LexBrett

Yep!! Got the car started tonight with the headlights ON. But ONLY with the cone filter off. The engine dies when I put back on the filter. Seems that engine is starving for more air! Perhaps there is a hunk of carbon that was dislodged and there is some sort of blockage!? Planning on running seafoam through the pic tomorrow. Battery was at 14.1 volts while running. It could be a bad ecu but it feels like the intake is clogged and not getting enough air! No codes on computer today! Made a video and will try to post tomorrow

Bgw70

Does the car still run rough if you increase the throttle?

I would wait on the seafoam...

Do you still have the OEM intake tube, if so, install it and see if it helps. You do not need to put the airbox or air filter back in, this is just for testing purposes.

Bgw70

Front center engine, where throttle body is bolted to intake.<br/>Check for missing or cracked rubber.





I replaced this vacuum line because it cracked, the rubber is becoming very brittle on my car due to age and heat.





Check PCV hose.

Bgw70

This was the OEM vacuum line, note the split on the end.

Bgw70

If all of the vacuum lines are good you may be running on seven cylinders, you may have a bad coil or a connector is loose.

Remember, this problem showed up the day you worked on the intake and the headlight...

LexBrett

But wouldn't the computer throw a code if there was a bad coil!??

Bgw70

Do not go down that rabbit hole yet. Check for vacuum leaks...please answer these questions.

When you increase throttle does the engine smooth out?

Will you try the OEM air intake tube? You have mentioned several times that the aftermarket intake tube is loose or things fall off.

Can you hear any hissing?

Pull off the PCV vacuum hose end and put your thumb over it. Does it help?

Here is An old trick to check for vacuum leaks. Take some carb cleaner or the throttle body/MAF cleaner and spray it around all of the vacuum lines and vacuum connections. If the engine changes how it running you found a leak.

LexBrett

Hey Buddy, thanks for the message. Responses to your questions:

1. Idle does smooth out when I depress the throttle, but not completely sure and will check again after work

2. No don't have the OEM intake box anymore, but I'm going to tighten everything down today and see what happens

3. Don't really hear an audible hissing, not that I can detect at least

4. Have not physically checked PCV valve yet, but will do that also after work. If I put my finger on the valve and throttle smoothes, what would that indicate? I did just change it a few weeks ago..

Will spray carb cleaner today to see if idle changes and will report back!

Any other suggestions?

Also, I recorded a video and planned to post but CL doesn't support the file format?

LexBrett

Here are a couple videos I posted to Youtube showing the rough idle, battery voltage, etc. Let me know what you all think. Will post video of carb cleaner check for leaks today too!

LexBrett

Hey all; here is my update! Before I go through all my testing, I want to report I'm getting s LEAN code!! Thought that was because I took off cone are filter, before the MAF, to get her to run. But before the MAF shouldn't trigger a lean code. No? Does that necessarily indicate I do indeed have a vacuum leak? Please advise!!

Other the testing;
1. Could not get off the Pcv valve, but I did clean it to no avail. It's a new pcv valve by the way.

2. Sprayed Carb cleaner all over engine. Idle did not change, but hard to tell because idle rough already.

3. Looked for open vacuum lines and or connections. Nothing. Perhaps I need to do a smoke test?

Please let me know your thoughts!

LexBrett

Well it's not looking good. Also had a buddy from Advance Auto take a look today and he is baffled as well. He think that it may be a bad Ecu given the continuous random misfire.

To date I have checked the O2 sensor, maf, pcv valve, inspected for loose connections and vacuum lines, sprayed carb cleaner on engine to find potential leak...

Do you all have any thoughts on what would be required for a DIY Ecu replacement???

Radical350

I feel your pain.
I previously owned an SC430 had a similar issue, to keep it short...
The SRT Intake was rubbing, so I shortened it by 4-5mm and it never worked again.

The car went in to limp mode (barely idling, but running)
Changed to an Injen Intake and it ran perfect again.
Maybe you could borrow a different intake to test with?

LexBrett

Wow thanks for responding. It's hard to imagine that the intake could cause all these problems. I have a modded SRT intake as well. Do you have any idea of how to get out of 'limp' mode? Thought limp mode was when the tranny wasn't funtioning correctly and car would stay in 3rd gear? I have reset the Ecu several times to no avail. Where you getting any codes when this happened to you?

Any CL members that have an extra intake I could borrow to test? Please let me know :-))

LexBrett

My next step is going to be to swap the Throttle Position Sensor. We will see. Have to at least rule it out..

LexBrett

Changed the throttle position sensor tonight with high hopes. Nothing. Engine still stumbles with random misfire. I'm coming close to running out of patience. Haven't spect too much cash so far but already starting to feel like a money pit.

My testing and replacement has thus far has included:
-pcv valve
-O2 sensor
-tps sensor
-Maf
-Sprayed carb cleaner for vacuum leaks

Will give it a few more weeks max but not sure if I can stand much more. Next round of tests:

-Smoke test for vacuum leaks
-Voltage testing on Ecu (just bought repair manual and testing process is explained)
-unhook headlight to rule out stray ground problem

It just dawned on me tonight rather my issue is far more likely related to my accident and evil mechanic than a headlight change.

Suggestions and/or pep talk appreciated..