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Did you notice any reason the bottom damper gaskets are the four toothed kind? On some of the parts site diagrams, both the upper and lower damper gaskets are listed as identical, un-toothed ones. I got plenty of both kinds.
CT160 fuel injector flow measurement/cleaning machine arrived. Not high end, but should do the job. Cost was comparable to getting all 16 fuel injectors flow tested and/or rebuilt. I have 8 remanufactured injectors from fiveomotorsport.com plus the eight currently in the engine. I could simply install the remanufactured injectors, but want to check their flow matching. Also, wanted to check how bad off the old injectors were. Having that done commercially was going to cost (16 x $40) more than the machine and we'd miss out on the adventure.
Unfortunately, must await good weather for the fuel damper / fuel injector project. Too many ignition sources inside the garage. Unlike doing just the dampers, I am assured of spilling more fuel from inside the rails when I pull the injectors.
Plan is to pull the old injectors, flow test them. Then, DIY rebuild/clean the original 8 injectors. Finally, flow test all 16 injectors and install the best matching 8 injectors.
Relative to the fuel damper, both gaskets are "bottom". So, instead, I am going to refer to the gaskets relative to the fuel supply line...one gasket is above the supply, one gasket is below the supply.
The top gaskets are the four-toothed kind. Part No. 23232-41081. I believe the fuel is flowing up into the damper through these gaskets. The 4 tabs center the gasket around the OD of the damper.
The bottom gaskets are just rings. Part No. 90430-12026. No fuel flows through these, and their diameter matches the bottom threaded portion of the damper.
Does this clarify?
Also, I'm afraid to ask......and can't recall if I read it already elsewhere......but what the heck are you doing with all your injectors?!?!?
Thanks that perfectly explains the two different gaskets.
Fuel injectors are being done because they are last thing left in my efforts to reduce a bank 1 negative long term fuel trim at idle. Not a big magnitude just about -8%. Already cleaned air mix passages with only partial reduction. Upstream O2 sensors also replaced. Injectors are last thing left.
23.5 mpg mixed so system is compensating but I would like to fully correct so less correction is needed from ECU.
Fuel dampers are going to get swapped out since I will need to remove the fuel rails. One is missing its screw anyways.
CT160 fuel injector flow measurement/cleaning machine arrived. Not high end, but should do the job. Cost was comparable to getting all 16 fuel injectors flow tested and/or rebuilt.
Can you tell us more about this machine--cost, brand, model?
Can you tell us more about this machine--cost, brand, model?
To avoid further pulling this off-topic, I won't have further comments here regarding the Autool CT160. It's a Chinese machine that may require some work to get it functioning, but I won't know until I get into it. Will write more about it when time comes in a new thread for the fuel injector project. It's about $300 AliExpress or eBay.
I was really lucky to have come across this thread. My fuel pressure damper was replaced (DIY at $150 for parts) and resolved my problem of smelling fuel. Thanks for the post!!!
I was smelling gas, saw some on top of the passenger side fuel dampener. I read this, tightened the screw and the leak stopped. Can it really be that easy? I had already ordered a new one before I did that. I'll keep an eye and nose on it but would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.
i smelled gas when i tried to turn the car on and I cant find the diagram or part number or name anywhere, its leaking from this hose this picture is taken from the under the drivers side anyone have any ideas as to which piece this is, or a diagram of where i can find the replacement parts thanks. Im assuming the fuel system is not getting enough gas to the engine because of this, before i ship it to my buddy who is like a wizard with cars I would like to rule out everything i can. I mean I changed the starter myself and all the hoses that where broken when doing so. but these fuel ones I cant find and the people at the parts center at the dealer were clueless...
i smelled gas when i tried to turn the car on and I cant find the diagram or part number or name anywhere, its leaking from this hose this picture is taken from the under the drivers side anyone have any ideas as to which piece this is, or a diagram of where i can find the replacement parts thanks. Im assuming the fuel system is not getting enough gas to the engine because of this, before i ship it to my buddy who is like a wizard with cars I would like to rule out everything i can. I mean I changed the starter myself and all the hoses that where broken when doing so. but these fuel ones I cant find and the people at the parts center at the dealer were clueless...
It's hard to see from your pic where this connection is. Too, I'll preface my remarks by saying I have not had to work on my SC's fuel system, so my perspective is limited. That said, it looks like a connection between the fuel tank and the chassis. It looks like it has been stressed, strained and/or distorted, perhaps from taking a hit, or from someone dropping the tank? You'll likely have to disconnect the line and see if you can replace the connector. If replacement isn't possible, perhaps you could fix it with a new seal and/or other replaceable parts. Worst case, you would have to drop the tank and replace the fuel line from where it originates at or in the tank, up to the point of the leaking connector (likely included when buying the line).
Send a wider pic showing the location of the leak. That you know of, has anyone dropped your fuel tank in the past?
BTW...You don't have to worry about the engine being starved for fuel, but, do you need to worry A LOT about the fire danger of any fuel leak!
sry for the delay guys i couldnt reply from my phone cause it makes me login every time i go on club lexus and god knows where the password is...I seem to have about 100 different passwords for hundred different sites... heres a vid that is hopefully a little better and no the tank had never been dropped and that stupid metal clamp was my attempt to stop the leak, all that did was move the leak up a few inches... oh and that skid plate i mention was the actual tank...
Since you put a clamp on it, I think you have realized your problem is that your hose barb is not fully fitted into your hose. You should not be able to see any bumps. There is a good chance that is because the hose is split and why when you clamped it, the leak moved up the hose.
If you are lucky, you can pull on the hose and see if there is any slack. If there is, you can probably cut off the split end and push the hose connector all the way in
I think you need part 7770-4A but I am just guessing.
Is there another part between the hose from the tank, and fuel line going forward? It almost looks like a check valve, but it isn't clear why it would be clamped only on one end (not both ends). The bad news...to fix it with OEM parts, one would likely need to drop the tank. However, it's likely the connection could be fixed much less expensively without dropping the tank. It will simply require someone with the proper know-how, parts, and tools. Any aftermarket parts used for the repair need to be rated for high pressure fuel lines.
Last edited by Wilson2000; 05-14-24 at 10:46 AM.
Reason: clarity
thanks but after replacing about 5 different hoses when I did the starter change if it is cracked/torn, Im almost certain I am going to have to find the hose part # and replace it as these hoses once there is a tear are not at all forgiving maybe because of the age of the vehicle, I did notice the new hoses i got from the dealer were made of a higher grade material than the originals, not all but some so Im guessing I'll have replace it thanks for the diagrams guys, this at least gets me a heck of a lot closer to driving her again...
04-08-21, 01:27 AM
