What did you do to/for your sc430 today?
#631
Lexus Test Driver
Tne CTEK connector at the batter has an inline 15 amp fuse within inches of the positive terminal
Even if my wires, split loom sheathing, and ape wrap were to all fail, I'd jsut get a blown fuse in the CTEK connector.
The extension's wire gauge is as supplied by CTEK for their battery maintainer.
I'm basically using CTEK engineered wiring + more protection to allow it to be routed about the engine compartment.I routed everything well clear of things that get hot.
Even if my wires, split loom sheathing, and ape wrap were to all fail, I'd jsut get a blown fuse in the CTEK connector.
The extension's wire gauge is as supplied by CTEK for their battery maintainer.
I'm basically using CTEK engineered wiring + more protection to allow it to be routed about the engine compartment.I routed everything well clear of things that get hot.
Last edited by Bgw70; 07-19-18 at 05:34 PM.
#632
To duplicate what I did, you will need....
1 CTEK 56-353 MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger <-- the actual charger (includes battery eyelet adapter)
1 CTEK (56-304) Comfort Connect Extension Cable, 8.2 Feet <-- the extension used to route connection inside hood.
3/8 inch split loom sheating to protect the installed extension cable
zip ties
Silicone grease (to lubricate the jack o-ring and help ensure a water tight seal.
Hints:
Transfer the rubber stopper from the battery eyelet adaptor to the jack end of the extension cable. A bit of silicon grease makes sliding it over the big connector easier.
The jack is easily zip tied into place if you drill two small holes in an existing vertical portion of the plastic cover of the wiper compartment.
Depending on how you do your routing, some cable clips might also be useful. Plan your routing to stay away from hot or moving stuff.
In the SC40, I could run the cable assembly inside the compartment where the wiper assemblies reside.
On our Aston's, I needed to create metal brackets to hold the jack. Routing was unique to each model. On one, I could follow existing cable assemblies. Another needed more creativity to fashion my own routing. Goal was of course to make everything look factory installed.
NB. Buying the CTEK from Amazon makes warranty service essentially impossible. CTEK won't work with customers directly, but requires you to return to dealership.
I had one of three go bad after four years (normal CTEK warranty is five). Thankfully, Amazon was gracious enough to help out, but that was the Amazon CSR going above and beyond.
NB2. Cut your zip ties FLUSH. You don't want a sharp zip tie tab cutting you when you use the jack.
It is absolutely fabulous not having to life the hood or pop the trunk to connect the CTEK. With connection now so easy, I do it every time in or out of the garage. The CTEK charger cord hangs neatly on a little plastic hook when disconnected.
1 CTEK 56-353 MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger <-- the actual charger (includes battery eyelet adapter)
1 CTEK (56-304) Comfort Connect Extension Cable, 8.2 Feet <-- the extension used to route connection inside hood.
3/8 inch split loom sheating to protect the installed extension cable
zip ties
Silicone grease (to lubricate the jack o-ring and help ensure a water tight seal.
Hints:
Transfer the rubber stopper from the battery eyelet adaptor to the jack end of the extension cable. A bit of silicon grease makes sliding it over the big connector easier.
The jack is easily zip tied into place if you drill two small holes in an existing vertical portion of the plastic cover of the wiper compartment.
Depending on how you do your routing, some cable clips might also be useful. Plan your routing to stay away from hot or moving stuff.
In the SC40, I could run the cable assembly inside the compartment where the wiper assemblies reside.
On our Aston's, I needed to create metal brackets to hold the jack. Routing was unique to each model. On one, I could follow existing cable assemblies. Another needed more creativity to fashion my own routing. Goal was of course to make everything look factory installed.
NB. Buying the CTEK from Amazon makes warranty service essentially impossible. CTEK won't work with customers directly, but requires you to return to dealership.
I had one of three go bad after four years (normal CTEK warranty is five). Thankfully, Amazon was gracious enough to help out, but that was the Amazon CSR going above and beyond.
NB2. Cut your zip ties FLUSH. You don't want a sharp zip tie tab cutting you when you use the jack.
It is absolutely fabulous not having to life the hood or pop the trunk to connect the CTEK. With connection now so easy, I do it every time in or out of the garage. The CTEK charger cord hangs neatly on a little plastic hook when disconnected.
Last edited by Seattle SCone; 07-19-18 at 04:23 PM.
#633
I bought my charging unit to replicate your set up, can you please take a picture of the underside so i can see exactly what I need to do? Thanks in advance.
#634
Rather than leaving this buried here, I started a new thread that has more detailed picts.
CTEK External Jack
CTEK External Jack
Last edited by Seattle SCone; 07-20-18 at 11:04 AM. Reason: Wrong URL
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TitanG545 (05-20-20)
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#638
Instructor
Coleroad
After seeing your SC, I now want to get the updated Chrome OEM
06 rims. I was a bit against chrome for a while but have second thoughts
How much did your chrome OEM 06 rims cost?
Cheers
After seeing your SC, I now want to get the updated Chrome OEM
06 rims. I was a bit against chrome for a while but have second thoughts
How much did your chrome OEM 06 rims cost?
Cheers
#640
Auto Vox X2
Installed the AutoVox X2 Mirror front/rear Dashcam as my full time, electronic rearview mirror. I'd prefer a slightly wider view rear camera than 140 degrees, but it makes our huge C-pillar blind spots MUCH easier to clear. Cars in lane next to me don't disappear off screen until the front of the car is visible out my side windows. Those blind spots have cause some scary moments on the highway. Finally, have a good solution.
Hardest part of the install was running the rearview camera wire. Took about four hours, but end result was worth take apart the trunk linings and rear seat. The front and rear recording was a side benefit.
Because I'm using it as full time rear view, I keep the X2 tilted up to minimize physical reflections
Also, adding a circular polarizing filter dramatically reduces windshield reflections in the front camera.
I painted the existing mirror mount and house flat black to visually blend in X2 from outside viewers. Otherwise, the black X2 sticks out like a sore thumb behind the ecru, stock mirror assembly.
Straps over existing mirror.
.
Hardest part of the install was running the rearview camera wire. Took about four hours, but end result was worth take apart the trunk linings and rear seat. The front and rear recording was a side benefit.
Because I'm using it as full time rear view, I keep the X2 tilted up to minimize physical reflections
Also, adding a circular polarizing filter dramatically reduces windshield reflections in the front camera.
I painted the existing mirror mount and house flat black to visually blend in X2 from outside viewers. Otherwise, the black X2 sticks out like a sore thumb behind the ecru, stock mirror assembly.
Straps over existing mirror.
.
#641
^^ This might be something I'd consider for my '02. Any chance you'd be willing to let me see how it looks/performs? I'm in Renton, assuming you are still local to Seattle (I'm still relatively new to posting here)...and I'd happily treat you a cold bev for your time .
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#642
Racer
Thread Starter
they were bought from the dealer back in 06. I sold the sc almost two years ago now. I don't even remember how much the wheels cost, plus that was a long time ago. I really liked them though.
#643
Lexus Test Driver
#644
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Updated on another thread, so thought I'd post here. Bought these on ebay, and had to adapt them a little but they seem to work perfectly. I had to remove the plastic ends, as the issue was the arm length (ie. depth) would not allow to keep the plastic piece that locks into the head rest posts due to our plastic backplate. Once I unscrewed the plastic ends, I taped the threaded ends with electrical tape, then felt, then another layer of electric tape. This would protect the leather from scratches or tears, just in case. I then removed the headrest and could see that there is enough of a gap where the head rest post enters the head rest that allowed me to insert the taped/felted ends of the hanger. Then I placed everything into it's natural place and viola! Pretty happy with the results. Now I have a pair on both sides, for symmetry. I'm sure with the top down, I'd have to remove any coat to avoid flapping in the wind. I'm sure I'll also get questions on them, as they look like the have some effect on aerodynamics. Thoughts?
Last edited by ShawnOk; 07-29-18 at 10:55 AM.
#645
I had my windows tinted and a full exterior detail/paint correction last week, which removed the majority of the surface imperfections (swirls/spiderwebbing) from the past owner and average care. I'm quite pleased with how it came out, esp. for a sixteen-year-old+ paint job. Since the pictures were taken, the two side badges on the trunk have been removed (which were just Plastidipped the weekend before).
Pics below are before/after from the same viewpoints...
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER
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^^ AFTER
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER
Pics below are before/after from the same viewpoints...
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER
^^ BEFORE
^^ AFTER