If I remember correctly there are two wires going to each motor When I installed the 1/4 window module I cut those two wires and then the motor side of the two wires went to the module and then two wires from the module went back to the wires that were cut and they go back to the main harness [ where you cut originally ] For clarity the 2 wires direct from the motor to the module then the other two wires that you cut go back towards the front . There also was a yellow wire that would go to the luxlink module [ in your case would have to go to one side of your switch your installing ] In the luxlink install since the module is dumb [ not knowing up or down ] there was one trigger wire that did return to the drivers side window switch which I believe was a positive polarity .

I hope this helps you

 

As a foot note on the 1/4 window module. It is designed to operate 2 windows or 4. I cut off the the 4 window option and just used the two window. Wiring it through the luxlink to trigger the rear 1/4 windows to move up or down. When you activate the rear windows they will go down one at time. By this I mean the timing of the first window going down then second window going
at different intervals I believe was done so you would not draw to much current at once. The same is true when you activate them to go up.

 

It looks like you've gotten pretty far already, but I just wanted to point out that every signal you want is located on the roof ECU which can be accessed from the trunk. There you will find constant 12V and the motor mires.As mentioned, you just cut the lines to the motors and wire the module in between. It switches out the original wires and controls the motors by itself.

On one of the older threads you posted about this, I made up a schematic showing the module and wiring including the pin numbers on the roof ecu. This module you have looks like the one that I had recommended before (or at least has the same wiring.)

I'll see if I can find that post.

Scott

 

Here it is: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...ml#post9577473

It wasn't your thread. Sorry about that.

 

BTW, you are only about an hour NW of me. If you have the SC down here with you, you could bring it by some weekend and I will help you with it. This weekend won't be good because my brother is bringing down my SC and will be staying here a week, so I will have company. Though, he's a motorhead, so he might get into it, too. Up to you. Text me for the address if you want.

 

Thanks for the info everyone! Will have to put some more pen to paper to decide how to attack this project. I do like the idea of single press the top button to drop quarters, and hold down to start top cycle. Retro, do you see this affecting the LuxLink system or throwing a top code causing a Top Lockout (ie. system doesn't think the quarter windows are not in correct position to start top cycle). Or any other potential problems? Thanks again.

 

Still hoping to get some thoughts on this so I can plan my attack. Messaged Retro, but haven't heard from him. I'm sure he's busy since he recently moved across the country and started a new job. Anyway, if anyone can answer or help me to find out more on the questions I asked above, I would appreciate it. Also in terms of the switch, if someone who understands what I would need (if I go the stand alone switch route) could link an eBay product, it would greatly help me reduce the guesswork. Id greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

 

Shawn
Am I to understand that you are not using the
Luxlink at all. If that's the case many of us will want to follow your install closely. What was Lexus thinking when they didn"t add a switch for the rear windows.
theazz

 

The rear windows were made to follow specific instructions of the top ecu . When the 1/4 windows drop its after the front windows drop that is to protect the weather seals. Just as when the 1/4 are down and you raise the top the 1/4 come up after the fronts again to protect window weather seals. The top ecu is designed to know where all the windows are at and if it sees an anomaly it will fault. I have the 1/4 window mod with the luxlink gen 2 . The 1/4 window module steve provided me with was a universal design that he gave me instructions how to integrate it to operate with the luxlink. Basically you only use the 2 window option instead of the 4 window by cutting the 4 window wires of the module. The up and down of the windows are tied in to the drivers side window down and up control.via the luxlink Since you don't have a luxlink you will have to feed the 12 volt positive to the module as well as the negative. Then source a switch to operate the up and down function. The module also splices into the motors on bot sides so the can be controlled by the 1/4 window module and your switch. Keep in mind when you activate the 1/4 windows to go down or up they will operate one at time so as to not overload the circuit. Be aware the top ecu may see the movments of the windows as a fault as it does when the luxlink is wired in and it does require a shut down and re-start of the car to cancel the fault. ,.What I mean by that is if the top is down and you raise the 1/4 windows first before you will be able operate the top . If the ECU saw that as a fault you will need to do the restart the engine to cancel the fault. I have no problem with this anomaly I expect it. as I said its the fault of the lexus ECU seeing it as a fault . I hope I explained it

 

Here is a link to a switch currently offered on EBay. It has no illumination or markings. It is considered small, requiring a 1/2" by 3/4" mounting hole.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-13-Amp-...cAAOSw42dZC9Fx
As mentioned above, the three wires from the switch would be Up, Down & Chassis Ground and would be connected to the window control module. I believe someone mounted a similar switch in the ash tray opening next to the lighter socket.

 

hey everyone, just thought I'd give a small update. Had a chat with TexSexLex a few days ago to catch up and discuss a few projects and he asked how my status on this mod. Thought I'd update here. So let me being by saying that I decided to go the route of installing the unit in the back seat rather than the trunk as suggested. I feel that this would be easier and have less possibility of error, and if I made a mistake and needed access to the unit, easier than having to tear the trunk down again. With that being said, to each his own. I was very much interested in the idea that Retro had suggested about triple tapping the roof "Open" button to activate the down/up cycle on the windows but unfortunately I didn't hear from him so I choose to go the classic route of install and use the small switch (soldered connections) linked above. IT FITS PERFECTLY into the small "space" in the cigarette lighter/coin tray area. If you open the spring door you will see the removable coin tray and immediately to the right is a blank area. This is where I will do the final install of the switch, but I will leave enough wire so if Retro chimes in with how to accomplish the future "triple" tap off the Roof Open button I can modify. Also I plan to put a single round, push button switch for a future NOS kit (maybe?).

So now to the nitty gritty. Let me first say, this install was much MUCH EASIER than I was expecting. More of the time was spent tearing down the back seat and side panels to expose the harness. In my case, I had to test which pair of wires was up and which pair was down, on each respective side. For anyone following suite, I will post my wiring diagram with indication of which wire on each side is up/down. I don't have the diagram with me at the moment. Basically, both sides had a red and green wire. One is up, one is down. The diagram is self explanatory. Anyway, total job is probably about 3 hours start to finish with tear down and buttoning everything up. I only bought extra wire for the switch wire extension leads, but I doubt I will need it. There is more than enough wire in the harness. Additionally, I grounded to the same bolt that the driver quarter window motor is grounded b'c it was easy access, and ran 12v off the cigarette lighter b'c of it's easy access under the seat heater control. Tested everything out, even without the final switch installed and works perfectly.

Some notes:
1) the module has a fuse on the 12v which is an added safety to avoid burning out the OEM circuit or tripping the ACC fuse that I've piggybacked.
2) the module rolls only one window down at a time to avoid extra train on the circuit (ie. if each motor pulls 5 amps, it would rather have 3 amps at one time vs 10 amps at once- just hypothetical number btw).
3) Using this module and a single switch, only controls the windows in pairs (ie, one switch for both windows to work in the same direction). Maybe having two switches would allow control of both? Not sure, didn't attempt it.
4) Once the windows are moved from the static location in any form, the top computer locks out the top cycle. This means that you must at some point restart the car to clear this "error." Additionally, in the case of NOT restarting the car and pressing the roof button will give NO LIGHT on the roof button, and NO TONE.
5) On one instance of testing, I didn't allow the quarter windows to roll all the way up, and turned off the car prematurely. therefore there was a 1 inch gap. I tried to cycle the top and no tone and no light. Top didn't move. Had to restart the car, use switch to roll up completely. Turn off car. Turn on car. The cycle the top.

Anyway, lots of words for a very simple install. I must admit that I got overcharged on the module, I've seen the same module for around $25. For $25, this should have been a mod I did a long time ago. Let me say that I got overcharged on this unit over 200%. Totally ripped off. Anyway, For anyone interested in this path, this is also a great time to change the rear 5" speakers and the 8" sub. Three birds, one stone. BTW, i don't condone hitting birds with stones. I have/had parakeets. :-( Anyhoo, wiring diagram to be posted in a few weeks when I get back to Chicago. Thanks for reading!

 

....good work Shawn & great talking to you the other day.....the switch that you are using, is it the same one in the link, in post #25 ?....also, if you have the module #, could you post it also. I'm on vacation in a couple of weeks & this might be a project while I'm off work

 

Yup, used the same switch that FlopTop recommended in post #25. I don't have the module number but after some searching, I found what I believe to be the same module. I've linked below but unfortunately it says not available on Amazon. I'm sure a google search should produce some results. But as you will see there aren't many reviews, but most are fair except one. I do wish that both windows went down simultaneously, but I feel they created this on purpose to avoid overdraw on the circuit (see my previous post). Maybe someone can contact ScyTek (if still open for business), and ask if they have a similar model that does simultaneous movement using the same wire harness to avoid having to rewire my setup? Much appreciated, if so. Been in study mode for my board exam and can't get side tracked. Anyway, hope to hear if anyone comes up with any info and good luck TexSexLex!
Ps. I think the autosense roll up feature is important, so something to consider if looking for an equivalent replacement.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-4-SMART4.html

 

...good luck with that board exam & we definitely don't want you to get sidetracked from that. I'll touch bases with you next week sometime & see if thats the correct module or not.....good luck !!!

 

Here's my wiring diagram... everything works great! Glad I got around to this modification. Pics of the switch install coming soon!