texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...hey BCT, sorry for your issue & seeing this post late. I looked over my instructions posted on message #11, then went out to see if I could remember the process. I don't have a pulley removal, so either the pulley came off very easily or I used some type of object to keep the pulley from turning. I may have put something (possibly a small pry bar,screwdriver,ratchet,etc...) in the holes (on the face of the pulley) and used it as leverage (to keep it from turning), then used a ratchet or wrench on the bolt, to break it loose. All the directions that I gave were pretty much on point and getting that pulley off must not have been the hardest part, because I probably would remember doing it.....the biggest thing I would caution you on, is the small plastic clip, on the back of the alternator. It is easy to break, because I broke mine...lol....I was able to put the clip back on and wedge a small popsicle stick into the slot also, this kept the clip from moving and it's held for a couple of years now

BCT

texsexlex - No worries! I actually got the bolt for the PS pulley out. The pulley itself is somehow seized into the shaft, and I can not get it off. I have tried everything that I can think of (tapping it with mallet, soaking with PB Blaster for 2 days, even somewhat gently using a pry bar). It would not budge. I think I just need to use a puller. You are right the pulley should just come off easily. I saw a video of someone taking the pulley off for GX470 by hand after loosening the nut.

Out of my hand now. I am calling a mechanic to do this. But I will watch what he does so maybe I can learn some new trick.

Appreciate the reply!!

Bgw70

BCT

Just to close the loop here. I ended up calling a mechanic who used a puller. The PS pulley was stuck pretty good in there. I am guessing maybe the previous person who did this over tighten the nut plus some corrosion too. The alternator does not seems original one.

@Bgw70. Yes I went to local store. They did not have a puller that would fit. I got tired running around trying to find the tool. Appreciate your reply ^.

DshngDaryl

Even though the process was frustrating, at least you got your SC back on the road.

Out of personal experience, I know that after a couple of days of driving you will remember why you love your SC and all the hassle will be forgot.

MJakeGS430

texsexlex - i remember coming here and reading this and your thread when I replaced my alternator last Spring. It became an 5 hour undertaking for some of the reasons cited in this thread. (1) removing that pully, and (2) disconnecting that darn clip - mine broke too. The problem is you can't see the connector - you are trying to feel how to unlock and disengage it by hand - all the while holding up this heavy thing while on your back under the car - this took a very long time and was beyond incredibly frustrating. When installing the new alternator I put the connector back and then hit it with silicon with the hope that when it dries it keeps the connector intact and in place.

Fast forward to now - 1+ year later. The battery light came on yesterday. The other symptoms

battery light on
ABS light on
at one point the Airbag light came on
center console LCD map display cycled then shut off completely
digital clock started fading
green indicator light for air conditioning circulation shut off
also notice that dash (speedometer) back lighting was fading as was the little digital clock

but the engine kept on running

when engine revved up to 1500 rpm
lcd map display came back on as did green a/c circulation indicator light

but after a while even revving to 2k rpm couldn't bring these two back on line

after 2 hrs of battery recharging

digital clock was brighter
ABS and battery light warning lights still on

when increasing rpm to 1500 the lcd map display comes on as does a/c circulation indicator green light
when I let off gas to idle - lcd map display shuts off and green light goes out

In summary the engine keeps running but electrical items in the car (a/c indicator light, map display, digital clock, ABS, etc...) seem to be not getting enough juice to operate.
When my alternator failed last year everything died (including the engine) all at once.

Any ideas? Anyone experience this before? Of course it happens the day before the 4th of July. Ugh!

DshngDaryl

My first thought is the silicon did not work and the connector is loose, but really the power from the alternator comes from the cable going to the battery.

My first thought would be to check your battery connections and make sure they are clean and tight. Then check the harness and the battery connection to your alternator. Please keep in mind the battery connection to your alternator will be "Live" unless you disconnect the battery.

Ultimately, I think your alternator is going bad.

check to see if it is wet from power steering fluid. Many folks here say that is what killed their alternator.

GmanSC

MJakeGS430

Thank you very much for your reply. I just got off the phone with a Lexus service veteran and he agreed with you (and confirmed my suspicions) - that this is an alternator going bad issue AGAIN! He too expressed concerned with power steering fluid leakage onto the alternator - significantly shortening it's life. (That or it was just a bad part - which happened to my friend.) He sympathized with me, recognizing this isn't an easy DIY project given the cramped space, pulley, connector, grime, laying on your back and all. He said they charged 3 1/2 hrs of service time for this task.

My fear for doing this project again is that darn connector. It was a bit tattered when I reinstalled it - but I was still able to make a good connection - God only knows what condition it will be when I have to disconnect it again.

Question (1): Has anyone successfully replaced that connector - without having to replace the entire wire harness?
Question (2): How difficult (scale 1-10) is it to replace the power steering pump? Is it a DIY project?

I bought this car new and it now has 250K miles - done all the maintenance myself. It may be time to let her go. (sad face)

Thank you

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...sorry to hear you're having this problem MJake, luckily I haven't had any issues. I wouldn't think that it would be hard to replace the connector. After removing the alternator, you should be able to clip the old one off & replace with a new one, just make sure it's the proper size & the connection to the wire is done correctly. You may just have an issue with the connector, that you installed on the new alternator. The silicon may have worn off from heat,dirt, etc....& the connection could be loose, causing it not to charge all the time. After taking it off, I would definitely have it checked & if they say it's still charging, then I might look at the connector.........good luck either way

DshngDaryl

Man, it ALWAYS STINKS when you have to do the same job twice. The mental buildup can be overwhelming. But the second time is always easier, since you have already done the job once and know what to expect.

The connector probably won't be a problem. If the silicone held, then you can silicone it again. I think I used a ziptie, since my clip broke also.
You don't have to replace the power steering pump (though it is pretty easy) You just need to stop the leak. The leak is due to a poorly fitting clamp on your power steering reservoir. You just need to get a new clamp.

It maybe time to let the car go, but don't let this one issue be the deciding factor. The alternator maybe under warranty and you are only looking at a couple hours of work. Since you took off the power steering pulley less than a year ago, it should be loose enough to come off easier this time. Try using a jack stand to support the alternator while you get it into place.

What kind of alternator did you buy? Some companies buy cores and then just replace the parts that went out. These are the ones that usually have 90 day warranties. There are other companies that replace all the components, these are the ones with limited lifetime warranties. I of course recommend the ones with limited lifetime warranties.

tarheel49

Removed mine from the bottom as well.I think I read that on this forum. Got the alternator from Advance Auto. I have a friend with a lift, otherwise it would be a tougher job.

Harold57

I recently had a leak fixed from my power steering pump reservoir and my alternator appears to have died just over a week ago on my way home from work. (A rather exciting drive, NOT!) I managed to make it home before all the lights went out. The battery appears to be okay. I charged it to about 12.4 V and left it for a week (went on vacation) and it only went down to about 12.1 V, so I suspect that it is okay. So I plan to charge up the battery and drive it to the shop, hopefully, the battery will get me all the way there (probably a 40 minute drive).

So after reading this thread, I'm wondering if the leaking fluid got to my alternator or the connector? I guess that I'll find out this week.

Bgw70

Harold57

Well, the mechanic said that the power steering fluid didn't cause the alternator to fail. (The problem was my alternator as I had expected.)

For those who haven't experienced an alternator failure, here's how I saw it go down and determined that it had failed.

I was driving home and my radio started acting up. At first I suspected that my radio was starting to go out (it is 16 years old after all) and so changed over FM, it had trouble so I changed over to the CD and it had problems. Then I noticed that the battery light (a charging indicator, according to the manual) was on along with the light to its left. Shortly thereafter, several other dash lights started coming on and that was when the light bulb went on in my head realizing that I was experiencing an electrical problem that was either a bad battery or alternator. (Bad electrical connections could cause this also but since it came on so quickly, I could almost rule that out.) The next thing I saw was the cabin computer (a/c, mileage, time and temperature unit) blank out, basically resetting. Then I knew for certain that the voltage had dropped dangerously low. I was fortunate, in that, I was within a mile or so of the house when that happened, so I was able to limp home. (I was halfway expecting the car to die out on the last leg and have to coast my way up the driveway and into the garage but managed to keep it running up to where I parked.)

I charged up the battery and went on vacation the next day. The battery voltage only dropped about 1/2 V over the week's time span, so I felt fairly confident that the battery was good and had survived the ordeal (it was only 9 months old at the time). My plan was to fully charge the battery and drive it to the shop on battery only but since I have to drive about 20 miles to get there, the mechanics cautioned me to have it towed. (Older cars would have made it fine but today's cars have so much electronics in them I guess that the drain is too much.) So I had a flatbed come out and pick it up (I have towing insurance and figured that I might as well use it). The shop replaced the alternator with a Denso alternator and all the problems are now gone.

When you see these symptoms, shut off everything electrical possible. The a/c, sound system, GPS and any lights or chargers going on. (Obviously, don't turn off your headlights if you are driving at night, but keep in mind that the headlights are a huge electrical drain on the system.) Then get to a safe stopping point and park it, hopefully that will be your destination, as was in my case. Otherwise, you'll wind up stranding your car somewhere inconvenient. Make your stopping location your choice, rather than your battery or alternator's choice.

Hope that helps.