Alignment
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Hi Guys
Took the SC in for re-alignment at the weekend after fitting the Megans and I would be interested to see your comments.
Jamie, the guy who did the alignment could not get the car back fully into spec. (although it is not far off).
The main problem, it seems is that the rear camber adjustment washer bears on a section of the lower arm (see picture before alignment) that just bends away as the bolt is turned and will not allow the camber to adjust fully.
I am not sure if he was not doing the job correctly or if this is a common problem. Jamie said it is the same on the IS and appears to be a design fault!!
I have added the print outs before and after alignment, what do you think?
Best regards
Steve
Took the SC in for re-alignment at the weekend after fitting the Megans and I would be interested to see your comments.
Jamie, the guy who did the alignment could not get the car back fully into spec. (although it is not far off).
The main problem, it seems is that the rear camber adjustment washer bears on a section of the lower arm (see picture before alignment) that just bends away as the bolt is turned and will not allow the camber to adjust fully.
I am not sure if he was not doing the job correctly or if this is a common problem. Jamie said it is the same on the IS and appears to be a design fault!!
I have added the print outs before and after alignment, what do you think?
Best regards
Steve
#2
Lead Lap
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Hi Steve, I didn't have this problem after installing the Megan's, but it looks like you still have too much negative camber. I wouldn't worry to much about the front (it's not that far off), but the rear looks like you could get tire wear. It may be that you are trying to drop too much. Raising the car 1/2" to 3/4" may help get it back into an acceptable value (say -1.5). I have not seen an aftermarket kit for giving you more caster adjustment for our cars, but I have seen some coilovers that do have caster adjustment, but not on our Megan's.
I guess your options are 1)to try to raise the car a little to reduce negative camber, 2)to leave it and rotate the tires often while monitoring the wear or 3)to replace the rear lower support arms and hope it helps. I've also read where owners took the tires off the wheels and reversed them to help even the wear pattern, but I find that cost prohibitive.
Not sure it will help others, but this link helped me understand the terminology. http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm
I guess your options are 1)to try to raise the car a little to reduce negative camber, 2)to leave it and rotate the tires often while monitoring the wear or 3)to replace the rear lower support arms and hope it helps. I've also read where owners took the tires off the wheels and reversed them to help even the wear pattern, but I find that cost prohibitive.
Not sure it will help others, but this link helped me understand the terminology. http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm
#3
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I've also read where owners took the tires off the wheels and reversed them to help even the wear pattern, but I find that cost prohibitive.
If you have directional tires the above is not an option...sucks.
If you have directional tires the above is not an option...sucks.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Hi Steve, I didn't have this problem after installing the Megan's, but it looks like you still have too much negative camber. I wouldn't worry to much about the front (it's not that far off), but the rear looks like you could get tire wear. It may be that you are trying to drop too much. Raising the car 1/2" to 3/4" may help get it back into an acceptable value (say -1.5). I have not seen an aftermarket kit for giving you more caster adjustment for our cars, but I have seen some coilovers that do have caster adjustment, but not on our Megan's.
I guess your options are 1)to try to raise the car a little to reduce negative camber, 2)to leave it and rotate the tires often while monitoring the wear or 3)to replace the rear lower support arms and hope it helps. I've also read where owners took the tires off the wheels and reversed them to help even the wear pattern, but I find that cost prohibitive.
Not sure it will help others, but this link helped me understand the terminology. http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm
I guess your options are 1)to try to raise the car a little to reduce negative camber, 2)to leave it and rotate the tires often while monitoring the wear or 3)to replace the rear lower support arms and hope it helps. I've also read where owners took the tires off the wheels and reversed them to help even the wear pattern, but I find that cost prohibitive.
Not sure it will help others, but this link helped me understand the terminology. http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm
Thanks for your comments.
I have only lowered the car 1.5 inches and understood from the forum that problems with camber usually only occur if the drop is more than 1.75 inches.
Jamie, who did the alignment said it would probably come back into spec if I raised the car about .375 inch.
The worry I have is that maybe the camber will adjust more if it is done in a different way. Didn't have time at the garage to study the adjustment process, but if the lower arm adjustment 'stop' is bending is something else wrong that stops the bolt moving away from the stop?
When I took the bolt out to fit the Megan's (love them btw) all seemed as it should be.
Maybe, I should mark the position and take it out again to see if there is a problem. Jamie seemed to know what he was talking about, but I am not totally convinced.
The adjustments were made with the car on it's wheels (on a lift), would it adjust more if the weight was off the wheels?
Thanks again
Best Steve
#6
Lead Lap
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Maybe, I should mark the position and take it out again to see if there is a problem.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
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There is one thing I am not sure about. Although I said I lowered the car 1.5 inches, I actually mean I set the Megan 1.5 inches shorter than stock. Thinking about it more, maybe because of the position of the lower shock mount in relation to the wheel and whether the bottom arm is parallel to the ground it means I have lowered it more?
The problem is, I love the drop as it is so maybe I will have to decide to accept the tyre wear!!!
I will look at the adjustment bolt again at the weekend.
Best Steve
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#8
Lead Lap
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You also have to consider the spring stiffness differences between the OEM shocks and the Megan's. The car will settle lower with a weaker spring once you lowered it off the jack. So the 1-1/2" is a relative number, but not necessarily the total drop plus settlement. Did you take before and after measurements from the floor to the fender to see if it confirmed the 1-1/2" drop?
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
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You also have to consider the spring stiffness differences between the OEM shocks and the Megan's. The car will settle lower with a weaker spring once you lowered it off the jack. So the 1-1/2" is a relative number, but not necessarily the total drop plus settlement. Did you take before and after measurements from the floor to the fender to see if it confirmed the 1-1/2" drop?
Yes, I did take before and after measurements and you are right. The front is lower by 1.75 inches and the rear by 2 inches, so it is probably correct that if I raise it .375 it will come back into spec.
Thanks for your help.
Best Steve
#10
Lead Lap
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WIL44...it is probably correct that if I raise it .375 it will come back into spec.
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