I was ready for (again, given my paranoia, I was planning to read each word of the instructions together, etc).
But I was quickly reassured by his knowledge of the topic, and that he had clearly read the install instructions fairly carefully in advance (unlike my heat pump install where the guy clearly hadn't opened the manual).
There were two issues that we worked around
a) one wire was described a little differently by the multiple install instructions; we ended up going with the 'marked up' install guide, I think, which said that wire could be connected to a 12v feed (which we did).
b) he cautioned in advance that he hadn't ever had much lock with the immobilizer bypass kit with the 'key in the box'; he had ended up wiring the key directly up against the gear in previous instances, or more preferably, he recommended programmable bypass kits.
He did a great job of testing each wire before connecting in, doublechecking the function with a light meter, etc.
He also did multiple (successful) test runs of the top up/down multiple times once that part of the wiring was completed (i.e., before the remote start was hooked up).
Once the remote start was also hooked up with the bypass kit, we tested the remote start. It didn't work. As soon as he pulled the key from the box and got it up close and tight to the area, remote start worked. This seemed to validate his earlier concern that those boxes can be a little finicky.
We then ran into ID10T problems (i.e., user error on my part).
Several moments of comedy, like when the car was started remotely and locked, and I couldn't unlock it with the remote. Several minutes of panic until we realized that the remote was now disabled, and we had to unlock the door manually (expected behavior).
Also, we were not able to get the start and the top to happen in the same sequence. Separately, they both worked, but the sequence to do them both was not working for me.
We called it a night at that point, as the problem seemed to be in my knowledge of the car shutdown / unlock / door close sequence, button presses, sequence, and timing of the presses (as I say, I'm a software guy, so this sort of thing is tough for my limited brain).
After several days of learning / using the system (hitting the brake and killing the engine after remote starting it, turning the key too far when it was already started, etc), I have to say that yup, you all were right, it's a must have, kickbutt cool addon.
The remote start & top open is still a little finicky timing wise on the button presses, but I've done it successfully many times, so I'm 99.9% sure it's being close enough to hear the long beep and initiate & complete the rest of the sequence in a timely fashion.
Anyway- the installer charged me a VERY reasonable rate of $$, and I added a good tip for the blessed relief of an undamaged vehicle and a working install.
Ground Zero Audio is the name of the business, and googling it along with Birmingham will get you contact info.
Thanks to all the CL folks who blazed the path in advance, and to the designer Steve Larkin for building this cool gadgetry.
I did in fact find another installer.
Please note that I just had a horrendous experience with a heat pump installation at my lakeplace (local installer fried two pieces of equipment by connecting to 240 incorrectly, crossed wires and refrigerant lines, etc).
So in addition to my default paranoia about mechanical / wiring things (I'm a software guy, hardware is a mystery), that horrific episode added another layer or three of apprehension.
But I found a guy who seemed to be pretty experienced over the phone; not a big company, just a one man shop, but he sounded credible.
I ended up taking my car to his place on a Sunday afternoon.
On my laptop, I had multiple sets of instructions and all the related links I could find.
He started tearing into the car (removing panels, etc) much faster than I was ready for (again, given my paranoia, I was planning to read each word of the instructions together, etc).
But I was quickly reassured by his knowledge of the topic, and that he had clearly read the install instructions fairly carefully in advance (unlike my heat pump install where the guy clearly hadn't opened the manual).
There were two issues that we worked around
a) one wire was described a little differently by the multiple install instructions; we ended up going with the 'marked up' install guide, I think, which said that wire could be connected to a 12v feed (which we did).
b) he cautioned in advance that he hadn't ever had much lock with the immobilizer bypass kit with the 'key in the box'; he had ended up wiring the key directly up against the gear in previous instances, or more preferably, he recommended programmable bypass kits.
He did a great job of testing each wire before connecting in, doublechecking the function with a light meter, etc.
He also did multiple (successful) test runs of the top up/down multiple times once that part of the wiring was completed (i.e., before the remote start was hooked up).
Once the remote start was also hooked up with the bypass kit, we tested the remote start. It didn't work. As soon as he pulled the key from the box and got it up close and tight to the area, remote start worked. This seemed to validate his earlier concern that those boxes can be a little finicky.
We then ran into ID10T problems (i.e., user error on my part).
Several moments of comedy, like when the car was started remotely and locked, and I couldn't unlock it with the remote. Several minutes of panic until we realized that the remote was now disabled, and we had to unlock the door manually (expected behavior).
Also, we were not able to get the start and the top to happen in the same sequence. Separately, they both worked, but the sequence to do them both was not working for me.
We called it a night at that point, as the problem seemed to be in my knowledge of the car shutdown / unlock / door close sequence, button presses, sequence, and timing of the presses (as I say, I'm a software guy, so this sort of thing is tough for my limited brain).
After several days of learning / using the system (hitting the brake and killing the engine after remote starting it, turning the key too far when it was already started, etc), I have to say that yup, you all were right, it's a must have, kickbutt cool addon.
The remote start & top open is still a little finicky timing wise on the button presses, but I've done it successfully many times, so I'm 99.9% sure it's being close enough to hear the long beep and initiate & complete the rest of the sequence in a timely fashion.
Anyway- the installer charged me a VERY reasonable rate of $$, and I added a good tip for the blessed relief of an undamaged vehicle and a working install.
Ground Zero Audio is the name of the business, and googling it along with Birmingham will get you contact info.
Thanks to all the CL folks who blazed the path in advance, and to the designer Steve Larkin for building this cool gadgetry.
#11
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Luxlink, by far is the BEST modification there is. I hope we can somehow get Steve to produce them again. Even if he will go back into production, since he doesn't want to be a CL seller, the forum wont let a group buy happen unless he does become one.
#12
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This group has been formed to keep SC430 owners informed as to the availability of the LuxLink modification and to show potential investors in LuxLink that there is still a market for this product.
To join this group and show your support for LuxLink resuming production, just send a blank email to: luxlink-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Thanks,
Johnny Cakes
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clubaddict
SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)
11
10-13-10 04:37 PM
430, availability, club, dallas, install, installers, instructions, lexus, link, lux, luxlink, sc, sc430, southeast, wiring