SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Rear Axle Seal Replacement

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Old 01-22-12, 06:19 PM
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emg2919
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Default Rear Axle Seal Replacement

Has anybody had this done? I have a 2002 SC430/126k miles and am told I need these (left rear) to be replaced. It makes a loud humming noise and increases with speed. It's not the tires, I just replaced those. Also, the noise is consistent on different types of pavement; i also jacked the car up and tried to wiggle the rear wheels (to see if it was the bearings), and they were solid.

Has anybody had have to this done before? What did it cost? Dealer or mechanic? What were your symptoms?

Thanks.
Old 01-23-12, 09:00 AM
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emg2919
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Nobody has had this issue or changed them?
Old 01-23-12, 11:12 AM
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kjcole
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Unless these seals also act as a bearing or support, the humming won't be fixed by replacing seals. I'd get a better handle on the source of the noise. Speed-dependent rear-end noise often means ring gear, pinion bearing, etc in the differential, doesn't it? I had an 82 Toyota Supra that had a humming/howling rear-end when the ring gear when out. Also, I'd guess that those seals go out usually because something was wobbling. What's the left half shaft and CV joints look like (feel like)?

However, I''m just guessing here so get the diagnosis and advice of someone you trust. Differentials and drive axles aren't that complicated on a rear-wheel driver like ours (except that Torsen limited slip differential we use is a bit more complicated I guess) and are pretty reliable for the most part. Check the drive shaft supports too?

Last edited by kjcole; 01-23-12 at 11:27 AM.
Old 01-23-12, 03:04 PM
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emg2919
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Thanks for the reply. I guess I should clarify a bit more; apparently yes, it's not the seals per se, but the fact that the seal is leaking fluid, which accounts for the hum? If the seal allows it to leak fluid, then there isn't the correct amount of fluid in there to lubricate the necessary parts, which could I guess cause the audible hum.

I have an appoint at the dealership Thursday so I will report back. I looked at the cv joints and axles, everything looked up to par.
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Old 01-24-12, 07:38 AM
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kjcole
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Sorry for being a little professorial there.

Yes, if you've lost a lot of fluid you could get a hum. But that would take a good amount of fluid loss and have me worrying about differential damage. So, before I paid just for a seal replacement I'd refill the differential and see if the hum goes away. If it does, good, if not, then maybe the fluid loss has caused some gear scoring, etc.

(P.S. Does emg in you handle refer to electromyography??)

Last edited by kjcole; 01-24-12 at 07:48 AM.
Old 01-24-12, 09:52 AM
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First off, thanks. EMG does not stand for electromyography though, just my initials. Ha.

The reason I'm getting my seal replaced is that the dealership screwed up and offered my this replacement for 86.08, instead of the 528 or whatever it should've been, so I'm going to take them up on this offer.

Is it safe to assume that they would change the rear differential fluid when they change the seal? I would think that they fluid would have to be drained in order for them to change the seal, so then in turn, they would have to refill it.

Yes?
Old 01-24-12, 09:54 AM
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kjcole
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yes, for 86 bucks you'll find out if the hum goes away with a refill. Good deal. I hope that does it for you. Good luck.
Old 01-26-12, 10:07 AM
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kjcole
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Any resolution to your problem?
Old 01-26-12, 04:23 PM
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Well, I just got back. They said the rear axle seal wasn't bad, and didn't replace it. They said it's the right rear wheel bearing is going/gone bad. They did the differential oil and quoted me 675+ for the wheel bearing. I said take care of the differential oil and I'll get back to you regarding the wheel bearing. I know my way around a tool kit, I may do the wheel bearing myself. What level DIY is it? As long as I don't need a hydraulic press, I think I could handle it.


Thoughts?

Otherwise, anybody know any good, reputable mechanics in Jacksonville, FL?
Old 01-27-12, 07:57 AM
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kjcole
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As I understand it the factory calls for removing part of the axle carrier so you can get the axle shaft out enough to access two of the bolts for the wheel bearing hub assembly (so if you buy the assembly you don't have to remove/press the bearing). So, your are disconnecting rear ball joints, etc.

Maybe someone else knows more.
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