Timing belt (miles or age??)
10-06-20, 09:46 AM
#46
Pole Position
10-06-20, 09:36 PM
#48
Pole Position
Even when the water-pump is weeping coolant, it usually won't affect the TB as the Toyota engineers designed a pathway for the water-pump seal seepage (which is normal) to exit the TB compartment without getting on the TB. I may keep waiting on replacing my TB until another problem comes up that prompts me to tackle it, like a pulley, alternator or water-pump failure. Until then, I'll keep rolling the dice at 12+ years/58K and counting!
10-07-20, 05:37 AM
#49
Our 2007 has 60K miles on it. Book says 90K or 10 years (I think) so I'm 3 years overdue on time alone. I'm on the fence if I should do it now or wait til 90K miles although it will never hit 90K miles unless we get back to "normal" and even then it would take another 6 or 7 years.
10-07-20, 05:34 PM
#50
Lexus Test Driver
10-07-20, 05:41 PM
#51
He should have. It’s south Florida, different world down here.
10-07-20, 06:03 PM
#52
Lexus Test Driver
10-07-20, 06:10 PM
#53
Lexus Test Driver
Our 2007 has 60K miles on it. Book says 90K or 10 years (I think) so I'm 3 years overdue on time alone. I'm on the fence if I should do it now or wait til 90K miles although it will never hit 90K miles unless we get back to "normal" and even then it would take another 6 or 7 years.
Well it's a good thing I didn't wait. I'll post photos tomorrow. The water pump was seeping through the lower right nut and dripping down. It's either a very recent leak or it's very very slow as my coolant level was normal. Doesn't look like any got on the timing belt which still looks brand new. Of course these things tend to get worse over time and that lower right nut is near the timing belt. Only a matter of time before it would have started spewing on the belt.
but you may have missed his follow up posts.
as you see, if sorka would have waited, an engine rebuild or replacement most likely would have been on the list after the fluid leaked out and/or water pump failed.
When the fluid leaks out of the engine the engine overheats and the aluminum heads warp.
If the water pump bearing fails the belt can come loose and the pistons smash into the valves.
either way, the end result, a catastrophic failure of the engine.
Last edited by Bgw70; 10-07-20 at 07:52 PM.
10-08-20, 03:37 PM
#54
Pole Position
you told sorka it’s a scam
but you may have missed his follow up posts.
as you see, if sorka would have waited, an engine rebuild or replacement most likely would have been on the list after the fluid leaked out and/or water pump failed.
When the fluid leaks out of the engine the engine overheats and the aluminum heads warp.
If the water pump bearing fails the belt can come loose and the pistons smash into the valves.
either way, the end result, a catastrophic failure of the engine.
but you may have missed his follow up posts.
as you see, if sorka would have waited, an engine rebuild or replacement most likely would have been on the list after the fluid leaked out and/or water pump failed.
When the fluid leaks out of the engine the engine overheats and the aluminum heads warp.
If the water pump bearing fails the belt can come loose and the pistons smash into the valves.
either way, the end result, a catastrophic failure of the engine.
There is gray area here, and that's why I propose each person assess their level of comfort with risking delaying a TB replacement. I understand your point-of-view and appreciate your perspective, but it's not black and white. Best-practices say replace one's TB per the manufacturer's recommended interval, and that works for most people. However, some, like me, are willing to gamble based on past experiences with TB's. The manufacturer has everything to gain by making a conservative call on the interval. However, if they were paying for the replacement of everyone's TB's, I'll bet they would extend it! Too, the manufacturer has to base their interval on a worst-case-scenario--a vehicle routinely driven hard in dusty conditions, located in the hottest or coldest climate, where ozone levels are high, where the vehicle isn't garaged, and so on. Most of us don't fit this scenario.
Certainly, the observation of coolant weeping from the water pump seal sways the decision to change the TB, but coolant seepage is expected, and that's why the engineers made a pathway for seepage to exit the TB "compartment" without getting on the TB. Generally, if the seepage is so slow that it drys before dripping on the floor of the garage, it isn't an emergency. However, if it is fast enough to require one to top off the reservoir, the pump should be changed, and when changed, it only makes sense to do a complete TB job. Seepage happens when particles in the coolant get caught on the sealing surface of the water pump shaft. However, it stops when the particles are ultimately flushed past the sealing surface. So, seepage typically comes and goes, unless the seal, or the shaft's sealing surface, is damaged. Bearing play can cause seepage too, but progresses to leakage which will be painfully obvious and needs to be addressed immediately.
10-09-20, 10:49 AM
#55
Lexus Test Driver
Bgw70: I hope you don't mistake my following perspective as any kind of attack or slight on your knowledge or experience. I generally find your postings to be highly informative and beneficial!
There is gray area here, and that's why I propose each person assess their level of comfort with risking delaying a TB replacement. I understand your point-of-view and appreciate your perspective, but it's not black and white. Best-practices say replace one's TB per the manufacturer's recommended interval, and that works for most people. However, some, like me, are willing to gamble based on past experiences with TB's. The manufacturer has everything to gain by making a conservative call on the interval. However, if they were paying for the replacement of everyone's TB's, I'll bet they would extend it! Too, the manufacturer has to base their interval on a worst-case-scenario--a vehicle routinely driven hard in dusty conditions, located in the hottest or coldest climate, where ozone levels are high, where the vehicle isn't garaged, and so on. Most of us don't fit this scenario.
Certainly, the observation of coolant weeping from the water pump seal sways the decision to change the TB, but coolant seepage is expected, and that's why the engineers made a pathway for seepage to exit the TB "compartment" without getting on the TB. Generally, if the seepage is so slow that it drys before dripping on the floor of the garage, it isn't an emergency. However, if it is fast enough to require one to top off the reservoir, the pump should be changed, and when changed, it only makes sense to do a complete TB job. Seepage happens when particles in the coolant get caught on the sealing surface of the water pump shaft. However, it stops when the particles are ultimately flushed past the sealing surface. So, seepage typically comes and goes, unless the seal, or the shaft's sealing surface, is damaged. Bearing play can cause seepage too, but progresses to leakage which will be painfully obvious and needs to be addressed immediately.
There is gray area here, and that's why I propose each person assess their level of comfort with risking delaying a TB replacement. I understand your point-of-view and appreciate your perspective, but it's not black and white. Best-practices say replace one's TB per the manufacturer's recommended interval, and that works for most people. However, some, like me, are willing to gamble based on past experiences with TB's. The manufacturer has everything to gain by making a conservative call on the interval. However, if they were paying for the replacement of everyone's TB's, I'll bet they would extend it! Too, the manufacturer has to base their interval on a worst-case-scenario--a vehicle routinely driven hard in dusty conditions, located in the hottest or coldest climate, where ozone levels are high, where the vehicle isn't garaged, and so on. Most of us don't fit this scenario.
Certainly, the observation of coolant weeping from the water pump seal sways the decision to change the TB, but coolant seepage is expected, and that's why the engineers made a pathway for seepage to exit the TB "compartment" without getting on the TB. Generally, if the seepage is so slow that it drys before dripping on the floor of the garage, it isn't an emergency. However, if it is fast enough to require one to top off the reservoir, the pump should be changed, and when changed, it only makes sense to do a complete TB job. Seepage happens when particles in the coolant get caught on the sealing surface of the water pump shaft. However, it stops when the particles are ultimately flushed past the sealing surface. So, seepage typically comes and goes, unless the seal, or the shaft's sealing surface, is damaged. Bearing play can cause seepage too, but progresses to leakage which will be painfully obvious and needs to be addressed immediately.
One must decide if new parts allow them to drive the car on a 300 mile journey or around town without the worry of a major engine failure.
I personally will never advise anyone to ignore the time interval...I did in the past, but not now...
I usually replace every part removed with new. Yeah, I know, overkill but, I can afford it and it makes me more confident in the cars reliability.
I learn new things everyday and have learned a tremendous amount from very smart people in this forum...CL folks are the best IMO.
Last edited by Bgw70; 10-10-20 at 02:49 AM.
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Wilson2000 (10-09-20)
10-09-20, 10:53 AM
#56
Pole Position
05-28-22, 12:17 PM
#58
Pole Position
Seriously, your question can only be answered by you, guided by your sense of risk aversion. You're already 11 years past the time recommendation, so most wouldn't hesitate. Also, 19K is extremely low miles for the age, so one might consider what detrimental affect this could have on all the components in the TB train, let alone the belt. Long periods of inactivity can compromise the seals and lubrication in the water pump and pulley bearings. Has your coolant been changed according to schedule? My biggest concern would be a water pump failure that could take out the TB, and thus, engine. However, if the vehicle has been driven regularly, has been garaged, and has been well maintained, I wouldn't see changing the TB (and all other associated components) as anything to lose sleep over. On the other hand, if I were uncertain about the history or if I wanted to start driving the vehicle daily and taking it on trips, I'd likely get busy on changing the TB sooner than later.
Last edited by Wilson2000; 05-31-22 at 05:08 PM.
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Bgw70 (05-28-22)
05-29-22, 08:24 AM
#59
... convert to EV?
... not to be cavalier but I have wondered if costs of EV conversions come down in the future (I know, big IF) ... since I plan to keep my 2007 for very long time, would EV conversion make any sense? One thing for sure - no need for timing belt replacements 😉
05-29-22, 12:09 PM
#60
Pole Position
What’s EV? Electric Vehicles ?