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OK, so I popped the hood to look for other vacuum hoses and couldn't find any that were easily accessible. I started to make an attempt to remove the engine cover but I didn't have the proper tools, so then I scanned the codes again. The P0135 (O2 sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1) code is what's on. The three evap codes I was getting before are not.
My car was close to empty, and I wondered if that, combined with the hose being detached recently, might be causing any false alarms, so I cleared the code and drove about 5 miles to a Shell station to fill up. After about 4 miles, the CEL went on again. I filled up (can't remember if the octane was 91 or 93 there), cleared the code again, and drove back home. Again, after about 4 miles, the CEL went on again. I cleared it again and parked it in the garage.
So to remind you of some background, the very first time the CEL went on I didn't have my own code reader, so I brought it to a shop. The guy seemed to indicate that the only code(s) he was seeing were for a minor evap leak, so he checked the gas cap, cleared the code(s) and told me to wait to see if it came up again.
The next time the CEL went on (about a week later) I had my code reader and saw the three evap codes (one major) and the P0135 O2 sensor code. I found the detached vacuum hose, reattached it, cleared the codes, and the evap codes have stayed off.
So a couple of questions:
1) It looks like the evap codes were caused by the detached hose and pre-dated (by a week) the O2 sensor code. Is it possible/likely that the detached hose *caused* damage to the O2 sensor? It seems unlikely to me that the O2 sensor was about to fail all on its own within the same week that the hose became detached.
2) Is there any chance that the O2 sensor isn't damaged and that there's just some "bad oxygen" in the system as a result of the detached hose, and that if I keep driving it for a while it will clear itself up and the code will stop firing?
do you have the ability to read short ant long term reading from that o2 sensor?
do you have the ability to read short ant long term reading from that o2 sensor?
The iOS app I have (iOBD2) appears to have the ability to read/graph data from the O2 sensors, but I don't have any historical data (in case that's important), since I just got the OBD2 reader and app since I started having the problem. But if that's not important, I could try to get some readings, but might need to learn more about how the app works and/or get some guidance, as that part of the app doesn't seem as user-friendly as the code reader/clearer functionality was.
While you could spend some time troubleshooting the P0135 error code, for the cost of the o2 sensor ( ~ $50 )
and about an hour of labor, you could just replace it. I had a P0133 code popping up every so often and
replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 1 o2 sensor with a DENSO 234-4138 part. Luckily this sensor is the upstream
drivers side sensor that can be reached from below and connects to the engine harness. The downstream
sensor harness goes into the car & plugs in beneath the console and is more difficult to replace.
A trade-in with no CEL codes will improve the cars value a bunch.
Regarding the O2 sensor, someone gave me a link to the Denso one on Amazon and I have considered trying my luck at replacing it..
So it sounds like you resolved the vaccumm leak, so disreagard my last post.
If you still want to take a crack at chaning the O2 sensor yourself, here is a video on how to do it. It is not the same car, but it has a similar engine. The sensor you want is on the left (US driver's side) before the catalytic convertor. You can rent the O2 removal tool from Autozone/Oreilly for free (you just need to leave a deposit)
Thanks everyone. I've cleared the P0135 code (O2 sensor) a few times now and it keeps popping back up after driving about 4-6 miles. The evap codes have remained clear. Meanwhile, I haven't found my future car yet, and I have a business trip in about 2 weeks with about a 4 hour drive there. Also, I've gotten the "bug" of wanting to learn how to fix some basic car things, so I'm thinking about buying that Denso part from Amazon and attempting this fix myself.
DashingDar, thanks for the YouTube link. I had also found a different one myself several days back that I watched. Unfortunately, I couldn't find one specific to the SC430. So, for those of you (FlopTop04, anyone else) who are familiar with this on the SC430, can you provide me with more details on where exactly I can locate this? I thought I had read somewhere that there was a cover of some sort that I might have to remove to be able to get access to this. Also, would it be beneficial and/or necessary to lift my car in some way? If so, what's the best/cheapest way to do that? The jack in my trunk? Some sort of ramps? In the future I might like to learn how to do our own oil changes, so I wouldn't be opposed to spending some money on something that I might get extra value from later.
Thanks everyone. I've cleared the P0135 code (O2 sensor) a few times now and it keeps popping back up after driving about 4-6 miles. The evap codes have remained clear. Meanwhile, I haven't found my future car yet, and I have a business trip in about 2 weeks with about a 4 hour drive there. Also, I've gotten the "bug" of wanting to learn how to fix some basic car things, so I'm thinking about buying that Denso part from Amazon and attempting this fix myself.
DashingDar, thanks for the YouTube link. I had also found a different one myself several days back that I watched. Unfortunately, I couldn't find one specific to the SC430. So, for those of you (FlopTop04, anyone else) who are familiar with this on the SC430, can you provide me with more details on where exactly I can locate this? I thought I had read somewhere that there was a cover of some sort that I might have to remove to be able to get access to this. Also, would it be beneficial and/or necessary to lift my car in some way? If so, what's the best/cheapest way to do that? The jack in my trunk? Some sort of ramps? In the future I might like to learn how to do our own oil changes, so I wouldn't be opposed to spending some money on something that I might get extra value from later.
please reconfirm you are getting a P0135 and not a P0134. Either code still points to Bank 1 Sensor 1 which is the left side or drivers side on a North American SC430.
the O2 sensor in question is attached to the exhaust manifold and is before the Catalytic Converter.
Now, if you are going to change this the first step is SAFETY. Leave the Lexus jack in the trunk and forget about it...it is only to be used in an emergency and never to work on your car.
this job may take you about three hours.
1. Use ramps, they are the safest. Apply the Emergency brake, block the rear wheels.
2. wear safety glasses and mechanics gloves.
3. purchase an O2 sensor socket, it has a slit on the side so the wires can stick out.
4. Remove the plastic under body cover(s).
5. Now you should be able to see the O2 sensor. you will see two, one before the cat and one after the cat. You want the one before the cat or closest to the engine.
6. Unplug the connector then remove the sensor.
7. Put high temp anti-seize on the new sensors threads and reinstall. Torque to 32ft-lbs and plug it back in.
8. Reassemble in the reverse order.
take your time and again, SAFETY FIRST, because we want to see more posts from you in the future!
Thank you guys for pics of those hoses. I changed my plugs today and found on passenger side large insulated hose "L" shape split on both ends pretty bad. I think its the ventilation hose #2 or part # 1226250090. Local parts store did not have so off to Lexus in morning to get that as it does not look like it can be swapped out with generic hose. I am hoping this finally fixes my check engine light!!!
Here is a video from my favorite youtube mechanic on how to use car ramps, jack up your car and change your oil. He even shows people how to find the right oil & filter
AS for your specific question about your O2 sensor. Follow BGW's instructions.
After step 4, (with the plastic cover off your car) you are going to lay on you back under your engine. Your head is going to be towards the front of your car.
Running right down the center of your car is going to be a round pipe. Follow the round pipe up towards the front of the car.
It is going to turn into a Y
Follow the y part on the drivers side.
You will see a cigar sized cylinder sticking out of it with wires, That is the BACK o2 sensor. THAT IS NOT THE ONE YOU WANT.
Keep following the pipe until you see a cylinder buldge. That is your catalytic convertor.
Go past that a little more unil you see another cigar sized cylinder. THAT IS THE O2 sensor you want.
Go onto step 6 of BGW's instuctions.
Brings back memories. Need to research where the sensor is located.
Not really a bad job. You have to scope it though and create a plan, then it is not as frustrating. This sensor's wiring was wedged in a tight spot. I had to cut it to get it off. The new one was installed another way, hence the wires are not pinched. You have to remember, they assemble the engine into the car in minutes.
05-02-17 | 01:11 PM
