SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Got my Megan EZs! DIY coming

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Old 03-15-11 | 01:01 PM
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Default Got my Megan EZs! DIY coming

A big thank you to LSin75075.
Received my Megan EZ's today and got a great deal.
Took just two weeks to get here.
Starting the install at the weekend and fitting new discs/rotors at the same time.
Maybe asking you guys for some tips/help, but I have learnt so much from this forum, hope I won't need to.
Any advice before I start would be gratefully received.
I will take some pictures of the install and post them when it's finished.

Best regards

Steve
Old 03-15-11 | 01:06 PM
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Thanks in advance for the DIY pics. Thank you.
Old 03-15-11 | 04:45 PM
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Don't forget to get a good nights sleep, before you start. lol You'll have them on and driving around before we even get up. lol And I get up early. Good luck and smooth sailing this weekend. Don't forget to use the jackstands. And be careful. And take good pictures.
Old 03-15-11 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SteadyEddy
Don't forget to get a good nights sleep, before you start. lol You'll have them on and driving around before we even get up. lol And I get up early. Good luck and smooth sailing this weekend. Don't forget to use the jackstands. And be careful. And take good pictures.
Thanks for the good luck Eddy, will do my best with the camera.
What am I doing still looking at this forum, it's nearly midnight here. I'm off to bed.....
You will still be up before me I bet!!!
Old 03-15-11 | 05:44 PM
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Any advice before I start would be gratefully received.
If you're not using a lift and using a floor jack and jack stands, then lift both front sides so the torsion bar is unloaded when taking the bolts out and putting them back in. This was my mistake and it was difficult to get the bolts back in the front torsion bar. Make sure you have a tool for breaking the upper ball joint loose from the upper control arm. Some said you didn't need to do this, but I did.

For the initial setting of the coilover heights, I would try 1-1/2" less than the OEM lengths and make sure the pre-tension on the springs is set to zero. Mine were set at zero out of the box, but you need to verify.

I have selected a setting of 7 on the dampening both front and rear. Be aware that if you do not drill clearance holes in the trunk liner, than the trunk liner will press down on the dampening screws. I recommend drilling a 1" or 1-1/2" diameter hole for easy access to the adjustment *****.
Good luck! Still love mine.

Last edited by Poqman; 03-15-11 at 05:58 PM.
Old 03-15-11 | 06:46 PM
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Where are the Megan EZ's available? I heard they are back ordered until end of April.

I probably will pay to get them installed. A sponsor quoted $340 to install. Not too bad.
Old 03-15-11 | 08:55 PM
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[QUOTE=Poqman;6227026]For the initial setting of the coilover heights, I would try 1-1/2" less than the OEM lengths and make sure the pre-tension on the springs is set to zero. Mine were set at zero out of the box, but you need to verify.

what height is that compared to OEM ?

Last edited by tentoys; 03-15-11 at 08:58 PM.
Old 03-15-11 | 08:56 PM
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what height is that compared to OEM?
Old 03-15-11 | 09:57 PM
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I think Poqman meant to set the coilovers 1-1/2" shorter than the OEM shocks, so the initial ride height drop is 1-1/2". The Car will set for another ~1/2" after installation, so the total ride height drop is about 2" vs. stock.

Now I have a questions for those who have installed the coilovers. I measured my car's stock height from ground to the top of wheel fender at about 26-3/4", and ground to the top of the wheel/tire is 25". So the maximum drop should be 1-3/4". Is that right? Why can people drop 2" or even 2-1/2"
Old 03-16-11 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jzwu
Where are the Megan EZ's available? I heard they are back ordered until end of April.

I probably will pay to get them installed. A sponsor quoted $340 to install. Not too bad.
If you're in LA talk to a guy named Tommy at MusicBox (626.823.2853). He installed my coilovers (and many other members') for $200. He did a perfect job.
Old 03-16-11 | 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jzwu
I think Poqman meant to set the coilovers 1-1/2" shorter than the OEM shocks, so the initial ride height drop is 1-1/2". The Car will set for another ~1/2" after installation, so the total ride height drop is about 2" vs. stock.

Now I have a questions for those who have installed the coilovers. I measured my car's stock height from ground to the top of wheel fender at about 26-3/4", and ground to the top of the wheel/tire is 25". So the maximum drop should be 1-3/4". Is that right? Why can people drop 2" or even 2-1/2"
Dropping more than 1-3/4 will create a serious rubbing problem in the front fenders when turning, unless you modify the fenders (removing some parts of the liners and rolling the lip). Ask iamtheodor
Old 03-16-11 | 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Poqman
If you're not using a lift and using a floor jack and jack stands, then lift both front sides so the torsion bar is unloaded when taking the bolts out and putting them back in. This was my mistake and it was difficult to get the bolts back in the front torsion bar. Make sure you have a tool for breaking the upper ball joint loose from the upper control arm. Some said you didn't need to do this, but I did.

For the initial setting of the coilover heights, I would try 1-1/2" less than the OEM lengths and make sure the pre-tension on the springs is set to zero. Mine were set at zero out of the box, but you need to verify.

I have selected a setting of 7 on the dampening both front and rear. Be aware that if you do not drill clearance holes in the trunk liner, than the trunk liner will press down on the dampening screws. I recommend drilling a 1" or 1-1/2" diameter hole for easy access to the adjustment *****.
Good luck! Still love mine.
In the front, I did nine without undoing the upper ball joint. Instead, I undid the Shock Absorber Lower Bracket to get the OE shock assembly out. In the rear, remove the lower harm inner bolt (instead of the outer adjustment bolt). That way, you don't mess-up the camber.
Old 03-16-11 | 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Poqman
If you're not using a lift and using a floor jack and jack stands, then lift both front sides so the torsion bar is unloaded when taking the bolts out and putting them back in. This was my mistake and it was difficult to get the bolts back in the front torsion bar. Make sure you have a tool for breaking the upper ball joint loose from the upper control arm. Some said you didn't need to do this, but I did.

For the initial setting of the coilover heights, I would try 1-1/2" less than the OEM lengths and make sure the pre-tension on the springs is set to zero. Mine were set at zero out of the box, but you need to verify.

I have selected a setting of 7 on the dampening both front and rear. Be aware that if you do not drill clearance holes in the trunk liner, than the trunk liner will press down on the dampening screws. I recommend drilling a 1" or 1-1/2" diameter hole for easy access to the adjustment *****.
Good luck! Still love mine.
Hi poqman

Thanks for the advise, much appreciated.

Regards Steve
Old 03-16-11 | 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by scyul
In the front, I did nine without undoing the upper ball joint. Instead, I undid the Shock Absorber Lower Bracket to get the OE shock assembly out. In the rear, remove the lower harm inner bolt (instead of the outer adjustment bolt). That way, you don't mess-up the camber.
Hi scyul

Great tips, thank you. I also remember your tip to mark the trunk liner from underneath when the shocks are off, brilliant idea.
Appreciate all your help.

Regards
Steve
Old 03-16-11 | 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LSin75075
Will ordered one of the last sets from me. He's in the UK thats why it took 2 weeks to get to him (like 9 days I think).

The LPs should be in at the end of this month hopefully and EZs by the end of next month.
Sorry guys. I wasn't aware mine were one of the last. Hope I have not upset anybody, but feeling pretty smug really


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