Harold57

I thought that I’d name this thread in a way to make it easy for folks to search for rearview mirror repairs in the future.

Retroplay did a write up on repairing the dome/map light switches in 2015, so I’ll just reference it here rather than repeating it. Here is the link to that thread (see post # 111).
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-to-mod-8.html

Also, when replacing the original bulbs with LEDs, be sure to get reversed polarized LEDs or un/non polarized LEDs, as the polarization of the sockets are just the opposite of what is generally accepted (center post is ground rather than 12 V). The original bulbs are BA9S.

One of my map lights has been acting up for a while. It wasn’t coming on reliably and then I could hit it and usually make it come back on. I opened it up and touched the light and it would come on. So it was either a bad connection somewhere or a bulb issue. I twisted the bulb once and it came on and it appeared that the top of the bulb was twisting and not the base, so I replaced the bulb. It worked great for a while and then returned to its old intermittent habits.

I took out the entire assembly to diagnose and finally discovered that there was a bad connection to the tab that connects to the bulb’s base. The connection appears to be the rivet tying the wiring crimp eyelet to the chrome-like tab that connects to the bulb. I tried messing with the rivet but couldn’t reliably restore the connection, so I finally gave in and soldered a wire from the crimp to the tab. Keep in mind that if you decide to do the same, you’ll need some flux to make the solder stick to the chrome tab, as that material doesn’t like to be soldered otherwise. The crimped eyelet will likely need to be cleaned before soldering also as it oxidizes.

While I was in there, I also decided to attack the door switch in the rear view mirror. It has been cantankerous for a while now. After taking it apart, I noticed that it had oxidized. So I used some contact cleaner on it and then some fine sandpaper to clean it. (I should use some conductive grease like Retroplay suggests but didn’t have any at the time. Maybe later.)

The right way would have been to drill out the rivet and insert a new one but the rivets are so small that I don’t have any the right size.


Cabin view prior to repair


Roof view prior to repair


Cabin view after repair (red wire added)


Roof view after repair (red wire added)


Door switch disassembled prior to cleaning


Door switch after cleaning (see copper pieces in and outside the module)

Harold57

Well, the solder job held for a while, then gave out. (I think it was because I used the wrong kind of flux the first time.) So I re-soldered it using the proper flux and it held well, until the whole piece fell out, the rivet gave out as you can see in the photo. So I went to the ole tool chest and found I had some 3/32" rivets. I had to remove the old rivet and drill out the various holes to 3/32" and it fit well, only I had to insert the rivet from the other side to let the head and the tool fit. So a 3/32" rivet will fit and work but you'll have to slightly enlarge the hole.

Notice the piece that holds the bulb is loose.

Here it is after the new 3/32" rivet is installed.