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For the price of the tool, you could have them sent in for cleaning, rebuilding, filter replacement, and flow-matching. And there's certainly no reason to do it more than once, unless you're running horrible gasoline.
That wouldn't cover all four of his cars. It also doesn't get his intake valves cleaned. True taking them out getting them cleaned and flow tested is the best option. This this cleans as well just no test for wear.
For the price of the tool, you could have them sent in for cleaning, rebuilding, filter replacement, and flow-matching. And there's certainly no reason to do it more than once, unless you're running horrible gasoline.
But then that leads to more work, extra gaskets and down time without a car. At least with the Tool you can do it cheaper next time.
Funny you ask! I picked up some connectors and did my first fuel injector cleaning today. My 2000 5.7L Trans Am was the first victim ;-). I did it first because GM made it very easy, the fuel rail has a schrader valve and the fuel pump relay is right there next to the radiator. All of this means, no tools required. Our SCs are a different story and more to follow on that.
Anyway, I filled the container with cleaner, connected my air compressor to the tool, adjusted the pressure 5psi below the normal fuel rail pressure and started the car. It ran for about 10-15min, then stopped running when it ran out of cleaner.
BTW, I did not see any smoke coming out of the exhaust.
I then disconnected everything, installed the relay and it fired right up...the engine idled smoother and then I took her for I ride, my butt dyno detected a 10hp gain! ;-)
I was going to clean the injectors in the SC today but could not loosen the fuel line, which is located on the drivers side near plugs 2 and 3. It is ridged fuel line then it becomes flexible line.
I was using line wrenches but they are cheap. I need to pickup better quality wrenches before I try again.
My son picked up some new flare (line) wrenches today and I was able to break the fuel line open easily, but decided to wait for another day because it was late and we were watching the playoffs!
The DIY will be up soon for those that are interested.
Is the removal of the rear seat necc. Is there a fuse or relay you could of pulled instead of how you did it
Good call Mr. B!
I read the instructions that came with the OTC equipment and although they were correct instructing me to disconnect the connector on the fuel pump, you are also correct.
It seems there is a fuel pump relay but that does not kill the fuel pump because there is a resistor Parallel to the relay (see schematic, left side, blue wire connecting the two relays). The fuel pump is located at the lower left side of the schematic.
The relay you want to pull is called the CIR OPN Relay. I just confirmed what I am writing by pulling each relay one at a time. When I pulled the CIR OPN Relay, the engine ran out of gas but when I pulled the F/PMP Relay the engine kept running.
NOTE: the F/PMP relay is shown in the normally closed position and power must be applied to it to open this relay. The command comes from the ECU.
Ok this is how I see it. First I do use Berryman' fuel cleaner in my cars. The cleaners only work to a certain degree. Kind of like a dishwasher. It has it's limitations. Some things you just have to wash off with more power. In this case it's hand scrubbing. I see fuel treatment in this fashion. They help clean but have limitations. Using a system like Bgw bought. It runs straight cleaner for about 15-20 minutes. This is like running the parts through a heated parts washer using full strength cleaner. This is going to be more like hand pre washing the dishes before going into the dishwasher. Your clean off the tuff stuck on stuff that normally wasn't get washed off.
01-19-16, 06:49 PM
JK!
