Speaker blown - can I just disconnect?
#1
Speaker blown - can I just disconnect?
My passenger side door speaker is blown and I won't have time to get it repaired/replaced for about a month. It is driving me bat-squeaking insane every time I drive so is there a convenient place to disconnect it temporarily without harming the system?
In dire need!! Much appreciated!! Thanks!
In dire need!! Much appreciated!! Thanks!
#4
It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to dig down to the speaker, so if you go that route, while you are there, you might as well just repair it with silicon as mentioned in earlier threads. That would only add another 10 to 15 minutes to your over all time.
You could attack it from the trunk where the amp is but then you'll have to study the schematic to determine which wire you need to pull out of the connector. However, I doubt that you'll save any time going this route.
You could attack it from the trunk where the amp is but then you'll have to study the schematic to determine which wire you need to pull out of the connector. However, I doubt that you'll save any time going this route.
#6
It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to dig down to the speaker, so if you go that route, while you are there, you might as well just repair it with silicon as mentioned in earlier threads. That would only add another 10 to 15 minutes to your over all time.
You could attack it from the trunk where the amp is but then you'll have to study the schematic to determine which wire you need to pull out of the connector. However, I doubt that you'll save any time going this route.
You could attack it from the trunk where the amp is but then you'll have to study the schematic to determine which wire you need to pull out of the connector. However, I doubt that you'll save any time going this route.
Can someone link to the specific thread on the silicone fix?
#7
I did the silicone fix and it lasted about 6 months. I would suggest getting the repair kit. The biggest trouble is taking the doors off. When my silicone went bad the other side went bag too , so I just got a kit for both of them.
That was over a year ago and they both have held up
That was over a year ago and they both have held up
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#8
I will say, if we're referring to the subwoofers in the door (ie. the larger, lowermost speaker), I changed them out to the 8ohm Rockford Fosgate mids that were recommended in another post on this forum and have not been disappointed at all. While I had the door panels off, I also chose to silicone fix the other two door speakers, the mid and tweeter. The sound is amazing with really deep rich bass. I, of course, had a little vibration and narrowed it down to the locking mechanism base plate which just needed some external tightening (very easy). Then I also changed out the rear speakers to 4" 4ohm Rockford Fosgates. B'c they are 4ohm rather than the 8ohm stock they do have more power coming to them and therefore are louder, but I just used the headunit to move the fader slightly to the front. In a thread I started, I had already changed out the subwoofer to a 16ohm series wired speaker, so the bass from the rear seat was already thumping. I highly recommend this mod for long term satisfaction, if you feel like doing the entire project in one, fell swoop since you'll have the door panels off anyway. To mount the speakers you will have to buy some adapter plates (very cheap on Ebay), and then do a little bit of modification to them. In the end I am much happier for doing it all at once. It gives you amazing sound without the ghetto, shake the block bass. Plus, in my honest opinion RF makes great products that will last.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 09-17-13 at 10:17 AM.
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