SunnyG

Have noticed some pink fluid seeping around top of radiator, which has created a bit of a mess in the engine bay. is this indicative of a radiator leak? I don't see any visible cracks, however not much of the radiator is viewable. if replacement is necessary, what OEM alternates are recommended? car is running fine and not overheating. it's an '02 sc430 with 171K miles.

kjcole

Sure looks like a leak at the top tank. Pretty straightforward job. I don't like to cheap out on radiators. Check with Sewell?

DarthSid

Sewell has the radiator listed at approximately $369.55 bucks.

SunnyG

thanks kjcole, checked sewell with our CL discount is $271 which seems reasonable. should thermostat be changed at same time?

SC43052

I just replaced my radiator last week. My leak was just under the top radiator hose neck, where the plastic top of the radiator meets the aluminum core.

I purchased this unit manufactured by KoyoRad (the OE supplier to Toyota) for $166. It fit perfectly with no issues.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...=2172@Radiator

None of the radiator units come with replacement foam, used by the factory to seal the radiator so more air is directed through the radiator and debris doesn't collect behind it. But the installation without the foam runs just as it did before with no increase in temperature on the gauge, so I won't worry about it.

If you have no other work to do later I would definitely do the thermostat now. I need to do my timing belt, water pump, pulleys, crank oil seal later this year so I will do the thermostat then.

SunnyG

does the oem radiator come with the replacement foam? koyorad units seem to get good revlews as well. i also need to do the timing belt/water pump later this year, so may put off thermostat until then too.

SC43052

From what I can tell, the foam does NOT come with the part if purchased from the dealer either, and there is no separate PN for the foam as far as I can tell.

Some people have purchased self-adhesive window or door foam tape and cobble together their own. Others have carefully removed the foam from the old radiator with a razor blade and then used new double-sticky tape to reuse it.

I kept the old radiator so that I could test if running without the foam made any difference, and it doesn't seem to.

SunnyG

thanks for all the input everyone, truly helps. how soon do you think this needs to be done? only wondering if I should take it to a shop this week or if I can hold out on ordering the part and getting it installed within the month.

kjcole

Sometimes they leak for quite awhile and you just keep topping off the reservoir - other times cracks at hose inlet/outlets let go entirely or tank cracks open up and coolant gushes out. Remember that there is considerable pressure so it doesn't take much to blow the coolant entirely. I can't estimate the risk without knowing the nature of the leak.

Here's an OEM DENSO for under $200 and free shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-GE...de9cd5&vxp=mtr

If you are even just a little handy with a wrench (and have a nice assortment of wrenches, sockets and extension bars) this is a pretty easy DIY in your own garage. Good chance to change the upper and lower radiator hoses too.

FLYCT

It's not worth taking the risk of blowing out all coolant and overheating. If it overheats you risk warped heads etc.

Don't wait.

kjcole

FLYCT -- yes, that's my approach too. A slight drip because a hose clamp loosened up - I might not get to it right away. Coolant leaks due to cracks in plastic or waterpump issues, I tend to do them right away because they are a ticking time bomb. Towing, risk of warped heads, etc,

SC43052

Way too great a risk for such an expensive engine.

A joint between heat fatigued metal and plastic is totally unpredictable. It could last months with a slow leak, but then again tomorrow a large gash could open up and it could throw up coolant all over the highway.

At the very least you face a tow (might be free from AAA, but Murphy's Law says it will happen when you can least afford the inconvenience), at worst you risk getting caught where you can't pull off and turning an otherwise bullet-proof engine into an expensive warped nightmare. Overheating stresses everything in an all aluminum engine and gaskets are compromised. Even the transmission fluid should be changed after overheating.

Unless you know your route, keep your eyes glued to the temp gauge, can guarantee you won't trapped and will only drive it a day or two, IMHO park it now until you get the radiator.

The KoyoRad unit from AutoHausAZ actually shipped from California where you are, so I would guess you would have it in 1 or 2 days from order. I had mine in two days in Scottsdale.

SunnyG

was able to find a local distributor that carries the denso. unfortunately they dropped off the wrong one today (aftermarket unit -- csf), but they will swap it out tomorrow. for the coolant, was going to go with the toyota super long life. how many gallons are required?

SC43052

Cooling system capacity is 10.5 quarts. In CA you are safe with 50/50 mix with distilled water. 5.25 quarts of Toyota red, which is sold by the gallon.

However, if your coolant isn't that old just drain the radiator (a little over a gallon) and not the block. Then you will need less than a gallon of red when mixed with the distilled water.

SunnyG

thanks for the input and advice everyone. my friend's father who is a retired bmw mechanic handled the install, said it was fairly straightforward. here are some after pics as well as the denso part number. after looking up the denso part number online, looks like it can be had fairly cheap online, so maybe it will help someone out in the future.