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Fixed power steering leak #2 with oetiker clamps and replaced steering rack bushings with daizen polyurethane.
I WAS going to do control arm bushings today as well, but those steel sleeves are a pita to cut out.
I couldn't get my camber alignment to match left/right and fingers crossed new bushings will fix it. Next weekend, I'll hopefully be back on the road with a new set of daizen bushings on my LCA #1 and #2, new lower ball joints, new tie rods, and a tidy feeling ride. Used the smaller pitman puller from autozone. It was a little tricky, but I got the bushings out. Had a power steering leak at the rubber hose on the left. Just replaced it with sae rated p/s 3/8" hose and an oetiker clamp.
Inspected all eight spark plug wells for motor oil accumulation.
Increased left front wheel camber 0.5 degrees more positive than right camber to tune out road crown in highway right lane. Previously set camber balance more neutral, but right lane road crown pushes car slightly to right. I can feel it as a few grams in the steering wheel. Of course, road crown effect is in the opposite direction when in center lane, but I'm usually in right lane. This should pull car to left just enough to cancel out the road's tilt, but won't have verification that it is the correct amount of camber imbalance until I get her on the highway. Might need another round to get it exactly like I want it.
Redid left front wheel toe alignment to remove toe changes induced by camber adjustment.
Painted calipers POR-15 42606 black while she was up on stands. Brushed on nicely and the tiny little can is probably enough for four more cars. Much better lookin now than the ugly, mottled bare metal that looked like it had a disease.
Just now starting to sort out some modifications after two years of enjoying the basic car.
In all candor some of the most recent work documented here I was forced into when last March an absent minded driver bumped into the front of my car while in a parking garage. For now I've wrapped some of the front grill trim and painted the stock grill gloss black. I was hoping that the simpler pre-2006 grill would fit as I prefer the cleaner lines when the Lexus logo is pulled off. My 2004 SC is like that.
I'm still researching a body shop to make a new bumper grill that grafts the newer spindle grill onto the SC cover. To date most body shops and customizers have declined to participate so if anyone comes across a possible vendor please let me know. If I do find someone I'll report back.
I just added staggered 20" wheels and in all honesty I'm unhappy with the ride quality over the stock 18" setup. Feels too much like the flat runs on my 2004. Perhaps I'll get used to it but if not I'll explore different tires with higher sidewalls. Question - would different shocks help smooth out the ride?
Both my 2004 and 2007 SCs have the Injen air intake system. Considering the Magnaflow exhaust system if only for the sound benefit. Car also needs a new receiver with Apple CarPlay, Sirius XM and rear back up camera, maybe one of those electronic throttle boxes.
That 0.5 degree more positive camber for the left front wheel (relative to right front) and a bit more fine tuning of toe did the trick. She's like a throwing knife now going down the road, balanced, steerable with my finger tips just barely touching the steering wheel. Wish I knew how to do this earlier in my car's 18 year history with me.
Inspected all eight spark plug wells for motor oil accumulation.
Increased left front wheel camber 0.5 degrees more positive than right camber to tune out road crown in highway right lane. Previously set camber balance more neutral, but right lane road crown pushes car slightly to right. I can feel it as a few grams in the steering wheel. Of course, road crown effect is in the opposite direction when in center lane, but I'm usually in right lane. This should pull car to left just enough to cancel out the road's tilt, but won't have verification that it is the correct amount of camber imbalance until I get her on the highway. Might need another round to get it exactly like I want it.
Redid left front wheel toe alignment to remove toe changes induced by camber adjustment.
Painted calipers POR-15 42606 black while she was up on stands. Brushed on nicely and the tiny little can is probably enough for four more cars. Much better lookin now than the ugly, mottled bare metal that looked like it had a disease.
Paco Motorsports alignment hub stands for initial suspension setup. Works well for getting all four wheels aligned relative to each other and car axis. Thrust angle and steer ahead can be done with PACO stands. So, full four wheel alignment is doable with them. If I have to work all the way from setting heights, and camber PACO hubstands are what I grab. They have side benefit of loading vehicle on suspension while allowing full access to suspension components. That is important for before torquing bushings up to spec post suspension rebuild. Takes a huge amount of patience to get all four wheels into alignment, but once you know how, it's fantastically freeing to set the alignment the way you want it.
For final touch ups of toe, I use Tenhulzen plates. Those let me adjust and measure with wheels, on the ground, without a lift. I simply roll the car back and forward a few feet between adjustments to setting the suspension. My final adjustments on front toe rods are on the order of 1/4 to 1/24 of a turn. Yes, 1/8 turn changes about 3/32 inch of total toe. You have to be very consistent in setup for each measurement cycle or you'll go nuts due to conflicting readings. Be patient and you'll be rewarded.
The Tenhulzen plates are also handy to quickly measure total toe to see if alignment has drifted. PACO stands take me over half an hour to mount on the car.
Last edited by Seattle SCone; 12-08-20 at 11:44 PM.
In the process of doing daizen bushings and picked up some paint for the control arms. Figured why stop there.
Degreased the underside and spot treating scratches and damage from lifts with rustoleum and enamel paint. Followed by a generous helping of amsoil metal protector in every nook and cranny.
Today I replaced the 2 rear Struts Absorber Assy Shocks along with new Cushion Rear Shock Absorber upper and lower, Collar for rear support to rear shock absorber and the Bumper Rear Spring right and left. Also had a 2nd 4 wheel alignment to correct the new rear strut installation adjustment. Rides like a new car again. 65,487 miles.
Today I replaced the 2 rear Struts Absorber Assy Shocks along with new Cushion Rear Shock Absorber upper and lower, Collar for rear support to rear shock absorber and the Bumper Rear Spring right and left. Also had a 2nd 4 wheel alignment to correct the new rear strut installation adjustment. Rides like a new car again. 65,487 miles.
No when I had a 4 wheel alignment after installing new tires back in June/July they told me one of the struts was leaking so I ordered up a new set along with some new hardware from Megizip in Japan.
Last week I had the passenger airbag inflator recall (seemingly flawlessly) performed by Reliable Lexus of
Springfield. Between Lexus Customer care support and Reliable Lexus' performance, I couldn't be happier with the outcome.
Yesterday she got a needed 4 wheel alignment after replacing both outer front tie-rods last Thursday. Toe-in adjustment on the front was all that was needed, all the rest was spot on.
I'm really starting to enjoy my SC430.
Where in NWA are you located? We live in Bella Vista. I used Reliable Lexus 1 time and they pissed me off and I have neve been back. I will drive over to Lexus of Tulsa first.
I bought my 02 SC sometime around the end of OCT. Even though it only had 55K mi. its age was a concern to me. So, I put a couple thousand on it pretty quickly just to see what I had. Then I took it to a Lexus dealer near me and had the belt/water pump job done. When I picked it up, the service manager told me that the mechanic says I need to change the valve cover gaskets...another $500.00. I declined because it had never dripped any oil or showed low on the stick. I have not driven it much since the job was done, but now I smell oil burning off hot exhaust each time I park and get out of it. BUMMER! If it was oil spilled while working on it, it would be burned off by now. I guess its headed back to the shop before too long.
Benji1
Typically, you can forestall the valve cover gasket replacement by just tightening the bolts. That will usually buy you about a year. However, since you are already in the mode of preventative maintenance, I'd go ahead and get it replaced now but have them positively identify the leak first to make sure that the valve cover is indeed the source. Also check your power steering pump interface for leaks. That leak will eventually lead to an alternator failure.
Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the forum.
Harold
Benji1
Typically, you can forestall the valve cover gasket replacement by just tightening the bolts.
While performing the tightening of the valve cover "bolts" (I believe they are cap nuts) one must be extremely careful and use a lot of "feel." On an engine this old, the gaskets will be hard, and thus, easy to distort or break by over-tightening. It's ideally done before a leak begins, as preventative maintenance, when the gaskets are still pliable.
11-29-20, 02:04 PM
Daizen steering rack bushings
