SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

02 sc430 smelling like gas

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Old 05-14-24, 10:53 AM
  #31  
syphered
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i dont know if there is another part in between the hose and tank looks like im gonna have to drop the tank.and find out....will keep you posted.....
Old 05-14-24, 01:52 PM
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DshngDaryl
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Originally Posted by syphered
t thanks for the diagrams guys,
Did you click on the link I posted before? It is an interactive listing of all the parts. That is where I got the diagram from
https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/...-tank-tube-301


Old 05-14-24, 02:01 PM
  #33  
DshngDaryl
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Originally Posted by Wilson2000
Is there another part between the hose from the tank, and fuel line going forward? It almost looks like a check valve, but it isn't clear why it would be clamped only on one end (not both ends). The bad news...to fix it with OEM parts, one would likely need to drop the tank. However, it's likely the connection could be fixed much less expensively without dropping the tank. It will simply require someone with the proper know-how, parts, and tools. Any aftermarket parts used for the repair need to be rated for high pressure fuel lines.
Are you saying a person could come in with a hose barbs, two clamps and and some fuel line and splice it into the broken hose? They could possible access the hose from the access ports under the back seat? That makes sense...

Old 05-14-24, 05:37 PM
  #34  
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fuel hose line, thats what i need! and whether i remove the back seats or drop the tank, Im pretty sure dropping the tank should be a little easier, just cause there isn't that much room to work in there.Im only 5'10 225llbs. but i did get hit by a car in April of 2023 walking across the street, which broke my back so im not exactly as limber as before or lookin forward to trying to remove the back seats with only the little room back there. Removing the tank straps seems easier in theory, but im gonna get on it tomorrow and let you guys know what happens...
Old 05-14-24, 05:40 PM
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and of course dshngdaryl without those diagrams I wouldn't even attempt what im about to do, they are greatly appreciated
Old 05-15-24, 05:48 AM
  #36  
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Back seat is actually fairly easy to remove and if you put the top down you will have lots of head room.
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Old 05-15-24, 07:53 AM
  #37  
Wilson2000
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Originally Posted by DshngDaryl
Are you saying a person could come in with a hose barbs, two clamps and and some fuel line and splice it into the broken hose? They could possible access the hose from the access ports under the back seat? That makes sense...
Since I'm not there to put hands on the leaking parts I can't say exactly what how to fix the leak, but, yes, I think the connection could be re-engineered and fixed without dropping the tank, or even removing the back seat to get to access panel. It wouldn't be stock (OEM) but it would be safe.

I looked into dropping the tank on my MR2 one time and it was very involved...required removing a whole lot of stuff that's in the way.
Old 05-15-24, 12:39 PM
  #38  
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never again working in the heat alone!! since i havent started the car since i discovered the fuel leak i dare not try and put the top down(with my luck it would get stuck and i don't feel like doing it manually by myself) which may have saved me today, taking out the back seats takes 5 seconds, unbolting the three plastic nut that hold the triangle circular cover another 30 seconds trying to find the see if i could remove the sending unit from up top 1hr, trying to see if its actually the hose that needs to be replaced, I couldn't tell you cause i passed out from heat exhaustion. thank god for my dog who woke up by bringing me actual water bottle a licking my face. he's a belgian malinois who was trained as a service dog. I checked the cameras he jumped over the fence 3X after not seeing me for a while and went back and got me a water from the fridge we have outside also several people walked by saw me slumped over hanging half dead out of my car and just kept on walking.(I wonder what there thought process was???) anyways from now on i will always work at night and not when the internal temp of the car is 105 degrees Fahrenheit and preferably with Rex.
oh and as you probably can tell i tried goin through the top to see if i could find the hose from there before dropping the tank, as i know some sending units can only be removed from the bottom, i am only looking to replacing the line that's leaking/torn. and you can only smell the gas from outside the car, not under the hood or while inside of the car it just when you walk by the outside and see the little puddle.
Old 05-15-24, 02:20 PM
  #39  
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Wow, that is some dog you got there. He is quite impressive.

There is a sending unit/fuel pump on one side of the back seat and another access panel on the other side of the seat. I would remove both of them and see if it helps you at all.

You can just turn your car to Key Position one, and there is enough charge in your battery to open the roof. However, it will probably try to prime your fuel system causing more fuel to spill out.

With the heat and all, you may just want to see if your mechanic can do it? After all, a trip in an ambulance for heat exhaustion (Or a trip to the vet because your dog didn't clear the fence all the way) will probably cost you more than getting it repaired by a guy who is paid to be in the heat all the time. Also, if your car catches fire due to a fuel spill, it is their insurance that has to pay, not yours....
Old 05-15-24, 02:28 PM
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Another reason I think you should take it into a mechanic is because I think I steered you wrong. The hose I thought it was, goes to your charcoal canister. Now I think it is the hose from your fuel pump (77209b)

Really, I am just some guy on the internet who may or may not know what he is talking about. (and mostly guessing) You should take it to someone who is a professional and can actually see the problem
Old 05-15-24, 03:13 PM
  #41  
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unfortunately due to my brother abusing the car for six months turning the key does jack crap, lol it has a stupid viper alarm with an AutoStart which he just had to go put in. I just needed to see which hose it was and im almost certain its the one that connects from the sending unit. and thank you my dog is awesome. He cost about what the lexus cost when it was new. and has helped me throughout the toughest times in my life. one of my uncles recently died who resided in Utah where Rex was living and he told me the 10 acres the house and the cars were all mine when he died, his original will left everything to my other uncle, he died before he could change his will. he decided to leave everything to me because I was the only one who would visit him once a month when he had cancer and left Rex there so he wouldn;t be lonely one of the vehicles was a 2020 silverado 3500 HD quad cab Silverado. I drove up there with said living uncle and he wanted the dog rex to sell him i made him a deal, you keep the stupid truck i'll take Rex back and we will split the rest down the middle. And im in the process of trying to preserve my half before he sells everything not nailed to the floor... but i got off topic sry you mentioned my dog, hes a Malinois, they can climb three story buildings no problem, hes gotten on the roof of the house several times. and believe me if i knew a half decent mechanic who wasn't swamped with work already i would have dropped my car off before the starter issue debacle...
Old 05-15-24, 09:17 PM
  #42  
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Don't let Double-Dee (Dashing Daryl) sell himself short. He's a valuable resource on CL and in the SC430 Forum!

You really need an extra set of hands and eyes to pinpoint the leaker. Or, if you have a remote camera, like a baby monitor, you can set it up on the leaking connection, and then go to your access hole and pull on the supsect hoses, one at a time, and see if any show movement on the other end. If not, try all hoses from both access holes. My guess is it is the hose coming from the output side of the fuel pump, going to the chassis, but it could also be the return line which flows at a similar psi.

Don't jump to conclusions when you see the leaker wiggle while moving the hoses at the access holes. If hoses cross, or share a routing block, wiggling one might wiggle all. Once you have no doubt about the problem hose, you can fish the new hose through from the leaking side by cutting and temporarily clamping it to the new hose. Then, you can pull out the old while treading through the new hose in one step (hopefully).

Are you working outside or in a garage? It's advisable to work outside when dealing with gas fumes...they're highly explosive! If it's too hot outside, work in the early morning or early evening, and/or pitch a canopy over the car to keep the sun out. Too, drink plenty of water. Heat exhausting can be serious, so don't do that again! I loved the pooch-power component of your account! Good luck going forward.
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Old 05-17-24, 10:27 AM
  #43  
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It should be noted here that if it was leaking at all, the diaphragm inside is damaged. You just stopped the leak with the screw as a cork. ;-)

paul
Old 05-18-24, 03:22 PM
  #44  
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ok so i removed the line that the leak was coming from and found out that it was a semi flexible plastic line covered by the outer hose which wasnt torn on that end, my only conclusion is that if our friend raven meant the plastic piece that slides into the hose was worn out although it show no signs of wear maybe under pressure is where the leak was coming from....

this is the only piece where the leak could have been originating from... and like i said or raven meant, maybe under pressure one of the internals failed on the circled part...

Old 05-19-24, 09:21 AM
  #45  
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Did you check the other side of the connection? the metal part that slips in? Or the part that comes from the fuel pump? if there is a leak in an upper part, the fuel will run down the hose and drip at the lowest part


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