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Hey thanks, that looks so easy as compared to what I had envisioned.
A few questions:
Did you have to cut any kind of hole, or is the cap visible from the top? Is it screw off? Never mind, I see you had to slice the metal and peel it back.
Is this the first step to do before you replace your entire charcoal canister? (Unlike many cars that have the canister under the hood, the SC's is over the gas tank) Do they sell the cap separate?
How much trouble is dropping the tank? Have others made this repair without cutting a hole from above?
I learned the hard way thirty years ago to not top off while filling up, as it can lead to evap trouble codes! A Toyota charcoal canister is an expensive part! I avoided buying a new one by airing it out and not topping-off from then on. Most people aren't aware of the fall-out from topping-off and mistakenly think it is just "the man" telling them what to do (for environmental reasons).
I think most people replace the Evap. Canister unnecessarily, when the real problem is a cracked overfill check valve on top of the tank. The previous owner of my car replaced the canister, but it still had the offensive gasoline odor outside of the car. I too wanted to drop the tank to replace the check valve, it just seemed like too much work compared to simply cutting a hole. Dropping the tank is an all day job involving removing sections of the exhaust, removing heat shields, braces, removing the propeller shaft, draining the tank and disconnecting several fuel & vacuum lines. Do you replace the exhaust gaskets, fuel and vacuum lines? For me the best solution was to cut a hole and save time and money. The problem was figuring out where to cut, I hope the pictures help anyone that wants to do it this way. Don't forget to replace check valve gasket (77177-33010 GASKET, CHECK VALVE). Also, here's the part number for the check valve (77390-30071 VALVE ASSY, FUEL TANK).
Thought I had replied to this already so hope it's not a duplicate. I did this in my GS300 today and these pictures did help but they are not exact for what I needed. The GS is different than the SC or IS that you find most of the info about. It has a brace that goes across right where the panel needs to be cut and it makes this a more difficult DIY for cutting a panel vs dropping the tank. Luckily my dad had a carbide bit that is specifically make to drill out tack welds otherwise the cutting of the panel would have been a no go. For most people the only real way to do this on a GS is to drop the tank. Below is a picture of where you need to cut and the only way to do so it to lift up the brace that is tack welded to the floor. I was able to get it done and knowing what I know now I could do it in less than an hour but I had to slightly hack mine since we didn't know what we were getting into when we started. Also, the GS is pushed in and held in with the gasket like the SC and not like the IS which has a retailing clip with 6 screws.
Thought I had replied to this already so hope it's not a duplicate. I did this in my GS300 today and these pictures did help but they are not exact for what I needed. The GS is different than the SC or IS that you find most of the info about. It has a brace that goes across right where the panel needs to be cut and it makes this a more difficult DIY for cutting a panel vs dropping the tank. Luckily my dad had a carbide bit that is specifically make to drill out tack welds otherwise the cutting of the panel would have been a no go. For most people the only real way to do this on a GS is to drop the tank. Below is a picture of where you need to cut and the only way to do so it to lift up the brace that is tack welded to the floor. I was able to get it done and knowing what I know now I could do it in less than an hour but I had to slightly hack mine since we didn't know what we were getting into when we started. Also, the GS is pushed in and held in with the gasket like the SC and not like the IS which has a retailing clip with 6 screws.
How did you pull that thing out of there? I have been trying to remove from Junkyard cars before trying on mine and can't seem to remove them without them breaking. Any suggestions?
How did you pull that thing out of there? I have been trying to remove from Junkyard cars before trying on mine and can't seem to remove them without them breaking. Any suggestions?
Mine pulled up and didn't twist of of anything. The lower half snapped off on me and fell down into the tank. I don't think it will be an issue but nothing I can do about it. The new one just pushed in. So far the piece that fell in the tank hasn't been an issue. They are pressed in and have a rubber section that is kind of like a barb. It will push in but near impossible to get back out. With their old age, I'm sure a majority are going to break off instead of coming out in one piece.
I suspect the Evap system is trying to kill me slowly. Background: I purchased the car in September of 2021 with 107K miles on the clock.
After a short while the money light came on, and I found P-codes 0440, 0441, and 0446. I replaced cracked vacuum lines as well as the VSV for CCV (vent valve). Then a short while later money light came back with codes P0441 and 0446 (progress of a sort), so I replaced (twice) the VSV for Evap (purge valve). All under the hood and not terribly expensive so....
And now I'm getting the money light once again, but at least just a P0440.
Using the FSM in conjunction with Techstream, the problem was diagnosed to be in the canister or fuel tank section. Testing with the VSV for Pressure Switching Valve (Bypass valve) in the OFF state and the vent line blocked I did a smoke test on the canister that passed, and even better was supported by holding vacuum during diagnostics.
So, using Techstream to open the bypass valve I once again injected smoke and found smoke coming from the overfill valve (and nowhere else - at least for now).
I considered dropping the fuel tank and changing all the hoses in that area too but looking at all that has to come out, the lazy part of my brain kicked in. So, I will be following those pioneers that cut a hole in their floor. Wish me luck that the Evap gods will smile on me for a few months anyway.
Special shout out for the where to cut pics on the SC430 - thanks - @bmanone
Am I missing something or is cutting through metal and producing SPARKS going to ignite an area where known gasoline fumes are present...........???
Not using an angle grinder or any other power tool, and while I'm not a metal worker, I've never seen tin/aviation snips produce sparks. Do I have incorrect thinking, or am I missing something?
if you say you didnt use a power tool....thats a safer way to do it rather than cut with a grinder.
I didnt see any pilot holes drilled in each corner which is usually the way to get thick tin snips into the metal, I "assumed" you used a cutting wheel due to the clean cuts. Glad it went well and it ended up without a hitch.
Sorry for jumping in. I thought you were asking me the question. I haven't actually done the job yet. Still in planning stage. I was replying to the guys who had done it before me about the location of the valve.
In any case, I believe both forum members that posted pics used tin snips, but probably did drill a small hole first.
I drilled a pilot hole and then used tin snips. All of this was done with the top down in a well ventilated open garage. I also drilled stress relief holes at the termination of the cuts to help prevent crack growth just in case any load was carried in this section of the sheet metal body structure. If you are in the rust belt, you'll probable want to coat the exposed metal of the cut edges with paint before taping. I hope this helps.
03-04-20, 09:44 AM
