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Well shortly after purchase I started having an issue with the top getting kind of caught up when I would try to open it up from the closed position. Everything else worked flawless as far as the operation of it in the opening and closing process. When I would hit the open button the trunk would pop open, windows would drop, package tray would pop up, and you could hear the front latches pop open then the top would attempt to lift and would get maybe a 1/4" separation from the windshield frame then stop and you could hear the motor trying to lift it but going nowhere. I had a system down to where when it would get to this point I would let off the button and let it settle then hit the button, let it settle, and usually doing this three to four times it would open with kind of a pop. Now initially it appeared that it was getting hung up on the front latch, but after a while the more I paid attention to it the pop sound was coming from behind my head. So I figured that the top was binding somewhere, after a little inspection I found some hex head screws that seemed to be right around the area where the noise was coming from. So I opened the top and looked around and you can see where the hex headed screw is a set stop for part of the roof and it had either worn a little bit or backed out a little bit. Either way it was allowing the top to settle in a spot that was causing the binding and keeping the scissor action from happening properly. There is also a set screw that keeps the adjustable screw from backing out. I loosened the set screw, and raised the adjustment up where it meets the metal pad on the top and tried it again. Got a little better, raised it a little more and what do you know it now opened up just fine. I have read a couple of posts that sounded similar to my issue so I hope this is the same fix for you guys. I have attached some pictures. First picture shows where on the roof the adjustment is from the outside. Second picture shows the two hex head screws, one for adjustment, and one to lock it down once you have adjusted it correctly. Third shows where the adjustment screw meets the metal pad on the top and rests. Fourth is another view of where it meets the pad on the top. When adjusting you are going to raise the screw to effectively raise the roof and keep it from binding. -Chris
This is honestly great. I think you may have just found the cause of rattling in the roof.. check this thread , i referenced your thread and also took a pic from this thread, hope you dont mind. But tell me this, do you get any rattling? I wana try covering the head of the bolt with something soft and see if it stops the rattling, im 99% sure thats what my issue is.
I was actually going to post in your other thread and tell you to read this and see if it was your issue. Mine started to rattle and get a little worse, after the adjustment it is quiet.
I was actually going to post in your other thread and tell you to read this and see if it was your issue. Mine started to rattle and get a little worse, after the adjustment it is quiet.
Ya to be honest i was looking for a diagram so i can see what the inside looks like because the way it sounds points to exactly what you have shown. So you have made it very easy for me! thankyou again! to keep the top in that position, did you also turn off your car while opening/closing top like townsville? I was worried about how I can keep it up and not cause any issues. And I dont think im going to adjust it but I might just cover the head of the screw with a rubber bump pad!
Thank, you excellent pictures as well. I have an IS250c, but the roof set up is almost identical. Like JC said, it will save one of us big bucks down the road.
to keep the top in that position, did you also turn off your car while opening/closing top like townsville? I was worried about how I can keep it up and not cause any issues. And I dont think im going to adjust it but I might just cover the head of the screw with a rubber bump pad!
When I did it I had the engine off ignition on, I was listening to the radio while I was doing it. There is kind of a sweet spot where it doesn't try and fall back to the closed position or keep dropping into the trunk. Shouldn't cause any kind of issue doing it this way, and it made it much faster to check my adjustments by not having it open or closed and really I think this is the only way you can really get to it. I would be skeptical about a rubber bump stop because of the load placed on that pinch point in the closed position. I would think it would just cut right through the rubber. Maybe teflon or some kind of poly? -Chris
Great post re the grub screw adjustment. Yes, there is a sweet spot where the roof stays open, allowing you to make adjustments, and to lube the roof rubbers with glycerol. The SC 430 roof can be a challenge when it comes down to chasing rattles, creaks etc., especially if you are fussy (like moi)
On the assumption that over time, the roof rubbers will compress, I found that (opposite to the original poster) lowering my roof using the screw head adjustment helped greatly!
When I did it I had the engine off ignition on, I was listening to the radio while I was doing it. There is kind of a sweet spot where it doesn't try and fall back to the closed position or keep dropping into the trunk. Shouldn't cause any kind of issue doing it this way, and it made it much faster to check my adjustments by not having it open or closed and really I think this is the only way you can really get to it. I would be skeptical about a rubber bump stop because of the load placed on that pinch point in the closed position. I would think it would just cut right through the rubber. Maybe teflon or some kind of poly? -Chris
sorry for the late reply byrnech, I lost track of a few threads.. Im going to attempt this when its warm here.. too cold out
I know this thread is quite old, but the content is good. I've had my 2002 for the past 16 years. I had it lowered and ride on 20s for the past 10 years. I'm at about 175k miles. There has never been a top creak or pop, until about 6 months ago. Sounded like it was coming from behind me, drivers side, and would happen on some, not all, bumps. I think it was more of a function of how the particular bump or dip caused the car to twist. Eventually, the symptoms progressed to also include a popping noise from the front latches as the roof was opening. I see too many threads/posts where the 'fix' is lubricants, or tape, or blaming the lowered suspension, or just blaming it on entropy and accepting it.
If you have a 3mm allen wrench and 10 minutes, you need to try this first.
The OP pics were great, so I snipped one to add a few more details. I adjusted my roof with it 'halfway' open, as demonstrated in the OP pics.
I ADJUSTED EACH SIDE ONLY 1/2 TURN CLOCKWISE (thus, two 1/4 turns). I probably could've started with only 1/4 turn and stopped if it proved sufficient (i.e., test drive).
I drove my typical route this morning with the top closed. Same roads. No creaks. No pops. Car is quiet again.
But I still plan to put the top down next chance I get!
Last edited by degmla; 04-29-24 at 11:44 AM.
Reason: spelling
10-05-13, 04:52 PM
Top Opening Issue Fixed... Details Inside
I have read a couple of posts that sounded similar to my issue so I hope this is the same fix for you guys. I have attached some pictures. First picture shows where on the roof the adjustment is from the outside. Second picture shows the two hex head screws, one for adjustment, and one to lock it down once you have adjusted it correctly. Third shows where the adjustment screw meets the metal pad on the top and rests. Fourth is another view of where it meets the pad on the top. When adjusting you are going to raise the screw to effectively raise the roof and keep it from binding. -Chris
