Checklist for used 2007 with 12K miles....
10-05-12, 12:04 AM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Checklist for used 2007 with 12K miles....
Looking at a 2007 tomorrow with 12K miles. If it's really in the condition that the seller represents I'm going to pull the trigger. There's not really much history. Clean car fax with no entries other than dealer prep, sale, title issued, and address changed. There are records for oil changes at a lexus dealership at 5K miles and 10K miles. Is this enough? Sold new in September of 07.
What should I look for? I'll be bringing an obdII scanner and will do the usual checks of all the fluids, check for leaks, thorough test drive, evidence of paint, lips on the edges, panel alignment, etc.
What about things specific to the mid cycle refresh on this model?
Tire pressure sensors? Blown speakers? Alternator voltage?
What should come with the vehicle? How many keys and what types? Toolkit? First aid kit? Wheel jack?
Should I insist that the SC is not started on the day that I arrive? I've had bad experiences with cars that burn oil where the seller will warm it up before hand so it doesn't blow blue smoke. Is the engine on this one bullet proof enough I don't really have to worry about oil consumption or oil burning?
What all should I check?
What should I look for? I'll be bringing an obdII scanner and will do the usual checks of all the fluids, check for leaks, thorough test drive, evidence of paint, lips on the edges, panel alignment, etc.
What about things specific to the mid cycle refresh on this model?
Tire pressure sensors? Blown speakers? Alternator voltage?
What should come with the vehicle? How many keys and what types? Toolkit? First aid kit? Wheel jack?
Should I insist that the SC is not started on the day that I arrive? I've had bad experiences with cars that burn oil where the seller will warm it up before hand so it doesn't blow blue smoke. Is the engine on this one bullet proof enough I don't really have to worry about oil consumption or oil burning?
What all should I check?
Last edited by sorka; 10-05-12 at 12:08 AM.
10-05-12, 04:55 AM
#3
Moderator
Sounds like you are way ahead of most car buyers just from your questions. I might be more inclined to just insist that a Lexus inspection is part of the transaction. You argre on the price and then give owner a small deposit to hold the car. The owner meets you at nearest Lexus dealer and you pay to have it inspected ($100 or so). If it passes clean you drive to the bank and close the deal. If some unexpected issues show up you get your deposit back or you renegociate the price to include any needed repairs or other issues.
If you are buying from the original owner and car has low miles and you have experience and skills to inspect the car yourself you are likely OK to self inspect. But if the car is from a small dealer and/or has come thru any of the car auctions, self inspection is high risk, I would absolutely take it and pay for a pro level Lexus dealer "up on the rack" style inspection before I handed over any money.
If you are buying from the original owner and car has low miles and you have experience and skills to inspect the car yourself you are likely OK to self inspect. But if the car is from a small dealer and/or has come thru any of the car auctions, self inspection is high risk, I would absolutely take it and pay for a pro level Lexus dealer "up on the rack" style inspection before I handed over any money.
Last edited by Jabberwock; 10-05-12 at 04:59 AM.
10-05-12, 05:37 AM
#4
Lead Lap
Sounds like you are way ahead of most car buyers just from your questions. I might be more inclined to just insist that a Lexus inspection is part of the transaction. You argre on the price and then give owner a small deposit to hold the car. The owner meets you at nearest Lexus dealer and you pay to have it inspected ($100 or so). If it passes clean you drive to the bank and close the deal. If some unexpected issues show up you get your deposit back or you renegociate the price to include any needed repairs or other issues.
If you are buying from the original owner and car has low miles and you have experience and skills to inspect the car yourself you are likely OK to self inspect. But if the car is from a small dealer and/or has come thru any of the car auctions, self inspection is high risk, I would absolutely take it and pay for a pro level Lexus dealer "up on the rack" style inspection before I handed over any money.
If you are buying from the original owner and car has low miles and you have experience and skills to inspect the car yourself you are likely OK to self inspect. But if the car is from a small dealer and/or has come thru any of the car auctions, self inspection is high risk, I would absolutely take it and pay for a pro level Lexus dealer "up on the rack" style inspection before I handed over any money.
10-05-12, 12:23 PM
#5
Wow that's a low mileage 07. Good luck with it.
If it is what it is advertised for, it will be a super buy.
Care to tell us how much?
And tell us where it is located....LOL.
Seriously good luck.
If it is what it is advertised for, it will be a super buy.
Care to tell us how much?
And tell us where it is located....LOL.
Seriously good luck.
10-05-12, 12:25 PM
#6
Have you checked the Lexus history on it?
What's the VIN?
We can check for you if you want.
What's the VIN?
We can check for you if you want.
10-05-12, 03:41 PM
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10-06-12, 08:35 AM
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In my mind it's hard to justify not taking it to the dealer. It's low cost and they should well know specifics and any potential costs. While a personally performed thorough inspection provides most what you need, it's good to have the 'stamp of approval' from a professional.
10-07-12, 08:31 AM
#9
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the response. I had looked at this sticky of course. I was looking for advice tailed to what issues are unique to really low mileage vehicles that have some years on them.
I did go look at it and it is not without issues. I would have had it taken to a dealer, but the nearest dealer is a 100 mile round trip.
The car has 12K miles on it. It has a clean carfax and I was able to get the dealer service history and it checks out and there aren't any complaints of weird issues. The bumper to bumper warranty only just expired. The power train warranty is in effect for another year or so.
I spent 3 hours checking the car over. The biggest issue right up front is that the alternator was only outputting 13.1 volts and it wouldn't restart when turned off. The person who brought me the vehicle did so and left it running until I showed up. Obviously big major red flags. He had admitted that they have to jump start it as it's no longer being stored in a location where their trickle charger can keep the battery charged.
The power antenna is stuck half way up or down. There are some cosmetic issues with the paint which were already disclosed prior to me arriving that aren't major, but we're talking $1 to $2K at a reputable body shop. They already agreed to knock the price off by that. The right two wheels have minor road rash on the rims. They are painted and clearcoated, so if they are repaired, they'll have to be repainted. The left two wheels are perfect. The wheels have never been rotated and the treadwear is even which is a good sign.
The interior is perfect as you would expect for such few miles.
The road test showed no issues at all. No wind noise. No hesitations. No rough shifting. etc. Very quiet car on the frewway. More cowl shake than my C5 on rough road with the top down but solid and ridged with the top up.
The left rear quarter panel has been repainted blended back and butt match with the door. I can see the bead of the tape mark on that side next to the door. Sometimes this does not prove body work, but the driver side does not have the same bead. The car spent 8 months as a dealer demo and I suspect whatever happened occurred during this period.
So I am somewhat disappointed. However, the car is mostly perfect but not as perfect as one would expect for so few miles.
I'm waiting to hear back if they'll knock the dealer estimated cost to replace the warranty.
Also, there were no leaks under the car, but the oil dip showed oil at the halfway mark. No necessarily a red flag, but the oil was last changed 1500 miles ago at the dealer in January. Hopefully they didn't fill it to the top of the dip because if they did, then it's burned a half qt in 1500 miles. My concern would be worn valve guides from long periods of sitting between startups allowing the oil to sloth off the guides nearly completely.
However, the power train warranty is in effect and it has had it's required services, so there's a chance that if there were an issue it would still be covered by the power train warranty especially if it results in large billowing puffs of blue smoke on startup but since I wasn't able to check the car out cold, I couldn't check for it.
I did go look at it and it is not without issues. I would have had it taken to a dealer, but the nearest dealer is a 100 mile round trip.
The car has 12K miles on it. It has a clean carfax and I was able to get the dealer service history and it checks out and there aren't any complaints of weird issues. The bumper to bumper warranty only just expired. The power train warranty is in effect for another year or so.
I spent 3 hours checking the car over. The biggest issue right up front is that the alternator was only outputting 13.1 volts and it wouldn't restart when turned off. The person who brought me the vehicle did so and left it running until I showed up. Obviously big major red flags. He had admitted that they have to jump start it as it's no longer being stored in a location where their trickle charger can keep the battery charged.
The power antenna is stuck half way up or down. There are some cosmetic issues with the paint which were already disclosed prior to me arriving that aren't major, but we're talking $1 to $2K at a reputable body shop. They already agreed to knock the price off by that. The right two wheels have minor road rash on the rims. They are painted and clearcoated, so if they are repaired, they'll have to be repainted. The left two wheels are perfect. The wheels have never been rotated and the treadwear is even which is a good sign.
The interior is perfect as you would expect for such few miles.
The road test showed no issues at all. No wind noise. No hesitations. No rough shifting. etc. Very quiet car on the frewway. More cowl shake than my C5 on rough road with the top down but solid and ridged with the top up.
The left rear quarter panel has been repainted blended back and butt match with the door. I can see the bead of the tape mark on that side next to the door. Sometimes this does not prove body work, but the driver side does not have the same bead. The car spent 8 months as a dealer demo and I suspect whatever happened occurred during this period.
So I am somewhat disappointed. However, the car is mostly perfect but not as perfect as one would expect for so few miles.
I'm waiting to hear back if they'll knock the dealer estimated cost to replace the warranty.
Also, there were no leaks under the car, but the oil dip showed oil at the halfway mark. No necessarily a red flag, but the oil was last changed 1500 miles ago at the dealer in January. Hopefully they didn't fill it to the top of the dip because if they did, then it's burned a half qt in 1500 miles. My concern would be worn valve guides from long periods of sitting between startups allowing the oil to sloth off the guides nearly completely.
However, the power train warranty is in effect and it has had it's required services, so there's a chance that if there were an issue it would still be covered by the power train warranty especially if it results in large billowing puffs of blue smoke on startup but since I wasn't able to check the car out cold, I couldn't check for it.
10-07-12, 08:33 AM
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Oh, and I checked out the electronics, audio, navigation, etc. No issues found. I was surprised to the see the nav screen is smaller and lower res by a lot compared to my 2nd gen Prius.
10-07-12, 09:20 AM
#11
Thanks everyone for the response. I had looked at this sticky of course. I was looking for advice tailed to what issues are unique to really low mileage vehicles that have some years on them.
I did go look at it and it is not without issues. I would have had it taken to a dealer, but the nearest dealer is a 100 mile round trip.
The car has 12K miles on it. It has a clean carfax and I was able to get the dealer service history and it checks out and there aren't any complaints of weird issues. The bumper to bumper warranty only just expired. The power train warranty is in effect for another year or so.
I spent 3 hours checking the car over. The biggest issue right up front is that the alternator was only outputting 13.1 volts and it wouldn't restart when turned off. The person who brought me the vehicle did so and left it running until I showed up. Obviously big major red flags. He had admitted that they have to jump start it as it's no longer being stored in a location where their trickle charger can keep the battery charged.
The power antenna is stuck half way up or down. There are some cosmetic issues with the paint which were already disclosed prior to me arriving that aren't major, but we're talking $1 to $2K at a reputable body shop. They already agreed to knock the price off by that. The right two wheels have minor road rash on the rims. They are painted and clearcoated, so if they are repaired, they'll have to be repainted. The left two wheels are perfect. The wheels have never been rotated and the treadwear is even which is a good sign.
The interior is perfect as you would expect for such few miles.
The road test showed no issues at all. No wind noise. No hesitations. No rough shifting. etc. Very quiet car on the frewway. More cowl shake than my C5 on rough road with the top down but solid and ridged with the top up.
The left rear quarter panel has been repainted blended back and butt match with the door. I can see the bead of the tape mark on that side next to the door. Sometimes this does not prove body work, but the driver side does not have the same bead. The car spent 8 months as a dealer demo and I suspect whatever happened occurred during this period.
So I am somewhat disappointed. However, the car is mostly perfect but not as perfect as one would expect for so few miles.
I'm waiting to hear back if they'll knock the dealer estimated cost to replace the warranty.
Also, there were no leaks under the car, but the oil dip showed oil at the halfway mark. No necessarily a red flag, but the oil was last changed 1500 miles ago at the dealer in January. Hopefully they didn't fill it to the top of the dip because if they did, then it's burned a half qt in 1500 miles. My concern would be worn valve guides from long periods of sitting between startups allowing the oil to sloth off the guides nearly completely.
However, the power train warranty is in effect and it has had it's required services, so there's a chance that if there were an issue it would still be covered by the power train warranty especially if it results in large billowing puffs of blue smoke on startup but since I wasn't able to check the car out cold, I couldn't check for it.
I did go look at it and it is not without issues. I would have had it taken to a dealer, but the nearest dealer is a 100 mile round trip.
The car has 12K miles on it. It has a clean carfax and I was able to get the dealer service history and it checks out and there aren't any complaints of weird issues. The bumper to bumper warranty only just expired. The power train warranty is in effect for another year or so.
I spent 3 hours checking the car over. The biggest issue right up front is that the alternator was only outputting 13.1 volts and it wouldn't restart when turned off. The person who brought me the vehicle did so and left it running until I showed up. Obviously big major red flags. He had admitted that they have to jump start it as it's no longer being stored in a location where their trickle charger can keep the battery charged.
The power antenna is stuck half way up or down. There are some cosmetic issues with the paint which were already disclosed prior to me arriving that aren't major, but we're talking $1 to $2K at a reputable body shop. They already agreed to knock the price off by that. The right two wheels have minor road rash on the rims. They are painted and clearcoated, so if they are repaired, they'll have to be repainted. The left two wheels are perfect. The wheels have never been rotated and the treadwear is even which is a good sign.
The interior is perfect as you would expect for such few miles.
The road test showed no issues at all. No wind noise. No hesitations. No rough shifting. etc. Very quiet car on the frewway. More cowl shake than my C5 on rough road with the top down but solid and ridged with the top up.
The left rear quarter panel has been repainted blended back and butt match with the door. I can see the bead of the tape mark on that side next to the door. Sometimes this does not prove body work, but the driver side does not have the same bead. The car spent 8 months as a dealer demo and I suspect whatever happened occurred during this period.
So I am somewhat disappointed. However, the car is mostly perfect but not as perfect as one would expect for so few miles.
I'm waiting to hear back if they'll knock the dealer estimated cost to replace the warranty.
Also, there were no leaks under the car, but the oil dip showed oil at the halfway mark. No necessarily a red flag, but the oil was last changed 1500 miles ago at the dealer in January. Hopefully they didn't fill it to the top of the dip because if they did, then it's burned a half qt in 1500 miles. My concern would be worn valve guides from long periods of sitting between startups allowing the oil to sloth off the guides nearly completely.
However, the power train warranty is in effect and it has had it's required services, so there's a chance that if there were an issue it would still be covered by the power train warranty especially if it results in large billowing puffs of blue smoke on startup but since I wasn't able to check the car out cold, I couldn't check for it.
Unless you can get a killer deal of it, I would pass with all these "minor" issues. Just seems too much drama for a high end Lexus.
10-07-12, 11:03 AM
#12
Lead Lap
More than likely, the low alternator output and the car not restarting after running is a battery problem, not an alternator problem. The battery may have a shorted (or really weak) cell in it resulting in exactly what you are describing. You can always have a parts shop or someplace similar do a load check on the battery and an output check on the alternator. My money would be on a battery that is way past its time.
The antenna issue could be a couple of items: a bent element or a broken gear piece on the inside. Both of which are resolved by replacing the antenna. (Several threads about replacing the antenna element on this forum, including instructions on removing the old element and installing the new element without major surgery or skillsets.)
Those were the two major items as I read it, so long as the paint issues aren't covering up any previous accidents that damaged the frame. If the paint issues are minor enough to not bother you and you feel comfortable addressing the battery and antenna issue, then it may be a healthy car. You just have to decide whether you will be happy with it a year from now knowing the various minor issues you brought up are still there.
Something you might consider is making a deal with the guy that after replacing the battery the issue is not resolved, then more money comes off or he takes the car back. Though after writing that statement I'd also add, you might want to do that before money exchanges hands also as your bargaining power will drop quickly after exchanging money.
One other item to look for is whether there is too large of a power drain when the car is shut off because that could also be the root of the problem. If there is a big power drain, then I'd walk away from the deal unless it gets resolved.
The antenna issue could be a couple of items: a bent element or a broken gear piece on the inside. Both of which are resolved by replacing the antenna. (Several threads about replacing the antenna element on this forum, including instructions on removing the old element and installing the new element without major surgery or skillsets.)
Those were the two major items as I read it, so long as the paint issues aren't covering up any previous accidents that damaged the frame. If the paint issues are minor enough to not bother you and you feel comfortable addressing the battery and antenna issue, then it may be a healthy car. You just have to decide whether you will be happy with it a year from now knowing the various minor issues you brought up are still there.
Something you might consider is making a deal with the guy that after replacing the battery the issue is not resolved, then more money comes off or he takes the car back. Though after writing that statement I'd also add, you might want to do that before money exchanges hands also as your bargaining power will drop quickly after exchanging money.
One other item to look for is whether there is too large of a power drain when the car is shut off because that could also be the root of the problem. If there is a big power drain, then I'd walk away from the deal unless it gets resolved.
Last edited by Harold57; 10-07-12 at 11:15 AM.
10-07-12, 12:16 PM
#13
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Six months ago I recently passed on a 07 SC with 46k on it and a asking price of 28000$. I had found out with a Lexus check on the Vin that it had been dropped from a transport truck and body work was done. Frankly I did not want to deal with hypothetical issues down the road and I bought a 04 that was pristine but was three years older for 21000$. It was coming off Lexus certification and I knew it had been taken care of. Was this the right decision? For me it was, but others would say you should have gone with the 07. The moral----do what you think is best for you! Good luck.
10-07-12, 04:48 PM
#14
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I've been looking for about 6 months now. The one I wish I hadn't passed by, and this was early on in the search, was a CPO '07 with 42K miles on it. The dealer was asking $34K. I thought it was too high and offered them less. After several days of back and fourth, the lowest they were willing to come down was $33K and the highest I was willing to go up to was $31K. I figured I'd let it sit a week and then re-issue my offer, but they sold it 2 days later. Typically of what I have been looking at was an '07 with 47K miles on it last week at a used car lot in Walnet Creek. Spent 20 minutes on the phone with the sales asking him very specific questions while he walked around the car. Things like road rash on wheels, and condition of the leather of the drivers seat, etc. When I get up there, it's hard to believe we were even talking about the same car. Not only were all 4 wheels completely scratched on the rims, the leather was cracking. Additionally, the front grill was cracked and the bumper was about 1/2 inch pushed in under the hood so the hood no longer aligned with the bumper. An obvious front end collision. They patronized me by telling me that I had a really good eye and must really know a lot about cars to see that. I just shot back, "my eight year old daughter would have seen it it's that obvious". The other SC they had sitting next to it had the bumper pushed in so far the hood no longer closed at all. Both SCs were bought at auction. Typical sleazy used car dealer crap.
Almost every other SC that I've looked at that was supposedly in perfect condition has had a handful of issues serious enough that the seller should have disclosed them before wasting my time. Honestly, despite the charging issue(maybe it is just a battery), this one was no worse or better in terms of seller honesty.
For what I've actually spent time looking at, this is the best deal so far, but I'm also somewhat burned out looking.
We've settled on a price of $31.7K which is the previously discussed price minus the dealer cost to install a new factory alternator. That was quotes btw at $700.
Almost every other SC that I've looked at that was supposedly in perfect condition has had a handful of issues serious enough that the seller should have disclosed them before wasting my time. Honestly, despite the charging issue(maybe it is just a battery), this one was no worse or better in terms of seller honesty.
For what I've actually spent time looking at, this is the best deal so far, but I'm also somewhat burned out looking.
We've settled on a price of $31.7K which is the previously discussed price minus the dealer cost to install a new factory alternator. That was quotes btw at $700.
10-07-12, 04:49 PM
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Six months ago I recently passed on a 07 SC with 46k on it and a asking price of 28000$. I had found out with a Lexus check on the Vin that it had been dropped from a transport truck and body work was done. Frankly I did not want to deal with hypothetical issues down the road and I bought a 04 that was pristine but was three years older for 21000$. It was coming off Lexus certification and I knew it had been taken care of. Was this the right decision? For me it was, but others would say you should have gone with the 07. The moral----do what you think is best for you! Good luck.