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In your post #5 above you have three charts. I don’t know the EXACT state of the roof for each chart and you probably don’t either. There are several values changed in the first several items on the list between the charts.
Proof lock switch: when the roof is locked closed (top all the way up) the value should be: ON. When the roof unlocks before moving to the trunk the value should be: OFF one of the charts is different but I don’t know what you did, i.e. press the close button and locked the roof or not.
same thing for the roof close switches RH and LH ...these values should be the same depending on the “state” of the roof.
Since the roof really never moved they all say ON which is correct ...if the roof moved far enough they should change to OFF
You have an interesting situation because normally the system won't start if everything doesn't pass the Self Test.
I had a similar experience where the trunk opened and the roof started to come out and the system stopped. It turns out the "Motor Pulse width left" (or something to that effect) was the problem. In layman's terms, the retracting motor on the left wasn't in synch with the retracting motor on the right. Since the weight of the roof is so heavy, the motors have to go at the exact same speed for the top to work.
I tried following the instructions to manually closing the top but my ultimate solution was to turn on the car and push the close button over and over until the top closed.
It took about 5 times. (When I say over and over, I mean Turn on the car and push the button)
It is not the recommended solution, but it worked the one time I needed it to.
Techstream doesn't store roof codes (as you know) So you have to have your engine on and techstream running before you start. Then you push the roof button. It may light or it may not. Either way, techstream will give you a code instantly. If the top works, you won't get an error, but you can watch the live data of the top opening.
Good point, I had to change my battery shortly after this happened. Still you think the alternator would be pushing out enough amps for the motor to keep it from being a problem
Roof pulse codes from his charts are within tolerance (within 200) of each other but too low overall. Normal roof pulse range on my 02 is 1600-1700 pulses. But why are we not getting DTCs? Starting to point towards the Roof ECU. Did he say the car was out of commission for a year????
Roof pulse codes from his charts are within tolerance (within 200) of each other but too low overall. Normal roof pulse range on my 02 is 1600-1700 pulses. But why are we not getting DTCs? Starting to point towards the Roof ECU. Did he say the car was out of commission for a year????
No. The roof haven't been opened at least a year. It's a 2005. I did the roof and looking for changes in techstream and hoped a code popped up. But nothing. I'll try to get a recording of the top procedure and where it's stuck tomorrow and the techstream data recording while pushing the open button. But I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I'm thinking maybe I hear one latch instead of two. Maybe one is not working? But wouldnt that give an error code?
Ahh... That kind of helps. The latches are manual. As the top opens, the latches are released.
If the motors are good the procedure would start, but it would stop if the latches don't release.
You need to take out the carpet in your trunk area. It isn't hard, just time consuming.
There are cables up near your passenger cabin on both sides. As the trunk opens, it pulls on the cables and releases the latches into the cabin.
Once the carpet is out, it is easy to see the cables and latches. The key carpet to remove is the ones on the side, but you have to take out the back carpet first
Here is a picture WIL44 posted. I circled in red where the cable driven latches are. There are other latches on the hinge, but I think one of these is the problem (possibly came loose or is broken)
Jx if you are referring to the A pillar latches, there are two,
controlled by one motor, a mechanical linkage and a switch. See first diagram. Then there are all of the other failure points, in the second diagram.
One of the things you can try for your theory is manually release the latches.
It’s explained in the owner’s manual and the tool is in the trunk.
04-23-18, 03:35 PM
