What did you do to/for your sc430 today?
08-24-22, 09:49 PM
#1591
took advantage of complimentary tire rotation and re-balancing at costco today. they recommend an interval of 5-7k miles and i was at about 6,700 miles since i got these tires so i was due. ready for another 6k until the next rotation!
08-28-22, 04:08 AM
#1593
That looks great. Did you do this as a refresh to the paint or was there another reason? My 2007 hood has seen better days with the amount of paint touch ups I have done for the chips. What is the cost for having something like this done.
TjZ
TjZ
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tygr1 (09-08-22)
08-28-22, 06:16 AM
#1594
Paint was chipped and had been burned through with a buffing wheel when I bought the car.
The whole job was only $500. I found the right guy. Couldn't be happier.
08-28-22, 07:44 AM
#1595
Doubt I could get that done up here (Northern VA) for anywhere near that...
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tygr1 (09-08-22)
09-06-22, 09:30 PM
#1596
Tightened valve cover bolts and replaced 2 ignition coils.
This is a followup from about 3 months ago but wanted to post for a PSA ....
Short back story - I've been struggling with failing coils, oil on coils, small EVAP leak, and a throttle hesitation starting from a stop. Replaced 2 dead coils with an O'reilly MasterPro coil to keep the car running until i could secure some OEM (Denso) coils.
Finally got around to tightening valve cover bolts tonight (as recommended by another user). Much to my surprise and chagrin, EVERY bolt on my valve cover was loose. At least 1 of the bolts I was able to turn with my fingers!! Tightened them the best I could to near 5 ft-lbs of torque (don`t have a torque wrench to get 55 in-lbs "yet"). Also, while everything was apart, replaced the 2 non-OEM coils with OEM.
Took it for a test drive and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! The initial hesitation from a stop, which I have accepted as "normal" based on other posts in the forum, was virtually GONE!! Much better throttle response from what I was almost going to assume was a failing throttle position sensor.
At this point I'm almost wondering if the excessively loose valve covers could be the cause of my acceleration problem and my EVAP issue (P0442 and P0446). Yes, I've already adressed the common EVAP culprits. Time will tell.?.?.?
This is a followup from about 3 months ago but wanted to post for a PSA ....
Short back story - I've been struggling with failing coils, oil on coils, small EVAP leak, and a throttle hesitation starting from a stop. Replaced 2 dead coils with an O'reilly MasterPro coil to keep the car running until i could secure some OEM (Denso) coils.
Finally got around to tightening valve cover bolts tonight (as recommended by another user). Much to my surprise and chagrin, EVERY bolt on my valve cover was loose. At least 1 of the bolts I was able to turn with my fingers!! Tightened them the best I could to near 5 ft-lbs of torque (don`t have a torque wrench to get 55 in-lbs "yet"). Also, while everything was apart, replaced the 2 non-OEM coils with OEM.
Took it for a test drive and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! The initial hesitation from a stop, which I have accepted as "normal" based on other posts in the forum, was virtually GONE!! Much better throttle response from what I was almost going to assume was a failing throttle position sensor.
At this point I'm almost wondering if the excessively loose valve covers could be the cause of my acceleration problem and my EVAP issue (P0442 and P0446). Yes, I've already adressed the common EVAP culprits. Time will tell.?.?.?
Last edited by HardTimes; 09-06-22 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Spelling
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tygr1 (09-08-22)
09-08-22, 09:49 AM
#1597
Way to GO HARDTIMES! Yea. Oil in the coil packs is a dead giveaway that the Valve cover bolts have worked their way loose. Actual torque spec is 53" pounds. It sounds like you read my post where I use a harbor freight, inch pound torque wrench but tighten it up just another couple of inch pounds because the gasket is old. I don't know how many miles you have, but I always recommend that all vacuum lines are replaced every 100K. And for the sake of all that is good, PLEASE change your PCV Valve. Nobody ever remembers that thing and it's cheap and VERY important in your engines normal operation. But be careful when doing it. The rubber seal that it sits in (drivers side Valve Cover, FWD) IS ALWAYS hardened and will crack and drop a piece inside the engine when you are trying to get it out. They just get hard and brittle and LEAK! So, If you see oil in the forward part of your valve cover, drivers side, it is probably that valve. Great job Sir.
Paul
Paul
Last edited by Raven01750; 09-08-22 at 09:58 AM.
09-08-22, 08:03 PM
#1598
Way to GO HARDTIMES! Yea. Oil in the coil packs is a dead giveaway that the Valve cover bolts have worked their way loose. Actual torque spec is 53" pounds. It sounds like you read my post where I use a harbor freight, inch pound torque wrench but tighten it up just another couple of inch pounds because the gasket is old. I don't know how many miles you have, but I always recommend that all vacuum lines are replaced every 100K. And for the sake of all that is good, PLEASE change your PCV Valve. Nobody ever remembers that thing and it's cheap and VERY important in your engines normal operation. But be careful when doing it. The rubber seal that it sits in (drivers side Valve Cover, FWD) IS ALWAYS hardened and will crack and drop a piece inside the engine when you are trying to get it out. They just get hard and brittle and LEAK! So, If you see oil in the forward part of your valve cover, drivers side, it is probably that valve. Great job Sir.
Paul
Paul
May be unrelated to the symptoms I think it has resolved, but so far I’m optimistic.
Thanks again!
09-21-22, 06:36 PM
#1599
Just got my '02 SC, pearl white with tan interior. 105K. I replaced 2 front shocks, radiator, both inner/outer tie rods, new tires, TB, WP, plugs, drain/fill tran fluid, diff gear oil. I got the car from a title loan repo with adriver side window busted. I replaced the window glass but now the top stopped working. Dealer said because the auto up/down is not working and need to reset the limits on the driver side. I plan to do that this weekend by removing the motor and reset it. I hope that will solve the problem. Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
04-01-23, 04:01 PM
#1601
______nt______
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Bgw70 (04-02-23)
04-02-23, 05:13 PM
#1603
Lexus Test Driver
04-02-23, 05:25 PM
#1604
Took front bumper off to replace DRL/high beam bulbs, as previous owner put in LEDs (which just blink/flash as DRLs). Replaced front side marker bulbs as they were both out as well. I actually thought they were just orange reflectors, until I took off the front bumper and saw they were wired.
Made sure everything was working, reassembled headlights and entire front bumper only to have marker light (within headlight assembly) burn out after I was done 🤦🏻♂️. So far, nothing on this car has been easy. Although the ridiculousness of Lexus requiring a person to disassemble the entire front of the car for common maintenance item (bulb replacement) does not escape me.
Next time I make the effort to do this, ALL bulbs will be replaced at the same time.
Made sure everything was working, reassembled headlights and entire front bumper only to have marker light (within headlight assembly) burn out after I was done 🤦🏻♂️. So far, nothing on this car has been easy. Although the ridiculousness of Lexus requiring a person to disassemble the entire front of the car for common maintenance item (bulb replacement) does not escape me.
Next time I make the effort to do this, ALL bulbs will be replaced at the same time.