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Lots has changed since auto school in 1990. Didn't even have obd 2. So still reading and learning trying to stay knloadgeable with changes. Lots I don't know these days. Not that anyone knows all the answers. I'm far from that point. I don't think I would want to be either. It would take some of the fun out of life. Like today it didn't know about the transmission mod on here till today. I would like to know what it is adjusting. I'm assuming it is flow to the 1-2 shift accumulator. Let me know please.
I was an ent medical technician in the army. I graduated auto technology at northwestern technical college ( now university northwestern) in Lima Ohio. Then a mechanical engineering degree from Michigan State. Now semi retired.
That explains the very detailed answers!!! :-)
With you and retroplay on here we have the mechanical and electrical covered!!!
I am glad both of you are here to provide advice!
BTW, retroplay is an electrical engineer!
I must admit, both of you do go over my head at times, LoL
But that is okay, it becomes a challenge for me to research what you are explaining!
I was referring to when people have stated that after changing the components still not having the correct feel. If you change the wheel offset or tire diameter you change the scrub radius
I watched the videos and I understand your points about doing modifications, to include something as simple as changing the tire sidewall size. (OEM 40, to 45).
I watched the videos and I understand your points about doing modifications, to include something as simple as changing the tire sidewall size. (OEM 40, to 45).
Even a bigger change when you use a different wheel offset. Putting a 25 mm spacer in can really make the steering light. This on a car made for comfort more so than sportiness really amplifies it.
I hope someone who installed the Daizen bushings will chime in...
Those figs look awesome but too expensive for me...
I know, you get what you pay for, this is my wife's car and she does not drive like Danica. ;-)
Hi BGW.. sorry for late reply been busy with renovations in my home.
That kit has 4 bushings for upper control arm (both sides 2 each) .. it has 2 for lower arms (both sides 1 each) and large ones for the Castor arm (both sides 1 each)
that is the kit I used and I separately ordered Sway bushings from Daizen for the front and also steering rack bushings.
Now I know you have an SPC arm above which has no poly bushing so I personally wouldn't recommend putting poly on the 1st lower arm to keep a balance above and below.
Change the Castor though FOR SURE!, steering rack bushings, and sway bushings.. along with that , inner/outer tie rod ends, sway links (these don't cost much) and should be done same time.
for the rear do the isf sway install with isf mevotech or moog endlinks and bushing from figs I believe 17mm.
My wife's SC is back on the road after an alignment today and she drives FANTASTIC!!!
Most of the front end has now been rebuilt with bushings and parts.
The lower control arms no.1 and No.2 were removed and bushings replaced with the Daizen brand.
In addition, the front sway bar bushings were replaced Daizen and the the end links were ready to go back on...but I stayed with the originals because the Moogs were defective and went back to Rockauto.com. Rockauto paid for the return shipping! How awesome is that?
I ordered new end links, but this time I am going to try Beck Arney
I have the Daizen rack and pinion bushings, but decided not to change them out.
The inner tie rods were replaced with a set from Moog.
With that said I have replaced the following,
Upper control arms, SPC
Lower control arm bushing, Daizen
Sway bar bushings, front and rear, Daizen
Sway bar end links, front and rear, Beck Arney and Moog
Inner and outer tie rods, Moog
The car performs extremely well and I took her through some serious high speed turning today and she has never held the road so well. For those that are worried about poly bushings, I noticed a positive difference but not harsh. She still rides like a luxury sports car but handles the road much better.
Here are the instructions for the Daizen S2-2002 upper and lower control arm no.1 and no.2 bushings.
NOTE: I did not install the upper bushings (CA113 and CA114) because I already replaced the upper control arms.
I have said this before, the Daizens are good quality bushings and I really like the way the car handles and rides, a little more sporty but still Lexus smooth!
I just received complete sets of Daizen bushings from TM engineering, along with an Email from them (I assume Todd Matsubara, but it was unsigned) explaining why they no longer stock the Daizen sway bars (not enough demand for the quantity that would have to be produced). My question as to who is in charge of Daizen since the untimely demise of its founder went unanswered. Of course, the bars are still listed on both the Daizen and TM Engineering websites.
I believe I ordered them thru an Amazon listing, but it could have been EBay. In either case, they were provide by TM Engineering, and they were promptly shipped.
Edit: They were on Amazon, and the supplier is listed as TME Distributing, NOT TM Engineering, but as I said above, I'm relatively certain that Todd is still directly involved.
Last edited by Marrkk; 01-08-16 at 08:37 AM.
Reason: Correct info
I believe you are right. I notice the hub assembly is pretty much held by 2 ball joints.. The feel i get is that the hub rocks back and forth as the road goes in different angles.. Seems like very weak connection on a car so heavy. Im wondering what we can do :/ ? I notice alot of lexus have these issues. To be honest with you, my m3 had alot of issues such as SMG and what not, cost me alot to fix but I was still happy with that car as it rides properly. This car is a beauty but the ride really dissapoints me..
oh and btw I dont have spacers.. I actually had extended studs installed at the time because I was not getting enough thread and did not know about ET ultra shank.. but now I may go back to the stock studs.. or unless someone knows of another brand which make studs about 55 mm long ?
Thanks for all your help guys!
Years late, but when I used to run a 20mm H&R spacer in the front and 30mm H&R spacer in the rear with OEM is250 wheels, I had a CRAZY WOBBLE when driving as if my wheels were completely unbalanced. I took off the spacers and drove with the OEM is250 wheels with absolutely no wobble. So, I am curious about running spacers on our cars or even with extended studs, would make our cars "wobble"? It makes no sense to me, because if we were running wheels with aggressive fitments, it would be the "same". So, where does the wobble come from with the spacers on? I would like to mention that I was lowered on coilovers and had the 40mm roll center adjusters on to put my LS400 brakes on. I also had no wobble after riding with 19" wheels 19x9.5 and 10.5 +12 offset.
I just noticed the famous inner wear on my tires and was wondering if the FIGs front lower control arm bushings will help prevent this? My tires had no abnormal wear and then I drove about 5k miles and noticed my right front tire with the insane inner wear. Do you guys still have this problem with all these replaced bushings?
10-31-15, 04:09 PM
