Help installing beatsonic In SC430
#17
It works!
didnt do anything different this morning. Just re-did 2 of my crimped wire connections (the red being one of them) to make it stronger. And also connected the ground this time...it wasn’t connected last time.
quick question on the microphone how did you fish out from the main center console over to the side, is it just a matter of removing glovebox or is it more involved.
didnt do anything different this morning. Just re-did 2 of my crimped wire connections (the red being one of them) to make it stronger. And also connected the ground this time...it wasn’t connected last time.
quick question on the microphone how did you fish out from the main center console over to the side, is it just a matter of removing glovebox or is it more involved.
#18
It’s done thanks for your help! The only thing I’m not in love with is that I can see a part of the metallic harness on top of the unit. Wondering if metra’s dash kit is any better? I’m willing to take this back out if I could hide the bracket.
i had a duh moment when I could not play the radio but then realized I needed to hook up the antenna (that wasn’t in the instructions).
It it was a pain to get the unit in, wrapping the beatsonic in electric tape made it bigger and bulkier to work with but I wanted to protect the wires
Last edited by nprest2; 03-10-19 at 02:34 PM.
#20
yep everything is working!! Thanks for your help couldn’t have done without you. At a low point I was going to take it to a local radio shop and have them do this for me but thanks to the help on here and putting things down / coming back the next day it all worked.
im guessing I did a poor crimp connection last night which is what made me not have power.
I ordered the bypass kit for the green wire that you linked me to. I’ll add that next weekend.
Im about to take a drive test and see how it works on the go. I did not connect the purple wire or green wire and did not connect anything to the nav headunit
im guessing I did a poor crimp connection last night which is what made me not have power.
I ordered the bypass kit for the green wire that you linked me to. I’ll add that next weekend.
Im about to take a drive test and see how it works on the go. I did not connect the purple wire or green wire and did not connect anything to the nav headunit
#23
@Bgw70 how do you take off the home link / light console. I wanted to put my mic in there like you but it’s tough. I may have messed up my honelink in process and it’s still not coming off
remove the the light covers and you should see two screws. Remove them and gently pull down...
#25
The Homelink / map console is fairly easy to take off. I believe that there are instructions in a couple of other threads, probably with pictures but I don't remember.
Basically, just pry the lens covers off from the sides. Use something like a 1" putty knife to prevent from scarring up the module. Insert the knife in between where you see the two little clear plastic tabs going into the module and pry the lens away from the module's side to allow the tabs to pop out.
After removing the lens, I believe that you may need to remove the light bulb but I don't remember for sure. At that point, you should see a Philips (JIS?) head screw (one in each light cavity). Remove those two screws.
With the screws removed, it is a matter of pulling down on the module in such a way as to get the tabs from the module loose from the ceiling. With the module loose, you'll have to disconnect a connector in the cable and it will be loose.
What is it that you believe has happened or would merit removing the module? If your map lights aren't working, check your radio door. Both are on the same fuse. If neither are working, then check the fuse.
Basically, just pry the lens covers off from the sides. Use something like a 1" putty knife to prevent from scarring up the module. Insert the knife in between where you see the two little clear plastic tabs going into the module and pry the lens away from the module's side to allow the tabs to pop out.
After removing the lens, I believe that you may need to remove the light bulb but I don't remember for sure. At that point, you should see a Philips (JIS?) head screw (one in each light cavity). Remove those two screws.
With the screws removed, it is a matter of pulling down on the module in such a way as to get the tabs from the module loose from the ceiling. With the module loose, you'll have to disconnect a connector in the cable and it will be loose.
What is it that you believe has happened or would merit removing the module? If your map lights aren't working, check your radio door. Both are on the same fuse. If neither are working, then check the fuse.
Last edited by Harold57; 03-10-19 at 03:23 PM.
#26
The Homelink / map console is fairly easy to take off. I believe that there are instructions in a couple of other threads, probably with pictures but I don't remember.
What is it that you believe has happened or would merit removing the module? If your map lights aren't working, check your radio door. Both are on the same fuse. If neither are working, then check the fuse.
What is it that you believe has happened or would merit removing the module? If your map lights aren't working, check your radio door. Both are on the same fuse. If neither are working, then check the fuse.
#27
@Bgw70 thats interesting you could not send a pm I just checked my settings and messages are enabled
i ended up wiring the mic on the top glass and hiding the cable in the black panel that rests on top of the glas. The mic itself sits on the plastic cover piece where the mirror attaches, you cannot see it from the drivers side. I’ll take a picture for you today. This was my temporary solution because I could not figure out homelink last night. I may just keep it there assuming it does not move.
The quality of calls is so much better top down. Previously I had to use my air pods to make calls while driving as folks had a hard time hearing me. I really love this kit.
My next project will be to upgrade the DVD player in the trunk to have a better image on the factory screen like in the newer SCs (I have a 2006, I believe the 2010 nav maps, software looks better / more modern).
#29
I took a look at a few other pictures online, it appears most folks have some sort of gap on top where they can see the metallic mounting bracket, looks the same way in the metra-kit youtube videos
I know its personal preference but what are your thoughts about keeping the wood grained door versus getting rid of it to have a kit thats flush with the climate control? Here is one i found on the forums here that looks really nice
I know its personal preference but what are your thoughts about keeping the wood grained door versus getting rid of it to have a kit thats flush with the climate control? Here is one i found on the forums here that looks really nice
#30
Both doors, navigation and radio, are closed 95% of the time in my car. I prefer the wood look to the radio. It also makes it less tempting for an opportunistic thief. Out of sight, out of mind. That new CarPlay unit could be tempting.