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You know how your TV has a red yellow and white input (RCA) and then it has the red, blue, green, yellow & red input (RGB). Beatsonic told me The Lexus display uses that kind of input. Beatsonics, converts the input. You need to find an adapter that does like wise. If you do, let us know. I looked for one briefly and nothing obvious came up.
The streaming box I have also has an HDMI out, Perhaps an HDMI to composite video adapter, then wire directly to the screen. I wonder if that would work. I see Retroplay has done a ton of work on this type of thing, but haven't seen a schematic of the harness that would show which inputs to use for the RGB composite input in the screen connector. I have the streaming box connected to an isimple rf modulator so the sound is working, and I hear the streaming box loading music.
The mirror link 5g streamer works great, no lag, no disconnects, it has a triggered input wire and RCA inputs to add a backup camera, can be hardwired with a lightning cable that charges the phone, and has both RCA and HDMI out. If there is a way to hardwire and bypass the factory nav, you could add mirroring, back up camera and wireless audio for about $150 in parts and maintain factory look.
These are the two components I am attempting to use:
What if you purchased a replacement screen with the ability to connect the adapter system you displayed in our post?
Thats a possibility. Either that or maybe putting a Garmin in the slot. My only concern there would be if there was anything that needed to be connected/ grounded from the factory harness that goes into the screen to make everything else work if it is integrated into other components. I was trying to keep it as factory as possible(and under $200) I may just break down and do the beat sonic and use a head unit with a video out and CarPlay and use it as an auxiliary screen for the gps and a backup camera. Everyone seems to love the beat sonic, and compared to . How has your experience been with it?
Thats a possibility. Either that or maybe putting a Garmin in the slot. My only concern there would be if there was anything that needed to be connected/ grounded from the factory harness that goes into the screen to make everything else work if it is integrated into other components. I was trying to keep it as factory as possible(and under $200) I may just break down and do the beat sonic and use a head unit with a video out and CarPlay and use it as an auxiliary screen for the gps and a backup camera. Everyone seems to love the beat sonic, and compared to . How has your experience been with it?
beat sonic is expensive but I like it. I have it in both of my SC430s.
i split the video signal from the backup camera so it feeds both the upper screen and the lower screen on the radio. I don’t even have the backup camera turned on in the radio anymore, just use the upper.
the radios do have video outputs but they only output video when a DVD is playing...I wish it was a mirror output.
Retroplay - I skimmed your whole thread. Very fun to read. I'm also an EE (by education) ... only do hobby electronics - but I do like to tinker a bit when I have the time.
I recently purchased a 2002 SC430 with ML system. The car is in pristine condition but the audio system is certainly an antique.
Three thoughts keep running through my head. 1) reverse engineer the IEBus to make my own interface, 2) hack into the existing head unit to add my own AuxIn inside the head unit by taking over either the tape or CD analog system inside the unit itself, or 3) screw it and just pay the money for the Beatsonic interface and put in a modern head unit.
I've been toying with something similar to what you did: use a Raspberry PI to drive the Nav unit screen (and replace the screen like you did with a high res screen), then plumb the audio into the stock system. The Pi is so darned cheap with a full linux system, that it would be pretty fun to do.
What I've been having a hard time doing is getting enough information on the IEBus interface. Ideally, I'd use a small microcontroller to do the IEBus interfacing, then have it talk to the Pi. Did you finally get a good solid IEBus controller designed?
The second question is that it looks like you had the same idea of tapping into the tape deck's analog audio output. Where did you tap into and what circuit did you use between your BT interface and the analog in? Did you have to do any level shifting on the signals?
The pioneer head unit has a very good 13 band equalizer and a adjustable dynamic range expander. Woke up the ML. The beat sonic combined with the pioneer makes the car.
stock radios was flat in response. I think the radio intentionally was made to not stress the speakers. Or show rattles in the car? No rattles.
The pioneer and the ML can really make the doors jump.
If you are a sound fan especially with the top down the aftermarket head and the beatsonic setup is a great addition to the car.
plus it can send a dvd video to the top screen and the beatsonic turns the steering wheel controls into a front to back fader. Really helpful
AHA, so you're the guy who wired that recchid republican representative (I don't=Geatz) with the Sha Na Na greaser cut and Ric Ocasek/David Byrne suit...I had a feeling he had those "anti cat electric shock plastic wires" embedded in his pants seat so he could bring us democrats from the north to cry "there will be order in this house...is there a EE here"! if it was you or us who triggered it/him, no wonder he was screaming like it was an actual FIRE!! I'd pay at parties to get him "out of his seat" permanently but alas.
I'm a no brainer on complex issues with my 02 sc, first off tho, congrats on your not getting a low S/N numbered radio steering interface. I'm only assuming but I do know Lex put a recall in 2003, and I don't know if some cars had the earlier defect (your dealer if known may have records of the recall/repl). I have suffered terror at the wheel at 18 mph with my wife (yours is cute, unless thats your daughter-tell her I think the latter, and don't kill me!), b/c apparently the one I have has the slight inconvenience of suddenly BLASTING OUT into FULL VOLUME, ALL SPEAKERS, with any provocation of the vol settings (I had adjusted for lower peak vol., and boy it probably blew at lest 3 speakers prev. owner no doubt blew previously!!). Do check the front fascia appearance of the radio face plate (I am not sure which#'s it had but I think is was something like 88412, but I will look at my old dealer stuff if you want! You DO NOT want to have this crank your speakers out of the convertible, top up or not, it's not that bad, it's WAY WORSE...it stops when you turn off the unit..then acts normal for another blast anywhere from a month to shorter (as if it had a built in Japanese sadist waiting til you think it just "settled in". I wimped out of replacing the amp out of warr...but taping the s. wheel switches fixed it too.
-Umm I wasn't lucky to trust taking apart the CD unit, and started with the tempting Ebay/Safelite repair...and after $500 at Best BUy install saying the "reman" wasn't working, back to Lex. dealer, who grooved me through TWO radios yeah, repaired by the love goddesses at Lex/Toy auth parts for $900 part/$200 labro...and yo bro, the system had exactly ZERO new radios in the computer nationwide (except perhaps TX, where radios are whittle down for Trump wall material, or Rango the Sherrif.
I still feel my parents were telling me something atter I visited their grave when thec cd player started getting screwy-it was loading cd #s but then "forgetting them" on display, with the little black circles looking like I'd not put a single disc. Each time I tried ejecting subseqent discs, it would display-disappear more of ones already in. Once I think I got them out, and while one might have had a hairline scratch, and some were from mfrs. not on the Tower Records purchase box of mine (i.e off of Barnes/NOble music mag "free cd's), so maybe some were lighter than others, but I didn't' scale weight them.
Take it for warning that the age of these units is not to be taken for granted. Oh yea, and I got out a couple by holding up the door and trying a rubber tip chop stick, but this was bizzare. I believe I got most discs out by unplugging the car battery 30" but the dealer added injury by sending out the radio w. o removal of discs, so at least $150 off on that one...wow!!
My point is, that CD player NEEDS to be played frequently, and discs should be ejected and reentered gently after each use of all of em. Theres a reason why the top on yours did not so good biz flipping towards the next one...I happen to believe these have a 25 percent chance "reman" successful rate, so I count your chances as just a little better, despite your talent and effort.
YOU may want to save your labors for your beautiful lady and save for a Pioneer Avic and one of those $450 laughable "interfaces" from CA (I just could'nt see payiing a grand to go non stock). SO USE your CD player discs like a old LP changer...make sure each is equal aize (depth), quality, and the spinner holes are totally identical (I don't even do that, and no, I don't play the player a lot, fearing another fail b/c of fragility per above).
-OK, as far as lighting, I got the BEST results of anyone in sales telling me why I should get equal wattage or less using LED. I think I started by checking out 16 or 24 "COB" (I guess b/c it looks like corn cob) for the door footwells and side puddle door ones, later finding I could fit 24 or more into the "door driver/pass" overhead. I much prefer soft white 3600K, so maybe smaller are better for those wanting LG refrigerator interior 6000 blue white useless ones. Reality-the overhead ones are so bright that I have to be real careful not to be looking at them at hight while driving...they are probably too bright, but I still have pretty good eyes, having been in a KIss tribute band in my teens with 'flash powder pots' strobes and bubble machines goin off-COL!!
WARNING: be careful what you light the trunk with...there is a stupidity feature by which if you accidentally leave the trunk ajar/unlocked, popped up almost invisibly from the side...you will have a dead car in AM. I have been trying to get something that the two trunk bulb/light/lenses could handle, but w.o adding a auto trunk sensor like almost every VOLVO or Porsche has etc, it seems like working against myself. IF you have scoured ebay/net and know an EASILY installed one, do let me know. I even got an 8 ft reel of led tape, but again, this would pale to calling triple A in winter if I screw up the 3rd time with that dumb trunk!
-I am impressed you've got a little whip (antenna). PLs. don't hurt anyone, as it kills me you've gotten that in the stock hole-I have replaced them 2x from car wash forgetfulness! I'm afraid you may see a decrease in FM sensitivity, but more importantly, I've been playing a little with that ancient NAV, and I'm starting to suspect the NAV is losing its calibration if indeed it is poorly conneccted to the FM antenna (not sure)? I come out and it thinks its sev. miles west..til I recalibrate-but I never used to have to.
Again, if you've a moment (!), pls. send a pic or brand/model for that antenna, amplified or not?
-Finalle: I am looking for someone able to make up a system (harness, override switch) that would allow me to use a small "off road, square or rectangular" light bar, that would fit INSIDE the grille. It seems with HID/LED, most of mfr stuff is junk (ebay/amazon), or ridiculously priced (I actually want it to come on automatically when hiigh beams are on from the stalk, not have to switch it eech time). I also believe they stopped designing on road aftermarket lighting for cars in general, but no one I've seen really has a good solution for the DRL/HIGH BEAM system on the 2002...either its drls will run at full high beam level, pissing others off and law taking notice, OR no high beams if you want DRL or vice versa!!!
I'm hoping there are something with the shape/size of what used to be the Hella or Cibies used on Lamborghinis, BMWs in the 80's/early 90's. I ain't talking the "DRL" strip lights which wantonly throw beam pattern everywhere but the useful road ahead!!
If you ever have time to put it together, I'd be interested...maybe you would think about similar for your car? Not to nag, and oh, btw, you are aware the CRT for nav, if thats what you want to use with chromecast (Not that I'm crazy about that system) beware the monitor itself is limited by age and a not terribly 21st century display. I would think if you are as talented as you seem, you might consider replacing the screen with another modern board ,but I don't know if it will still fold, close the lid.
Insofar as police chatter, that's a way to put passengers to sleep, usually. IN the 80's there was a system for patrol car "booster" signals that would have an alarm for local cop warning. I know people doing Cannonball in 34 hours or less have sev. types of monitor systems, and tricked out cars, but you'd prob be removing the rear seat for that.
Uhh, whch brings me to the last, non-elecctronic query, which I hope you get a kick out of: is there a way to shave off PART of the back seats (i.e shorten bottom, and make it foldable up to a more hollowed and angled upper back, like a double clamshell AND THEN being able to actually fold the front seat backs at least to 40 deg or so? The back seat is useless, but I don't mean to just 'pull it out' (that's my daughter's job, only from mouth, not of ability). It really is a cramped car on 100+ mi trips when you can't get the passenger comfy w.o bringing a chain saw. I wonder if making the seat back would screw up air bag geometry.
Anyways, no body's done it, so it prob. aint the money-but I'm lmfao at the new convertible LS500 with a rear seat no better than mine after more than 2 decades! I'd consider an IS350 for next convertible, but they just seem so Altezza/Corolla looking, and not as nice an engine, despite reliability.
I do like the color you got, which was almost the same as my plum BBS 1995 Miata MX edition.
P.S...why do you want to integrate it with a "headunit with full vehicle bus integration"? Is that a school bus or a commercial one-whoops, guess you missed an 'S' and me a brain. Good luck and let me know if you have any long distance equipment semi-installable-ready LED brands/models of driving light bars or "eyes" (there are small Mini Cooper led lights on their recent models, but I don't want to bolt to bumper esterior!!!!)to recommend I look at! And get your virus shot before integrating all the car's new goodies to an old car set up-may make the car more vulnerable to a virus. Keep the top down this year, you'll love it til' they outlaw breathing. Best wishes-John 02 sc430 75K mi, pilot a/s t +3, led interior, blue sheepskins on eccru/indigo ink, one accident (r.s door and hood repaint), prev. owner left a hole in back fender size of a triangle can-hand cutter indent-covered with custom "Soarer" labels, rear Soarer tags.
MECHANICAL BONUS QUERY ANYONE: The car has for many years felt very tranny hesitative IN REVERSE> I had some "bonded transmission co" look at it and they tried to scare me into service saying ti could ruin rear bearing or something if I don't act now". I don't drive much in reverse, but just want to know if there's anything I can do to avoid the money crunch up the rear end....any additives when I change rear diff fluid, any rear diff or other fluid that might make its limited use less lumpy-its not like anyone notices, and I think its worse on a downward grade, reversing 5 mph. It doesn't buck, just seems meandering, if ya know. THank you--JH
btw, that radio suddenly full blasting occurs when you hit the lower left steering vol controls, such as "MENU" with your knee or similar. It is a documented recall, but I chose to use duct tape to keep the switches on the remote from moving (though I think the dealer took the tape off for some reason-speaker sales slow?)!!!!!!
09-08-15, 06:12 PM
#1 Retroplay
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
"EDIT 9/11: Cleaned up the text and added the headunit service manual as an attachment".
using the quote button is a great tool to add context and attention to a question.
if you want to reference several quotes, select multi quote on each message, then select quote.
BTW, Retroplay is a great guy, I met him once a few years ago, he helped me out with a broken part on my ashtray, saved me from having to purchase the entire assembly...we had lunch and chatted about SC430s for an hour.
[QUOTE=Retroplay;10172992]I was just going through some old photos and thinking, "What the heck was that?"
It's a picture of the bluetooth mod I had originally done to to the cassette deck. I had it wired up to use the tape controls for play/stop, etc... I seem to remember that it mostly worked. Not sure why I didn't complete it, though.