SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

What the solution to that Power Steering Leak people always talk about?

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Old 03-13-20 | 06:00 PM
  #46  
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DJHydrogen
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Originally Posted by Andreiu
With old hoses, there will be a good layer of dried PS fluid that creates a nice bond. You have to twist the hose until it brakes this. Then just keep tension while twisting and it will eventually work its way off. I've used small flathead screwdriver to brake the seal on delicate parts. You could gently score with a razor blade until it peels off.

It was super stubborn and took a few minutes of twisting and rolling and inching my fingers down until it popped off.

My vacuum lines were surprisingly in good shape. There should be a diagram on the hood edge to refer to. I'll try to find a diagram for you when I have time. At some point I need to go back in and check my work to make sure it's held, but that might be awhile.

Pro-tip - the flushing and filling instructions out there are good, but understate how much spray pressure just turning over engine car will cause. Fluid everywhere in my garage and it still stinks weeks later.
:/ The diagram doesn't show those two lines. No CEL from them being how I put them back. Too rainy and cold to work much, but bring back under there just now, there seems to be no room coming in from the top to pull off the lower end of the hose... Did you pull more than the airbox out?

Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
Old 03-16-20 | 07:22 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DJHydrogen
:/ The diagram doesn't show those two lines. No CEL from them being how I put them back. Too rainy and cold to work much, but bring back under there just now, there seems to be no room coming in from the top to pull off the lower end of the hose... Did you pull more than the airbox out?

Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
I pullout out the airbox, the scoop, and loosened the module that the vacuum lines attached to (can't remember what it was).

I was able to reach the line from the front of the engine with my right hand.

I first removed the reservoir and let it soak in degreaser and soapy water.

For the lower line, I think I grabbed the metal line form the front of the engine and twisted and pulled the old rubber line until the seal was broken. Then I used two hands on the rubber line. One hand just kept gentle pulling and the other hand I just kept twisting until it worked it's way off.

New hose was much easier to get on. I applied lucas powersteering stopleak generously. After I got the hose halfway on the metal line, I applied some permatex and slid it the rest of the way. I fished a worm gear clamp down there. Since your vacuum lines aren't there, you can probably get the oetiker clamp in there.

Also, found another leaky rubber fitting. This one is underneath behind the skid plate. There's a rubber elbow hose wrapped in a heat shield sleeve with spring clamps behind the steering rack on the DR side (I think). Same situation where the old hose was cracking and letting fluid leak. But it doesn't risk dripping onto anything critical, so I'm only going to replace mine when I notice fluid level dropping.

If you still need help, I'll see if I can take a video of the vacuum line location. I have to go back under there in the next week or two for something else.
Old 03-21-20 | 02:11 AM
  #48  
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DJHydrogen
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Originally Posted by Andreiu
I pullout out the airbox, the scoop, and loosened the module that the vacuum lines attached to (can't remember what it was).

I was able to reach the line from the front of the engine with my right hand.

I first removed the reservoir and let it soak in degreaser and soapy water.

For the lower line, I think I grabbed the metal line form the front of the engine and twisted and pulled the old rubber line until the seal was broken. Then I used two hands on the rubber line. One hand just kept gentle pulling and the other hand I just kept twisting until it worked it's way off.

New hose was much easier to get on. I applied lucas powersteering stopleak generously. After I got the hose halfway on the metal line, I applied some permatex and slid it the rest of the way. I fished a worm gear clamp down there. Since your vacuum lines aren't there, you can probably get the oetiker clamp in there.

Also, found another leaky rubber fitting. This one is underneath behind the skid plate. There's a rubber elbow hose wrapped in a heat shield sleeve with spring clamps behind the steering rack on the DR side (I think). Same situation where the old hose was cracking and letting fluid leak. But it doesn't risk dripping onto anything critical, so I'm only going to replace mine when I notice fluid level dropping.

If you still need help, I'll see if I can take a video of the vacuum line location. I have to go back under there in the next week or two for something else.
Leak fixed! I was getting suspension stuff done and the shop asked what the (power steering) house in the car was for. For $160 out the door, I got that put on properly, the front sway bar bushings, and both sides rear arms and links installed! (I provided all the parts, saved a TON vs whatever their parts guy had, and used Moog parts!)
Very, very happy.

Than you so much!

p.s. still curious which vacuum hose goes above the other, but no CEL yet
Old 03-21-20 | 01:34 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Andreiu
I fished a worm gear clamp down there. Since your vacuum lines aren't there, you can probably get the oetiker clamp in there.
On these "low pressure" type connections, the spring clamps are superior to the worm-gear or the Oetiker clamps. Spring clamps won't apply uneven pressure and/or distort the hose due to overtightening, or as is not the case for the Oetiker clamp, are easy to remove for future maintenance. Toyota, the kings of reliability, most of the time are using the best type of parts for each application, and one is often best served by using the OEM type parts for replacement.
Old 03-23-20 | 10:40 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by DJHydrogen

p.s. still curious which vacuum hose goes above the other, but no CEL yet
If I recall, the two hoses go to the power steering air control valve that makes your car turn smoothly at all time (Whether you are driving, or at a stop light turning) They are non specific.

This is what Dorman says.
"Power Steering Air Control Valve helps regulate the powering steering pump. When the steering wheel is cut it draws vacuum from the intake manifold to boost performance and aide in effort-less turning. When the valve malfunctions power steering fluid can be sucked into the engine and burned."
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