what battery are you all going with?
08-15-13, 07:01 AM
#16
As far as advice on how to find a battery, it's pretty straight forward and easy. Most stores will have a book or computer to look up your make, model, & year. Similar to buying an oil filter. The one at my Walmart was the Everstart Maxx H6 . I believe the size of the battery is a group 48. If I'm not mistaken, the stock battery is rated at 730 Cold Cranking Amps. Unless you're starting it in zero degree weather, it doesn't have to be exactly 730. I believe the AAA battery which was in my car before was 680 CCA, and it made no difference in starting the car.
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08-15-13, 08:25 AM
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I agree with this. If you put in a new battery and it still drains in 12 days of not driving, you definitely have a bigger problem somewhere. Is there anything aftermarket in your car that could be drawing power from the battery? An aftermarket stereo, a GPS, a cell phone charger, etc? Normal shouldn't be a dead battery after 12 days. I remember leaving my car in the garage for over a month without driving/starting it, and when I came back, it started fine.
As far as advice on how to find a battery, it's pretty straight forward and easy. Most stores will have a book or computer to look up your make, model, & year. Similar to buying an oil filter. The one at my Walmart was the Everstart Maxx H6 . I believe the size of the battery is a group 48. If I'm not mistaken, the stock battery is rated at 730 Cold Cranking Amps. Unless you're starting it in zero degree weather, it doesn't have to be exactly 730. I believe the AAA battery which was in my car before was 680 CCA, and it made no difference in starting the car.
If, for some reason, you decide not to use a recommended replacement battery, make sure the terminals are on the same side as your old battery.
Buying a battery & changing it yourself is one of the easiest things you can do. Definitely not something I'd let the dealer charge me $300+ for lol.
Edit: Crap, i'm all confused now lol. I thought you (Tensi) had the problem with the starting after 12 days of not driving. After re-reading, it was Johnnyreno that had that problem.
As far as advice on how to find a battery, it's pretty straight forward and easy. Most stores will have a book or computer to look up your make, model, & year. Similar to buying an oil filter. The one at my Walmart was the Everstart Maxx H6 . I believe the size of the battery is a group 48. If I'm not mistaken, the stock battery is rated at 730 Cold Cranking Amps. Unless you're starting it in zero degree weather, it doesn't have to be exactly 730. I believe the AAA battery which was in my car before was 680 CCA, and it made no difference in starting the car.
If, for some reason, you decide not to use a recommended replacement battery, make sure the terminals are on the same side as your old battery.
Buying a battery & changing it yourself is one of the easiest things you can do. Definitely not something I'd let the dealer charge me $300+ for lol.
Edit: Crap, i'm all confused now lol. I thought you (Tensi) had the problem with the starting after 12 days of not driving. After re-reading, it was Johnnyreno that had that problem.
I can install it myself?? Eww. Thank you. I want to do that.
08-15-13, 09:10 AM
#19
My sc430 is bone stock I have 4 cars the year is 2006 has 28 thousand miles. I have been through 3 batteries, I left it un tendered for a month and it toasted the original battery. I did it again about a year later the other day I left it a week and a half had to jump it to start it. Held a charge now I have a battery tender on it, I have heard on this forum that other members cars do the same and my car is bone stock except the wheels. 
08-15-13, 10:45 AM
#20
Intermediate
I don't remember which company made the AAA battery, but when I bought the my SC, that's what was in it. Lasted 31 months with a 36-month replacement warranty, but AAA wouldn't honor it since I wasn't the original purchaser. Some other forums/websites say that AAA will do anything to weasel out of the warranty. I can understand my situation, but if I were a member and they tried to weasel out of a warranty situation, i'd be pissed lol.
08-15-13, 11:00 AM
#21
Intermediate
Thanks soo much! I definitely want to get something at least as good as the Lexus battery in it now. I fear going somewhere like Sears or Pepboys and having them just install whatever they have, and me not know its not an equivalent (or greater) battery.
I can install it myself?? Eww. Thank you. I want to do that.
I can install it myself?? Eww. Thank you. I want to do that.
08-16-13, 10:01 AM
#22
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone. Went to Autozone, got a Duralast Gold with "better" cranking. Appreciate all the help.
One more thing... gentleman said my alternator is on the way out because its volts read 13.79. And he said it should be at least 14 volts. Should I be getting this replaced asap??
Thank you for the help, as always.
One more thing... gentleman said my alternator is on the way out because its volts read 13.79. And he said it should be at least 14 volts. Should I be getting this replaced asap??
Thank you for the help, as always.
08-16-13, 10:26 AM
#24
Intermediate
Thanks everyone. Went to Autozone, got a Duralast Gold with "better" cranking. Appreciate all the help.
One more thing... gentleman said my alternator is on the way out because its volts read 13.79. And he said it should be at least 14 volts. Should I be getting this replaced asap??
Thank you for the help, as always.
One more thing... gentleman said my alternator is on the way out because its volts read 13.79. And he said it should be at least 14 volts. Should I be getting this replaced asap??
Thank you for the help, as always.
08-20-13, 08:30 AM
#25
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies, guys.
V300, that is above my skill set.
Thanks Mischievious. I was aware of that. Thats why I am hoping for some answers about the voltage on the alternator.
I searched the forum and came up empty handed. But searching google, for the forum seems to yield a few results.. just not SC430 specific. What people seem to say is that a voltage reading of 137x isn't low and that most likely I don't have an issue. Would love to hear some opinions of the knowledgeable people here, sc30 specific.
Thanks so much.
V300, that is above my skill set.
Thanks Mischievious. I was aware of that. Thats why I am hoping for some answers about the voltage on the alternator.
I searched the forum and came up empty handed. But searching google, for the forum seems to yield a few results.. just not SC430 specific. What people seem to say is that a voltage reading of 137x isn't low and that most likely I don't have an issue. Would love to hear some opinions of the knowledgeable people here, sc30 specific.
Thanks so much.
08-26-13, 04:19 PM
#27
08-26-13, 04:41 PM
#28
Advanced
The actual voltage will vary. Here is a photo of a 4 month old Interstate battery in the
SC430 ( 2004 w/103,xxx miles ) at 700 RPM idle.
Here are the official specs out of the 2004 Lexus SC430 repair manuals :
Battery Voltage
Run engine 20 minutes. Stop engine.
Turn ignition switch to ON & run headlights and blower fan for 1 minute.
Turn ignition switch to OFF.
Measure battery voltage at battery terminals. Should be 12.5 to 12.9 Volts DC @ 68 degrees
Alternator charging check
Run engine at 2,000 RPM with less that 10 Amp load.
Voltage at battery terminals should be 13.2 to 14.8 V DC.
SC430 ( 2004 w/103,xxx miles ) at 700 RPM idle.
Here are the official specs out of the 2004 Lexus SC430 repair manuals :
Battery Voltage
Run engine 20 minutes. Stop engine.
Turn ignition switch to ON & run headlights and blower fan for 1 minute.
Turn ignition switch to OFF.
Measure battery voltage at battery terminals. Should be 12.5 to 12.9 Volts DC @ 68 degrees
Alternator charging check
Run engine at 2,000 RPM with less that 10 Amp load.
Voltage at battery terminals should be 13.2 to 14.8 V DC.
08-26-13, 07:47 PM
#29
From Lexus factory repair manual:
Battery Test:
Check battery electrolyte level if other than maintenance free battery, and add distilled water as needed. If maintenance free battery and electrolyte level is too low replace battery.
If not maintenance free battery, check specific gravity - Standard is 1.25-1.29 @ 68F and charge battery if under 1.25.
After vehicle has run for 20 minutes stop engine.
Turn ignition switch on and operate the headlights, blower fan and defogger for 1 minute. Turn ignition switch off then measure battery voltage. 12.5V or greater indicates a healthy, fully charged battery.
Alternator Test Without Load:
While engine is running check from idle to 2000 RPM. With 10A or less delivered the alternator output voltage should range from 13.2V to 14.8V.
Alternator Test With Load:
With engine running at 2000 RPM, turn on the high beam headlights and place the heater blower switch on HI.
Alternator output should be 30A or more. If the ammeter is reading less than 30A the generator is defective, except when the battery is fully charged, in which case a reading of slightly less than 30A is acceptable.
I used a cigarette lighter voltmeter while driving and experienced 13.2V to 13.9V at various RPM during the drive. It seemed to settle in at around 13.75V.
Battery Test:
Check battery electrolyte level if other than maintenance free battery, and add distilled water as needed. If maintenance free battery and electrolyte level is too low replace battery.
If not maintenance free battery, check specific gravity - Standard is 1.25-1.29 @ 68F and charge battery if under 1.25.
After vehicle has run for 20 minutes stop engine.
Turn ignition switch on and operate the headlights, blower fan and defogger for 1 minute. Turn ignition switch off then measure battery voltage. 12.5V or greater indicates a healthy, fully charged battery.
Alternator Test Without Load:
While engine is running check from idle to 2000 RPM. With 10A or less delivered the alternator output voltage should range from 13.2V to 14.8V.
Alternator Test With Load:
With engine running at 2000 RPM, turn on the high beam headlights and place the heater blower switch on HI.
Alternator output should be 30A or more. If the ammeter is reading less than 30A the generator is defective, except when the battery is fully charged, in which case a reading of slightly less than 30A is acceptable.
I used a cigarette lighter voltmeter while driving and experienced 13.2V to 13.9V at various RPM during the drive. It seemed to settle in at around 13.75V.
Last edited by SC43052; 08-26-13 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Addition