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I had the same problem with my 06 LS430 (leaking PS reservoir, grinding noise). After replacing the reservoir and upon further inspection, the alternator bracket bolt broke off. I had to slowly remove the remaining bolt screw before replacing it. Afterwards, the grinding noise continued but diminished within a week. I suspect the PS fluid on the alternator diminished. Should I still replace the alternator?
If your PS reservoir is no longer leaking, I think your alternator is OK. I would not replace it until it shows the sign of failing. Before the alternator dies, your battery symbol will show on your dashboard, on and off or flickering. That is the time you will have to replace your alternator. But like Deryl has said, it’s tough call.
My two cents.
If your PS reservoir is no longer leaking, I think your alternator is OK. I would not replace it until it shows the sign of failing. Before the alternator dies, your battery symbol will show on your dashboard, on and off or flickering. That is the time you will have to replace your alternator. But like Deryl has said, it’s tough call.
My two cents.
I had a PS noise, found a leak, had the Vane (ps) pump, lines and serpentine (outside) belt replaced at a Toyota dealer. The entire "ps assembly" costs about the same as the valve. Also make sure they replace the PS fluid!
If you are a AAA member they will come and test your alternator. Mine was fine after the leak.
I keep a $48 "Battery Tender Jr." on my battery in the garage I put a jump pack in the trunk if I go away on a trip and have to park the car, just in case.
If the car is older/high mileage it is best to replace the valve cover gaskets (Lexus has a special name) and do the spark plugs at the same time. This might be the source of the leak.
Last edited by ivanj; 10-22-19 at 07:54 AM.
Reason: clarity
Thanks for everyone's feedback. Autozone said the alternator was fine. I continued to hear a grinding noise when starting the car (albeit not as loud). I went ahead and replaced the alternator and the noise is gone.
Glad that you got to the bottom of it. With it grinding like that, it would only be a matter of time before a failure occurred and according to Mr Murphy, it would happen at the worst possible moment.
I believe I have the same grinding problem as detailed above. Alternator and battery charge fine. All electronics working.
A month ago heard a nasty loud grinding sound on start up for two seconds. Thought it was exhaust heat shielding
vibrating, which stopped after two seconds and car ran fine and did not return, until the next start. But then went away
completely - no grinding sound at all for a month. Then came back on start-up only for two seconds. Drove around and
returned to my garage. As I pulled in a nasty very loud grinding sound returned as I sat parked at idle. This sound
was a bit louder and less like exhaust shielding rattle and more like metal being chewed up inside the engine.
Turned it off, started it and it started again with the metal grinding. Turned off. This morning I started it again. Very
strange, no start at all and with no turn-over. Also heard an electronic chime I'd never before heard. Read some mention
of this chime online but no one could place it or interpret it. Almost like a seatbelt unfastened chime but much quieter
and of a different quality.
When the car previously was idling with the nasty grinding sound - imagine all the metal inside your engine being
ground to small pieces - I tried to locate it with no luck. Hood up and focused on the starter area or under the car
seemed the same. Sounded like a metal fan tearing up a radiator but that was not it. Towing it to my tech in two
days.
I believe I have the same grinding problem as detailed above. Alternator and battery charge fine. All electronics working.
A month ago heard a nasty loud grinding sound on start up for two seconds. Thought it was exhaust heat shielding
vibrating, which stopped after two seconds and car ran fine and did not return, until the next start. But then went away
completely - no grinding sound at all for a month. Then came back on start-up only for two seconds. Drove around and
returned to my garage. As I pulled in a nasty very loud grinding sound returned as I sat parked at idle. This sound
was a bit louder and less like exhaust shielding rattle and more like metal being chewed up inside the engine.
Turned it off, started it and it started again with the metal grinding. Turned off. This morning I started it again. Very
strange, no start at all and with no turn-over. Also heard an electronic chime I'd never before heard. Read some mention
of this chime online but no one could place it or interpret it. Almost like a seatbelt unfastened chime but much quieter
and of a different quality.
When the car previously was idling with the nasty grinding sound - imagine all the metal inside your engine being
ground to small pieces - I tried to locate it with no luck. Hood up and focused on the starter area or under the car
seemed the same. Sounded like a metal fan tearing up a radiator but that was not it. Towing it to my tech in two
days.
Do you think your starter motor did not retract then Bendix arm? That in return messed up your starter motor, which is why the car won't start?
Good question, that's the most likely cause. But the continual loud grinding of
metal happened when I returned to my garage.
It started grinding while idling just prior to when I would have switched
it off. That grinding was hellacious and sounded like lots of metal inside the engine
being pulverized. No starting involved.
I turned it off, then started it up again and the grinding was still there although it
started up fine. Tried to localize the sound but no luck. Then turned it off and then
it would not start and I heard that oddly quiet chime from inside the dash. Battery
and electrics fine.
Seems like the two-second grinding noise on start-up that happened ten or so times,
and which I thought was a rattling exhaust heat shield, was the Bendix arm not fully
retracting and the gears failing. But engine and flywheel ran as smooth as always.
I do have a timing sensor fault that occurred every month or so but is now constant.
May be coincidence that the Bendix gears fully gave out when I returned to my garage.
Hoping it is just the starter and not the flywheel, but what about all those metal pieces,
how do you clean that out?
Hoping it is just the starter and not the flywheel, but what about all those metal pieces,
how do you clean that out?
The bell housing for the torque converter, where any metal shavings would exist, is separate from the internals of the engine/tranny, so, I wouldn't worry too much about it. However, at this point, you aren't even sure the problem is your starter, correct?
Yes, correct, do not yet know what's up. My tech has had my car for 2 days but has yet to get into it.
He doesn't like to speculate too much, but a possibility is a flex plate bolt that fell out, so may not be
the starter. I do hope there's no reason to worry but that noise has to be something bad.
plus cost of Pennzoil Platinum, filter, and upgraded bulbs.
Could have been much worse.
Very strange, Bendix gear shaft broke off inside starter causing metal pieces to grind around
inside the starter. So who was saying Lexus starters don't fail?
Wow, in all my years of replacing starters, I've never seen one failed in this way...thanks for sharing the photos.
Personally, I would have opted for a Toyota/Lexus branded part, considering the amount of work it is to replace, unless I planned to only keep the vehicle for a short time. But, I do all my own work, and save so much on labor, I can afford to splurge buying high-end parts.
Yes, a Toyota starter is about the same price, just a few dollars more, but
their shipping is slow. This one has top reviews and the maker seems to
specialize in starters. My tech is excellent, was 17 years at Lexus, he
sent a pic to his old service manager at Lexus who also was surprised.
Replacing the starter is not too bad, just a lot of bolts and connections
to get under the manifold. I probably should have parked it for a week
to wait for the OEM. The old starter had some wear in the gears, but
doubt that had any effect.
Now, later today, I'm noticing that this new starter sounds tinny on
startup and it takes about half a second for the engine to catch
whereas before the engine started instantly with the OEM Lexus
starter. Not sure I can live with that. Wondering if it's good - they
may have sold me a dud.
10-20-19, 04:36 PM
