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Jx if you are referring to the A pillar latches, there are two,
controlled by one motor, a mechanical linkage and a switch. See first diagram. Then there are all of the other failure points, in the second diagram.
One of the things you can try for your theory is manually release the latches.
It’s explained in the owner’s manual and the tool is in the trunk.
OK. I'll check out the manual to see if I can do it manually and get back.
Here is a picture WIL44 posted. I circled in red where the cable driven latches are. There are other latches on the hinge, but I think one of these is the problem (possibly came loose or is broken)
Thanks for the pic. Im just taking a guess it's the latch. It seem like roof is trying to "tug" backwards to the trunk but something keeps on stopping it. But I do hear the latch. I probably will end up pulling the carpet. Will get back with more info
Did you try manually unlocking the A pillar latches?
Did you do a new active test?
Any new codes?
In the previous tests Roof pulses were not in a valid range, any change? (Don’t need to be identical, but do need to be within 200 pulses of each other- post#24 above)
from the limited moment in the video it looks like the A pillar latches DID unlatch, but it’s hard to tell. They may not have retracted completely.
If they did, then it’s now pointing to the trunk hinges as mentioned by Daryl.
has the car always made those squeak/groaning sounds when the windows go down?
Did you try manually unlocking the A pillar latches?
Did you do a new active test?
Any new codes?
In the previous tests Roof pulses were not in a valid range, any change? (Don’t need to be identical, but do need to be within 200 pulses of each other- post#24 above)
from the limited moment in the video it looks like the A pillar latches DID unlatch, but it’s hard to tell. They may not have retracted completely.
If they did, then it’s now pointing to the trunk hinges as mentioned by Daryl.
i was thinking the same with the latch, that's why i mentioned it, but does sound like it's working. i will check the pillars this weekend. active test is greyed out so i can't test it. if it comes down to the latch hinge. what specifically am i looking for if nothing is visibly broken ?
Regarding the A pillar latches. These two photo (passenger side has red handle in background) show how far the latches retract when released from the A pillar receiver.
If you get it open manually, a thorough inspection should be done. Another member discover tape inside the receiver that interfered with one of the switches.
The silly part is the reason it stopped working is because of a small piece of tape I'd put on a pin to stop a clunky sound, and the tape had come off & gotten stuck against one of the switches! Go figure!I got that tip from here:
Clunk sound fix:
“What fixed it for me was something i saw on here a long time ago, there is these two rubber covered "sticks" one on each side that enters these two holes the the top is closing. The two "sticks" stick out like sore thumbs out of the roof and on my car the rubber on the sticks was completely worn out which caused the clunking on slopes and driveways. You can simply tape it with really thin felt tape or some kind of other tape to replace the worn rubber. Hope this helps, it sure did for me”
And yep it definitely stopped the clunk, but then when the tape came off, well no more top up/down for me.
Guess I'll have to figure out where to get a replacement pin (anyone know where to start looking for that?) for the passenger side or try another piece of tape & know what the consequences could be if it were to come off again.
So the "A pillar latches" control the front of the top where it attaches to the Windshield. Based on the video, I think those are working.
The trunk hinge tugs on a cable attached to a pivot. That is the part I circled in red. The pivot tugs on another cables that retract some kind of a pin that run from the rear window assembly to the flat part of the top. When they are retracted it allows the roof to bend in half properly. (Which I think is the part that is not working on your car)
When you take out the carpet, you want to make sure the cables are still attached to the pivot.
When I purchased my car my top did not work. I reattached the cables, and the top worked, but not properly. It turns out that the cables where hooked in place, but backwards. All that to say you want to look at your working latch to see how to connect the other.
The cable attaches to the rear of the hinge and then through some sheathing to the front pivot. The front pivot attaches a second cable to the latches. All the cables have barrel ends on them that slip into little hooks. The hooks are custom made for the ends, so it is easy to see where they go.
You are looking for three things:
Either a Broken cable, a Disconnected cables, or hooks that came un-bent some how.
OK. I tried messing around with the gear shaft but it didn't make a difference. I saw the gear shaft spinning and the latches moving in the gap between the windshield. I added pressure to the rear roof area to see if it would open. Here is the video. Also not sure what happened. But it still close fully now and there's a gap. Visual inspection of the rear gears in the trunk seems fine. Im planning pulling the trunk carpet later but not sure what I should be looking for except broken hinges, etc. As for the front roof latch I think it's working fine. It seems like the roof it pulling back a little but no sure why it just stops.
Next step pull trunk garnish and inspect hindges as Daryl has indicated. I’m still perplexed on the lack of Trouble code(s).
K. I'll try this weekend. Yep no trouble codes. I'll take picture an upload it when I'm done. Those trunk hinges seem fine as I pulled on the green cord and lift the whole trunk up with no problem. Not sure if it's supposed to be really loose or tight though. Think tight so trunk doesn't come slamming down?
Either a Broken cable, a Disconnected cables, or hooks that came un-bent some how.
When you take out the carpet, you want to make sure the cables are still attached to the pivot.
The trunk hinge tugs on a cable attached to a pivot. That is the part I circled in red. The pivot tugs on another cables that retract some kind of a pin that run from the rear window assembly to the flat part of the top. When they are retracted it allows the roof to bend in half properly. (Which I think is the part that is not working on your car)
04-23-18, 05:33 PM
