Replaced spiral cable in steering wheel
#1
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My horn stopped working and a couple buttons on the left side of the steering wheel also. The malfunction was dependent on the steering wheel position. This pointed straight to the spiral cable in the steering wheel. I decided to give it a go. I have a service manual on disc and read how to get to the cable. JohnnyCake has had a couple put in his SC and I get the feeling that this is not uncommon. He suggested I write up a how to so here goes. I have a 2006 and the part I used is a genuine Toyota 84306-51030. I paid $168 on eBay. There are off brand cables that only cost $40. I was unwilling to take that chance with the airbag involved. Please make sure this part fits your year if you attempt this. I am not sure they are all the same.
1 straighten your wheels
2 disconnect the battery. How long it needs to be disconnected is under debate. I didn't start on the job for an hour.
3 remove the cover on the buttons at the left of the steering wheel. It just pops off.
4 remove the two phillips screws holding the buttons to the wheel.
5 the assembly hangs there and you remove the electrical connector. Set this aside.
Now the fun starts
6 the airbag is held in by two T-30 screws. One is under the plate that you just exposed on the left and the other is under the small access hole on the right. Remove the small disc. The screws have a retainer built in to eliminate them falling into the steering wheel. You must pull the screws into the retainer to have them clear the airbag. If you don't, you will not be able to remove the airbag. This was not in the manual. It took me a while to figure it out. Unclip the electrical connector in the back of the airbag and set the airbag aside.
7 Once the bag is out you will have access to the steering wheel. Remove the single electrical connector at the top of the wheel.
8 I suggest you have a steering wheel puller on hand. I needed one. Mark the position of the steering wheel in relation to the steering shaft. It is important it be put back on in the original position. Remove the wheel by taking off the 19mm nut.
9 Remove the three screws that hold the lower plastic part of the column and remove the cowling.
10 Remove the three electrical connectors. They are all different and you will not get them confused.
11 Pull out the cable assembly.
12 Transfer the steering wheel position sensor to the new cable. Two tabs are released and it is just pushed on to the new cable housing. Very easy.
13 Push the cable over the steering shaft. It just snaps in. Reattach all the electrical cables.
14 There is a locking tab on the new unit. It is orange. Pull it out. This allows the cable to rotate. If you had everything lined up properly put the steering wheel back on in it's original position. Attacth the lower column cowling. The cable is keyed and should align itself as you put the wheel on. Reattach the 19mm nut that holds the wheel on. I don't know the torque spec. I used the spec "tight". I don't want that in my lap at some point. Attach the electrical connector at the top of the wheel.
15 Replace the airbag and tighten the two T-30 screws.
At this point, just reassemble everything and you should be good to go. The local Toyota dealership wanted over $500 to do this job. All controls on my wheel are now functional.
My biggest hurdle was the two T-30 screws that have to be pulled into the retaining clip. I wish the manual had mentioned that. I spent at least 45 minutes trying to get the airbag out without success before I figured it out. Once the screws are in the right position the bag comes right out without effort.
Hope this helps.
1 straighten your wheels
2 disconnect the battery. How long it needs to be disconnected is under debate. I didn't start on the job for an hour.
3 remove the cover on the buttons at the left of the steering wheel. It just pops off.
4 remove the two phillips screws holding the buttons to the wheel.
5 the assembly hangs there and you remove the electrical connector. Set this aside.
Now the fun starts
6 the airbag is held in by two T-30 screws. One is under the plate that you just exposed on the left and the other is under the small access hole on the right. Remove the small disc. The screws have a retainer built in to eliminate them falling into the steering wheel. You must pull the screws into the retainer to have them clear the airbag. If you don't, you will not be able to remove the airbag. This was not in the manual. It took me a while to figure it out. Unclip the electrical connector in the back of the airbag and set the airbag aside.
7 Once the bag is out you will have access to the steering wheel. Remove the single electrical connector at the top of the wheel.
8 I suggest you have a steering wheel puller on hand. I needed one. Mark the position of the steering wheel in relation to the steering shaft. It is important it be put back on in the original position. Remove the wheel by taking off the 19mm nut.
9 Remove the three screws that hold the lower plastic part of the column and remove the cowling.
10 Remove the three electrical connectors. They are all different and you will not get them confused.
11 Pull out the cable assembly.
12 Transfer the steering wheel position sensor to the new cable. Two tabs are released and it is just pushed on to the new cable housing. Very easy.
13 Push the cable over the steering shaft. It just snaps in. Reattach all the electrical cables.
14 There is a locking tab on the new unit. It is orange. Pull it out. This allows the cable to rotate. If you had everything lined up properly put the steering wheel back on in it's original position. Attacth the lower column cowling. The cable is keyed and should align itself as you put the wheel on. Reattach the 19mm nut that holds the wheel on. I don't know the torque spec. I used the spec "tight". I don't want that in my lap at some point. Attach the electrical connector at the top of the wheel.
15 Replace the airbag and tighten the two T-30 screws.
At this point, just reassemble everything and you should be good to go. The local Toyota dealership wanted over $500 to do this job. All controls on my wheel are now functional.
My biggest hurdle was the two T-30 screws that have to be pulled into the retaining clip. I wish the manual had mentioned that. I spent at least 45 minutes trying to get the airbag out without success before I figured it out. Once the screws are in the right position the bag comes right out without effort.
Hope this helps.
The following 7 users liked this post by iolmaster:
Bgw70 (10-22-18),
Harold57 (10-22-18),
Jabberwock (10-23-18),
JDaveSC430 (10-22-18),
JohnnyCake (10-22-18),
and 2 others liked this post.
#2
Lead Lap
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Thanks iolmaster. Good write up. So knowing now that you have pull the screws into the retaining clip, how long do you think that the entire process takes (ignoring the leaving the battery disconnected time)?
#3
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I would say going slowly since most of us will only do this once in a lifetime. (I hope) It probably took about 1.25 to 1.5 hours. Really not bad at all. I would love to know if anyone had ever used any of the off brand cables. They are about 25% of the cost of the one I bought. The Toyota dealer wanted $307 here in Virginia. Just for the part.
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Harold57 (10-23-18)
#4
Pole Position
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Thanks for the write up!
If it helps anyone, here is a video on how to do it
If it helps anyone, here is a video on how to do it
The following 4 users liked this post by DshngDaryl:
#5
Lexus Test Driver
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Great job iolmaster and Darryl...having the written step by step and the video will make the job easy for the next person.
it looks like an easy job.
BTW, all yellow cables and connectors will always be for the airbags...yellow is the standard color in any car.
it looks like an easy job.
BTW, all yellow cables and connectors will always be for the airbags...yellow is the standard color in any car.
#6
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Thanks for the write up!
If it helps anyone, here is a video on how to do it https://youtu.be/8UPzuTzMaak
If it helps anyone, here is a video on how to do it https://youtu.be/8UPzuTzMaak
#7
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I can't find my receipts right now, but as I recall this was really pricey to repair at the dealership. Around here, the drivers are such morons that a working horn is a necessity to prevent crashes. With this write up, next time I'm gonna do the repair myself. Thanks!
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#8
Pole Position
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If you look at the video, you can see there is another harness port in the clockspring. That is for the newer cars with a two stage airbag.
I bought one of the generic ones for about $25 bucks, but it was a two stage for a newer car and the base did not fit my 2005. I ended up sending it back.
According to the video, you can split the clockspring apart and use the old base and the new top to make it work.
I dunno if I would personally do it, but if you end up with the wrong clockspring and don't want to take off your steering wheel 3 times, you might want to try the modification.
I bought one of the generic ones for about $25 bucks, but it was a two stage for a newer car and the base did not fit my 2005. I ended up sending it back.
According to the video, you can split the clockspring apart and use the old base and the new top to make it work.
I dunno if I would personally do it, but if you end up with the wrong clockspring and don't want to take off your steering wheel 3 times, you might want to try the modification.
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daddiojigg (06-17-20)
#9
Pole Position
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Just hope I never have to remove the steering wheel. Do not like the airbag deploys.
Last edited by GmanSC; 10-23-18 at 11:05 AM.
#10
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If you look at the video, you can see there is another harness port in the clockspring. That is for the newer cars with a two stage airbag.
I bought one of the generic ones for about $25 bucks, but it was a two stage for a newer car and the base did not fit my 2005. I ended up sending it back.
According to the video, you can split the clockspring apart and use the old base and the new top to make it work.
I dunno if I would personally do it, but if you end up with the wrong clockspring and don't want to take off your steering wheel 3 times, you might want to try the modification.
I bought one of the generic ones for about $25 bucks, but it was a two stage for a newer car and the base did not fit my 2005. I ended up sending it back.
According to the video, you can split the clockspring apart and use the old base and the new top to make it work.
I dunno if I would personally do it, but if you end up with the wrong clockspring and don't want to take off your steering wheel 3 times, you might want to try the modification.
#11
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Ugh! My horn works sporadically and with this write-up & video I may attempt it! I own a 2006 so it should be exactly as you wrote up. Thanks, iolmaster! I've toyed with the idea of buying one of those cheaper Chinese parts, but am wary of them being the typical Chinese quality - poor! Will probably bite the bullet and pay for an OEM part. $168 sounds better than my local Lexus dealer wanted. Even my local mechanic wanted $500 labor to do this job. The time in the Lexus Service Manual must be 5-6 hours. However, I'm with GmanSC being fearful of the airbag deploying. Guess I'll just have to get over that and get to it. Sounds like a good winter project.
Rich
Rich
#12
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I have changed a few 'clocksprings' over the years, a '02 Lincoln LS and a '03 vette to name a couple. I must say this SC procedure looks a lot simpler to do. Both the Ford and GM autos had a connecting wire that needed to be fished down the steering column where as the Lexus does not. If I remember correctly the LS part was just as pricey and that was 15 years ago.
#13
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: TX
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Thanks everyone. I think if I had seen the rest of the responses, I would have still had my Lexus specialty shop do this. I discovered the night before the appointment that my radio ‘mode’ buttons was also not working and who knows what else.
So, I was in at 9:30 and it was done in 35 minutes. Took longer for them to take it to the car wash.
My genuine Lexus part was $480 and “only” $217 labor plus tax- and comes with 2 yr warranty (parts and labor) as does everything at this authorized Lexus Only shop. Nothing one can do to prevent it and cause is just ‘happen stamce’- Just Happens.
Some do some don’t- my 2002 didn’t -198,000 miles.
my 2007 just did at 103,000 miles.
thanks again
Bob in Texas
So, I was in at 9:30 and it was done in 35 minutes. Took longer for them to take it to the car wash.
My genuine Lexus part was $480 and “only” $217 labor plus tax- and comes with 2 yr warranty (parts and labor) as does everything at this authorized Lexus Only shop. Nothing one can do to prevent it and cause is just ‘happen stamce’- Just Happens.
Some do some don’t- my 2002 didn’t -198,000 miles.
my 2007 just did at 103,000 miles.
thanks again
Bob in Texas
#14
Lead Lap
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Glad to see that you got it resolved Bob.
#15
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Thanks for the thread, I was doing some research online and it seems 84306-51030 and 84306-50180 spiral cable fit sc430
im confused which one to go for.... will both work for 2006 sc430?
https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsda...430650180.html
im confused which one to go for.... will both work for 2006 sc430?
https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsda...430650180.html