Supra TT and LS400 Brake Conversion Anyone?
10-02-15, 08:36 AM
#47
Thanks for all the advice folks! Got it done yesterday and everything went (somewhat) smoothly. Rotors went on easy peasy. After trimming the heat shield to allow the larger caliper to fit, we couldn't get the bolts to match up to the knuckle. Struggled for about an hour... then realized we had the wrong side. Face palm. After that we got everything installed without any issues. I also ordered the stainless steel brake lines, which in the rear were the OEM SC430, but for the front were from the OEM Supra. My mechanics felt that the front were too long and could possibly rub. So we thought about trying the OEM Rear SC430 in the front but they were too short and didn't allow for enough travel when the wheel was cut all the way so we stuck with the longer supra lines and attached them to the ABS mount point with the associated mounting hardware. Got them installed with new pads. No issues. When we went to bleed the brakes, could not get any flow from the rear brakes. Very strange. Checked online for a remedy, and even used a diagnostic tool to no avail. Then I mentioned, maybe we should try to turn the ignition to ON. Boom, that did. Steady flow. So for anyone every trying to bleed the brakes, make sure the car is in the ON position to apparently engage the Master Cylinder. Filled up with DOT3 fluid to top off the MC. I went out and bed the pads on a side road. I am still getting a little bit of metal on metal sound when braking which I'm sure will dissipate with time as the pads and rotors wear. I will say that I do feel that the brakes do react and stop the car a lot better than the OEM. Anyway, thanks to everyone for all the advice and all the information throughout all the threads on BBK's. Pics to come soon
Unfortunately, in the end total job took 6 hours but was charged for 5 hours ($375). I somewhat feel this was unjust as I was helping install parts myself and the mechanics were simultaneously working on other cars and projects and lunch that slowed my install down. But they are great guys and truly work hard so I didn't make a big deal of it espcially since they've already treated me so well in the past. Anyway, job is complete and I'm happy with the results.
Unfortunately, in the end total job took 6 hours but was charged for 5 hours ($375). I somewhat feel this was unjust as I was helping install parts myself and the mechanics were simultaneously working on other cars and projects and lunch that slowed my install down. But they are great guys and truly work hard so I didn't make a big deal of it espcially since they've already treated me so well in the past. Anyway, job is complete and I'm happy with the results.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 10-02-15 at 08:50 AM.
10-05-15, 01:00 AM
#48
Thanks for all the advice folks! Got it done yesterday and everything went (somewhat) smoothly. Rotors went on easy peasy. After trimming the heat shield to allow the larger caliper to fit, we couldn't get the bolts to match up to the knuckle. Struggled for about an hour... then realized we had the wrong side. Face palm. After that we got everything installed without any issues. I also ordered the stainless steel brake lines, which in the rear were the OEM SC430, but for the front were from the OEM Supra. My mechanics felt that the front were too long and could possibly rub. So we thought about trying the OEM Rear SC430 in the front but they were too short and didn't allow for enough travel when the wheel was cut all the way so we stuck with the longer supra lines and attached them to the ABS mount point with the associated mounting hardware. Got them installed with new pads. No issues. When we went to bleed the brakes, could not get any flow from the rear brakes. Very strange. Checked online for a remedy, and even used a diagnostic tool to no avail. Then I mentioned, maybe we should try to turn the ignition to ON. Boom, that did. Steady flow. So for anyone every trying to bleed the brakes, make sure the car is in the ON position to apparently engage the Master Cylinder. Filled up with DOT3 fluid to top off the MC. I went out and bed the pads on a side road. I am still getting a little bit of metal on metal sound when braking which I'm sure will dissipate with time as the pads and rotors wear. I will say that I do feel that the brakes do react and stop the car a lot better than the OEM. Anyway, thanks to everyone for all the advice and all the information throughout all the threads on BBK's. Pics to come soon
Unfortunately, in the end total job took 6 hours but was charged for 5 hours ($375). I somewhat feel this was unjust as I was helping install parts myself and the mechanics were simultaneously working on other cars and projects and lunch that slowed my install down. But they are great guys and truly work hard so I didn't make a big deal of it espcially since they've already treated me so well in the past. Anyway, job is complete and I'm happy with the results.
Unfortunately, in the end total job took 6 hours but was charged for 5 hours ($375). I somewhat feel this was unjust as I was helping install parts myself and the mechanics were simultaneously working on other cars and projects and lunch that slowed my install down. But they are great guys and truly work hard so I didn't make a big deal of it espcially since they've already treated me so well in the past. Anyway, job is complete and I'm happy with the results.
Glad you got em on Shawn, I left the SC's original lines in the front! the charge is a little high but I guess because you guys did run into some issues, sall good though it happens sometimes.. if not here, then would've went somewhere else....
Anyhow how does it feel
?
10-15-15, 01:45 PM
#49
Brakes feel great. Great stopping power, for sure. I have one question though and it might be irrelevant, but I noticed that on the calipers there is an "anti-rattle spring." On Left it installed with the "hump" towards the rear of the car, and on the Right the same "hump" is toward the nose of the car. Can anyone verify which direction it should be and if it truly matters.
10-15-15, 07:39 PM
#50
So I put on about 100 miles today after my previous post. Out of nowhere I noticed a slight brake squeal right under 2mph from my front right caliper while I was sitting in Chicago traffic. I'm so upset b'c I know it's going be to more likely to be something more devious. It has truly ruined my day. I literally just got back from the gym, and I couldn't even concentrate. I just snapped at my wife about salad dressing. Grrrrrr.... my blood pressure is seriously through the roof right now. Someone help.
10-16-15, 09:47 AM
#52
Lexus Test Driver
Did you reinstall the anti-squeal plate or anti squeal membrane to the back of the pads?
It it possible the right pad is dragging on the rotor? Check to see if the right wheel is hotter than the left wheel. If so, the right caliper piston may not be releasing and you did say you were in traffic. I would assume stop and go traffic, generating heat.
It it possible the right pad is dragging on the rotor? Check to see if the right wheel is hotter than the left wheel. If so, the right caliper piston may not be releasing and you did say you were in traffic. I would assume stop and go traffic, generating heat.
Last edited by Bgw70; 10-16-15 at 10:43 AM.
10-16-15, 12:48 PM
#53
My mechanic did say that he believes the right side is running hot due to a dragging pad, as indicated by the wear pattern on the rotor. Possibly a problem with the caliper piston not releasing and thus running hard on the rotor. I'm so angry right now. Means I will have to get another caliper, prep and paint, install, and bleed again. None of which is free. I'm at my wit's end.
10-16-15, 02:01 PM
#54
Lead Lap
Shawn, are you sure that it is not the springs that force the pads away from the caliper when released? (I'm assuming here that these brakes have the springs like the SC430 has, right?) You might just need to retention the springs or clean up the pad pathway to make sure that they move back and forth easily. (There is also some copper grease that is used in brakes that my mechanics have used on mine to get rid of the "brake clunk". Obviously, the grease only goes on the pad pathway.)
If it really is the piston getting stuck, you may just need to ream out the cylinder. (I seem to remember someone else doing that on the forum a few years ago, though probably to a SC430 piston, I'm guessing.)
Hang in there man, you'll get there. Best of luck.
If it really is the piston getting stuck, you may just need to ream out the cylinder. (I seem to remember someone else doing that on the forum a few years ago, though probably to a SC430 piston, I'm guessing.)
Hang in there man, you'll get there. Best of luck.
10-17-15, 04:17 PM
#55
Shawn, did you have the calipers rebuild before you install them? You should have make sure that all pistons are moving freely and free of any brake dusts build ups. You can still take it or both off and rebuild them, at the very least, see if you had a stuck piston or two. There are a few videos on YouTube that ca guild you through rebuilding them and you can get the caliper rebuild kit from eBay or Toyota dealer. The kit that you will need is all the O rings and dust caps, couple of cans of spry brake cleaners. It's really not hard just need time to do them.
When I did mine, it took me 3 hours start to finish and I was taking my time.
When I did mine, it took me 3 hours start to finish and I was taking my time.
10-19-15, 12:27 PM
#56
Thanks to everyone that offered words of encouragement and advice. The spacers shims were in place correctly.The calipers were rebuilt with all new gaskets and internal hardware. I applied some Bosch brake lubricant to the side of both pads and the squeal went away, as well as the high temp when compared to the other side. I suppose it was a stuck pad that was dragging due to the paint on the inside of the caliper where the pad meets the caliper body. I sanded it down a little and now there's great movement and even seeing my MPG increase up to 19.8 from 16.9. Happy that it wasn't anything really devious and didn't cost me anything in the end but a little wrench time and a pizza for my mechanics for letting my borrow their bay, impact gun, and lift. Pretty happy now. Thanks again to everyone, again!
Last edited by ShawnOk; 10-19-15 at 12:32 PM.
10-19-15, 02:27 PM
#58
Lead Lap
That's great news Shawn. I'm glad to hear that it was something pretty simple!
11-26-15, 10:45 AM
#59
Hey team, just wanted to post an update. I'm having a new issue and not sure what to do. I need some serious advice. For about two weeks now, I've noticed that my front brakes (the Supra TT upgrade) have been squealing. The squeal only occurs at less that 2mph at the end of the braking cycle. It almost never occurs when decelerating from high speed to zero, but almost always occurs in stop and go traffic. This wasn't a problem right after then install but started a few weeks after. I thought back to my install and know that no one put any antisqueal lubricant on the back and side of the pads. So this past week, I took out the pads on both front left and front right, and used the lubricant hoping it would solve my problem. It didn't and the squealing continues. I took the car to Midas, who says they can't diagnose the problem as it could be the pads or the rotors or that the pads weren't "bedded correctly." I bedded them myself and know that I did it correctly. They did verify that the calipers are working properly and the pistons were releasing without pads dragging. I also feel that Midas was very busy and didn't do me justice by actually taking the time to troubleshoot. They just wanted to clear their busy schedule.
Anyway, so I started investigating using the diagrams on Toyota sites and found that I might be missing some hardware, but need some advice. I have attached the link below but am unsure if my 4 piston caliper (LInk 1) needs the SHIM, ANTI SQUEAL, N SHIM, ANTI SQUEAL, N....Part Number: 4774414130. This part is listed on diagrams at 47744 and 47745. but on the diagram for the two piston it is listed in the parts list (link 2). It's strange that in the 4 piston diagram it's in the diagram but not on the parts list. Additionally, from the diagram, it seems that the pads (04491) have some of the same plate parts on the exploded view. Also, some parts say the 47744 and 47745 show up as only for the TWIN CAM and not TURBO. And lastly, not sure why a part number changes (SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEA SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEA....Part Number: 0494514010) on Link 3, for apparently the same description. I'm not sure what to do and hope someone can lead me in the right direction. Somedays, I wish I had never done this mod....
Link 1- http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.co...05-291430.html
Link 2- http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.co...05-291430.html
Link 3- http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.co...05-291430.html
Anyway, so I started investigating using the diagrams on Toyota sites and found that I might be missing some hardware, but need some advice. I have attached the link below but am unsure if my 4 piston caliper (LInk 1) needs the SHIM, ANTI SQUEAL, N SHIM, ANTI SQUEAL, N....Part Number: 4774414130. This part is listed on diagrams at 47744 and 47745. but on the diagram for the two piston it is listed in the parts list (link 2). It's strange that in the 4 piston diagram it's in the diagram but not on the parts list. Additionally, from the diagram, it seems that the pads (04491) have some of the same plate parts on the exploded view. Also, some parts say the 47744 and 47745 show up as only for the TWIN CAM and not TURBO. And lastly, not sure why a part number changes (SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEA SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEA....Part Number: 0494514010) on Link 3, for apparently the same description. I'm not sure what to do and hope someone can lead me in the right direction. Somedays, I wish I had never done this mod....
Link 1- http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.co...05-291430.html
Link 2- http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.co...05-291430.html
Link 3- http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.co...05-291430.html
Last edited by ShawnOk; 11-26-15 at 10:50 AM.
11-26-15, 11:24 AM
#60
Lexus Test Driver
I was going to say that the shims may be causing the problem...reference diagram three, if you are missing these parts and the setup requires them, order them. The problem should be solved.