Raven01750

OK. Well, I recommend you start a new post about that one and tell us the why's and expected results. It would also be really nice to see some before and after dyno results. Pretty please. LOL. Nice to know we have a good mechanic here locally. The shops I have been to over the last few years have been less than stellar. Even one I have delt with for over 25 years. They just can't get good mechanics anymore. The younger generation never grew up with the trades and its showing.

Paul

joemg

I thought it was me!!! I moved here from the NYC area and It's taken me forever to find shops I trust/like. I was starting to think it was like some weird west coast laid back cultural difference or something, lol. That's why I wanted to make it a point to give these guys a shout out on here.


I will def start a thread for the manifold once it arrives. I tried 2 local junkyards to find the vehicles stripped bare before I got there, so I started reaching out to salvage yards one by one on car-part.com (useful site, but most of the salvage yards are not that easy to work with) until I found one that had it cheap and with the whole assembly (the swap requires the 2uz rails/injectors).

I wish I could do a before/after dyno, but since we can't tune our engines (toyota ECUs are locked down tight) there really isn't a good reason for me to spend the money.

The 2 guys who did it on the GS both gave very positive anecdotal reviews for whatever that's worth. The short of it is that the 2uz manifold is taller, so the runners are longer and produce more torque. Because both our manifold and the 2uz manifold have 2 sets of runners, the theory is that you're not giving anything up to get that torque like you normally would, since there are still short runners until the long ones open up (like our manifold). Also, it's a smooth plastic manifold, so in theory you would be reaping the same benefit as if you had a polished manifold, and maybe also some pseudo-science about heat transfer that I'm not convinced is a real benefit (since air moves through the manifold very quickly)

SlvBullet

iTrader: (8)

there are two pairs of bushings. One pair in the subframe and another pair of smaller ones on the support arms of the diff.

good luck

joemg

The OEM bushings were still in great shape so I just kept them. Everything went smoothly after we realized we needed the 02-05 axles.

joemg

Since I had the car up on a lift, I took a pic of the diff installed.

Raven01750

LOL. Nicest looking part under the whole car! So, we know you have a lot of things going on in your upgrade quest for the perfect SC, anything to report on noticeable improvements?

Paul

joemg

I would say the best bang for your buck in noticeable, everyday improvement was the Aristo front swaybar & ISF rear swaybar (I also have a front strut tower brace, but I feel like that was less noticeable). Pretty inexpensive, not that complicated to install, and really makes the handling the way I would have liked it from the factory without feeling like I've turned my luxury car into a tweaked out racecar.

The LSD is pretty hard to notice day to day, but with full exhaust and extrude honed intake manifold coming up, I'm thinking that's when the LSD will really start to shine since that should add some significant torque.

I'm REALLY excited to see how the big brake upgrade goes when I finally get around to bolting that up. Just looking at it on paper, I predict that will be a really great value upgrade, especially since I can do that myself (no labor cost, and the big lexus calipers (460 front/430 rear) are inexpensive for what they are. Hell, the caliper brackets cost a little more than the actual calipers, lol.


I will definitely give a full report on the power mods since they're much more uncommon (and much more expensive, lol). I might even price out a few dyno pulls, if it's inexpensive, I would love to have some real numbers instead of internet-math. Or maybe someday if there's a minimal-hassle way to do a proper tune to get the most out of everything, I would love to do that.

These will probably be the last of the big mods for a while since I more/less budgeted most of this into the price of buying the car.

alex2016g

This seems to be the most recent LSD thread so I will curry on here.

First of all congrats Joe on installing your LSD. I constantly spin one of my wheels. Its really annoying.

I was looking at stock part numbers and was hoping that some one would know some info.
There seem to be 7 different differentials for mk4 auto twin tubo supra and they all have 3.769 gear ratio. Here they are:

41110-14820
41110-14821
41110-14822
41110-14823
41110-14851
41110-14852
41110-14853

Are they all LSD?
I got my information HERE and it only has an lsd designation next to the ones ending in 51, 52, 53.
Is this correct? I didint realise they built an auto twt supra without an lsd?

joemg

I think this has the information you need, I can't believe I didn't paste this earlier in the thread, it was really helpful when I did my research:
https://www.grannasracing.com/blogs/...al-information


As far as I know, there are only 2 differential options and they're the same (even though the part numbers are slightly different). 1) the Mk4 TT Auto diff 2) the Aristo diff.

I can't remember if all TT Auto Mk4s had a LSD and I can't remember if all Aristos did. Maybe that thread covers it, I can't remember.


Strangely enough, I had an easier time finding an Aristo diff imported for less than a USDM mk4 TT auto diff, lol. Anything that says "Supra" on it is like JDM gold now.


Post pics when you get your hands on one!

GmanSC

Dump question: what’s LSD ?

joemg

Limited Slip Differential. The stock differential is an "open" differential.

Here's a good video that explains what a LSD is and how it works/why you would want it:

That video is pretty in-depth... TL;DR: A LSD allows power to transfer from one wheel to the other when traction is lost on one of the wheels.

alex2016g

The link that you posted earlier states that 98-97 TT auto came with Code A02A(non LSD) and A02D (LSD)

I dont seem to see these codes on any of the original descriptions to part numbers. Any idea where tis code can be found? Is it stamped on the side of the dif?

joemg

ahh, that sounds right, I couldn't remember since it's been about a year.


That's a good question, I don't believe those numbers are actually anywhere on the diff.
Here's a thread talking about it:
https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showth...the-difference

In post 4 there's a pic I can't view that compares them... I tried registering so I could view the pic but the registration doesn't seem to be working correctly, maybe you'll have better luck.

alex2016g

Cant see the picture but they say its of the internals of the dif.
Thank you for the thread at least now i know that there are no markings and the only way to check is to open one up or to order a part for the 93-96 TT auto. You can also see from the link that I posted that all the LSD's are $4000+ and the presumably non LSD are $2000+

joemg

I think you can also tell it's a LSD by spinning one side of it, if the other side spins the opposite direction it's a LSD.

wow $4k?! I went with an import of an Aristo diff, Japanese cars come off the road a lot earlier than US cars, so JDM parts tend to have (allegedly) 50k or less on them. I've been running mine for a year with no issues, I think I posted the ebay seller earlier in the thread if you decide to go that route.