I forget, is this the door panel or the one by the back seat? If it is the door panel, there are still clips in the bottom of the door that have to be popped out, you can't see them because they are behind the leather. (Go to the thread where I and others gave instructions on how to replace the triangle weatherstripping piece.) Then to lift the panel off, you have to pull the bottom out a tad and slide it out to the back.

 

It sounds like the cone is loose, but maybe you just can't see where it is loose. (It may still have a tight fit but not tight enough when it is positioned any way other than down to hold it in place.) It sounds like the cone rests on to the proper interface when you lay it face down. Try gently moving it with your fingers, both at the outer edges and at the center.

 

I have the speaker out of the frame. The speaker looks all in 1 piece but sounds busted on low notes. I will post a pic or 2. Saw some rust on the magnet though.

 

It's good to hear someone else say this; when this was a hot topic a few years ago, I made the same suggestion. Everyone seemed to think the amps would blow, so I just kept my mouth shut...lol...2 years later, those Boston Acoustics are still sounding good

 

My 6X9s are fine so I haven't had the need to look for a replacement. If I did, I would not hesitate to put in the 4 ohm speaker that is far more available than the 8 ohm 6X9. Lots and lots of 4 ohm 6X9s to chose from. I have seen the threads also. I too have kept my mouth shut. (till now of course) Most people think this is resistance not impedance. This is where the misconception comes in.

 

Goggle 8 ohm 6x9 speakers - looks like of potential choices - just have to check out speaker depth - and you could always use a spacer on the surface mount if its just a little too deep. I would not run 4 ohm speakers when the specs says 8 ohm on midrange speakers with a fragile amp like the ML.


Your best bet may be to convert to a 6.5 inch 8ohm speaker - you can by conversion adapters or you can make your own new mounting plate if you are a little handy with a jig saw and some scrap mdf or plywood.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-speakers.html

or get an adapter from crutchfield -
http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/6x9_adapter.html

 

I'm not saying you are wrong, but why do you say it is a fragile amp? Do we know of people that have had their amps damaged because they used 4 ohm speakers or are people assuming that it is not good to use a 4 ohm where an 8 ohm was speced. Please provide more than just supposition.

 

Will have the Crutchfield speakers tomorrow. We'll mount and test it. I will take pics. This was my choice and will live with it.

I think it is just going to fine and dandy.

Thanks guys.

 

Heavy weigh extremely well built amps can handle running speaker loads with half the impedance that they are designed to use. ML amps are lightweight junk (despite all the marketing hype) produced by mass car electronics supplier Harman International Industries. They buy up old brand names like ML and then sell consumer grade low to mid level electronics under those old brand names.
All of the brands below are owned , marketed and built by the exact same company (Harman International) out of low cost jobber style fill to order factories in Asia.

AKG,
Hrman Kardon
Infinity Systems
JBL
Lexicon
Mark Levison

The only thing audiophile about these "brands" is the marketing brochure.

 

Ok last post here in this thread. Again, I'm not saying you are wrong. (I'm not saying you are right either) Please give me some details of how many amps have been damaged by using 4 ohm speakers. Your opinion of the brands is of no value. Unless you have evidence that supports your statement it is of little value. I suspect you have no data to support your opinion. If you think I am not familiar with those brands you are wrong. I was in the business for years and still am an enthusiast.

 

My post is my educated and experienced opinion only. From another person's perspective it could be dead wrong and if it is so be it.


If you don't agree with my opinion that's perfectly OK and is actually encouraged. Please post your own opinion based on what you know rather than challenging other folks posts. Being a positive contributor is more useful. Multiple viewpoints are a good thing. But this forum isn't a debating exercise. Requests for "supporting data" on an internet car forum are silly at best.

In terms of credentials, I invented the internet, designed the first car audio amp, and traveled here from the future to help all mankind : )

 

Lets make a deal. If you tell me the winner of Super Bowl 2013, i'll split the money I win with every one in this forum and we can blow up 8 ohm amps with 4 ohm speakers all day long. Of course if money wasn't an option, i'll be doing it mythbusters style...

...or you can let me borrow the time machine

 

The speakers came, was installed and I am happy. Now I know I was missing something. Still have to do the passenger side.

I could not yank out the door panel and had to do everything from under. Painful.

But I an happy now.

Next.

 

...hopefully I'm not wrong, but I think thats what iolmaster & myself were saying...this is an experienced opinion only.Everyone has said that you should get the 8 ohm speakers & we're not arguing that fact. We're only saying that we've used 4 ohm speakers with 8 ohm amps & had no issues. When I switched my M/L speakers for B/A speakers, I knew that I might run into an issue eventually. I think in the back of my mind,I figured if it didn't work,it would be my reasoning for gutting the car & doing a big system...lol...but I've had no issues with the 4ohm speakers or the 8ohm amps & it's been almost 3yrs..

 

Its not a black and white deal, in actuality both the amp and speaker rated impedance vary significantly over frequency ranges - the actual mechanics of the situation are pretty complex..

You may well be able to use the 4 ohm rated speakers you are using just fine depending on the actual ohm/frequency profile that speaker presents to your amp and how hard you push it.

The ohm rating on speaker is known as the "nominal" rating (can be understood as its average ohm rating to keep it simple). The reason speakers are nominally rated is that actual resistance (ohm rating) )of a particular speaker varies significantly by frequency (as does the amp to add to the complexity).

Also different models and manufactures of speakers produce nominally rated 4 ohms units that vary their resistance load with frequency fairly significantly.

So... two different model or brand 4 ohm rated speakers can present a different resistance load to a given amp. One model may not produce any issues while another may cause the amp to clip and overheat.

So going from nominally 8 ohm to 4 ohm rated speakers theoretically reduces the resistance load that the amp is expecting to work against by 50%. That is pretty significant reduction in resistance (not a good thing) for a car amp and can cause it to over heat and fry itself (although most amps have a cut out circuit to protect them from getting too hot and self destructing/igniting) when played at loud volumes.

So I am not saying it can't be done just saying it does present some risk and it could end up overheating the amp. And compared to much more robust heavy built amps available on the market, the ML amp is pretty wimpy. Some companies are building monster amps rated down to 2 ohm loads these days. A 2 or 1 ohm load is almost like running a dead short on the amp - ie just twisting the two speaker wires together...