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These pinouts are from the back of the nav display? I was comparing them to the beatsonic for the 02 sc430 and it shows a 22pin connector. Instructions show where the RCA video inputs are connected.
Hmm... that may explain why it has been a pain trying to read the wiring diagrams. There must be a 22Pin connector at the door part which then splits out to the connectors on the nav display. So there is apparently a cable in between.
The diagrams above are the connectors on the back of the display itself. I didn't get the door mechanism with my second hand display.
EDIT: I should have realized that while looking at this diagram:
Now if I can I just find this little harness for sale somewhere... Anyone know the part number?
You are killing it! Way to go! Lots of useful info here. I really don't understand a lot of it nor have enough skill to take on any of these mods but you seem in your element, for sure! One thing that I really want to see done, and have posted in another thread, but you seem to be the guy to make a request with... I'd like to change the LED's in the seat belt receiver. Ive done most of the LED's in the thread you mentioned earlier, but that's a final touch I'm looking for. Maybe once you sort all this out, you can take a look at the seat belt receiver. Anyway, great work! Keep it up!
You are killing it! Way to go! Lots of useful info here. I really don't understand a lot of it nor have enough skill to take on any of these mods but you seem in your element, for sure! One thing that I really want to see done, and have posted in another thread, but you seem to be the guy to make a request with... I'd like to change the LED's in the seat belt receiver. Ive done most of the LED's in the thread you mentioned earlier, but that's a final touch I'm looking for. Maybe once you sort all this out, you can take a look at the seat belt receiver. Anyway, great work! Keep it up!
I like it! I will post up some instructions as soon as I get to it. What color are you thinking?
For me, my scheme so far has been red for anything I need to pay attention to, blue for anything I need to find quickly (buttons, etc..) and white for where I need the brightest light such as the shifter.
Speaking of the shifter, I removed the top cover last night and brought it in to take a look at it because it is far too dim. I cut a piece off the white tape on the underside that was covering the P (park) and now the P is much brighter.
One should be able to remove the entire piece of white tape (meant to diffuse the light) and all the letters should be brighter. That tape is too thick.
Still planning to install a bright white LED in there, though.
Nope, though that is a good idea too but I think I would just do the logo.
This is a new kick/scuff plate light assembly. It will be CNC cut from plexi and thin brushed aluminum. The Lexus logo will back with a white translucent film and 3 white LEDs under it will light it up.
I am also restoring the kickplates, which means tamping out all the little dings and rebrushing the aluminum.
When I am done and verified everything fits, I will make the files available and people can have them made at a place like eMachineShop if they don't have their own CNC machine. Of course, you will need to install the lights, 3M tape it all together, and seal it yourself.
It pays to dig around because chances are someone has already done just about anything you are thinking about doing. Or at least gathered tidbits of information you have been looking for.
This is for a 2003 Toyota but some of the connectors line up with what is known and with what I have reverse engineered so far.
If there is any type of outside switch to change to composite video, it would need to be either on the 14 pin connector or the 8 pin power connector. There are some pins I have found which are configured for 12V input discretes which are not being shown on the wiring diagrams. I tried connecting 12V to them, but got no response.
On the bench, the screen will power up, display the Lexus logo for about 10 seconds then shuts off. I assume it shuts off because it is not getting any commands from a navigation ECU (or emulated one.) It could be shutting off because of no video detected as well. I should be able to wire up a simple VGA to RGBS adapter that would work good enough on the bench to keep the screen on. It will be hard for me to get too much further with it unless I can keep it powered up.
I would go with white, if possible. I've already done most of my interior lights in white, including the switches, gear selector, map lights, puddle lights, etc. I see you're looking to do LED upgrades for some things on the interior, too. Check out this thread... alot of work and research done already. Also, I see you're taking on the door sill plates. We've done those too! I'm searching for the DIY thread and will post it soon!
I would go with white, if possible. I've already done most of my interior lights in white, including the switches, gear selector, map lights, puddle lights, etc. I see you're looking to do LED upgrades for some things on the interior, too. Check out this thread... alot of work and research done already. Also, I see you're taking on the door sill plates. We've done those too! I'm searching for the DIY thread and will post it soon!
Seen that one. I originally thought I was going to have to take out the whole console to get to it and that thread convinced me otherwise. Thank God for forums!
I thought of that, but the two reasons I decided to make a new assembly is first, I wanted to get rid of the yellow when the lights are off. And the second reason is that the glue on mine has started to discolor. I originally thought someone had spilled soda on the door sill so I tried to clean it off but then noticed it was inside the light module between the top plastic cover and the Lexus logo. So it permanently looks like it has soda spilled on it. I have the tools to make a whole new assembly so I decided to go that route.
BTW, if people don't have a CNC and don't want to order, you can "chemical mill" the Lexus logo out of thin aluminum using drano after masking it. Works great on copper and brass, too if aluminum is boring. You should be able to get a vinyl stencil at just about any sign shop to do it.
I finally got around to tapping in to the IEBus in the car. I ran angry camel's code after fixing a few things and tweaking it to work on an Arduino board. And it works! Not perfectly, yet, though. Lots of parity errors and his program IEBus studio seems to have some issues which freeze it up. It could be that I am running it on Windows 7. I will drag out an XP laptop in the next couple days.
Basically this will give me a baseline in which to test my full port over to Arduino which will make this very simple to build for anybody that can solder a few parts. It will also let you run it on an Arduino mini and micro which are very tiny boards which can then be set up for custom functions (say touchscreen to mouse conversion or Radio to MP3/Phone control, etc...)
I did a device discovery to listen to what devices it found on the bus.
So far it hit on:
0x190 Head Unit (Radio)
0x1C6 Network Gateway
0x440 Amp
0x110 Nav Display
0x178 Nav ECU
0xFFF ??
0x12C ??
0x509 ??
0x8D7 ??
0x12 ??
It is possible that the weird ones were just errors in reading, but I was playing with the AC controls. There is also the amp for the navigation.
More to come. Once I get a good feel for how all this works, I will be writing a windows program much like IEBus Studio but I have some additional features in mind for it.
Once I reach the point where it is useful info, I will detail the install. Just learning right now.
It's a little thing, considering all the other mods I did, but it just makes the video switching so slick!
We did the same trick with JohnnyCake's SC430 but, we used it to toggle the Navigation System Entry-while-Moving override.
Keep up the awesome work, and document, document, document!
When we did JohnnyCake's mod, I had to pull up my old thread to remember how the heck I'd done it!
I'll need to look it up also, but I assume you just used a flip-flop to toggle on the second push. It may become unneccesary once I finish this IEBus doohickey since I will be able to sense any button pushes over the AVC-LAN. Then I control something like that with software.