Aftermarket wheel question
#46
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Joe, sent you a PM. I have the exact same wheels I scored for cheap from someone local. Bought 15mm spacers for them but wasn't enough for the LS400 front calipers. Also bought 245/35R19F and 285/30R19R for them. Also have coilovers to adjust for rubbing. Curious how your setup worked out. Hoping I can make these work.. Have you measured your track width? You run 20mm spacers front, none in the rear? Or 5mm rear? Can you get away with 5mm on the OEM studs?
I'm replying to your PM here incase other in the future have similar questions:
$400?! What a steal! I'm jealous, lol. Nice score! 19x9 & 19x10 staggered?
I have a 20mm spacer on the front, I didn't plan it that way, but I happened to already have them when the wheels wouldn't fit over my brakes (ls460 brakes are even more enormous than the LS400s). No spacers on the rear. 245/35/19 on the fronts, 285/35/19 on the rears (+1 bigger than oem diameter on the rears). You might be able to get away with just trimming the fender liners (which you can probably do yourself, if you have to roll them I would take it to a place that does that frequently). I think I paid $150 for rolling the front fenders if memory serves.
I'm down in San Diego, btw. I went to a place called "SoCal Suspension" who specialize in bagging cars and lifting trucks, so trimming/rolling fenders is right in their wheelhouse (pun intended). I recommend finding a place like this if you end up needing them rolled since it's really easy to crack the paint if you DIY or get a place that isn't doing it often.
Overall, I couldn't be happier with how the car looks/rides after all was said and done. I can't stop looking back at it when I'm walking away, lol.
Also, I highly recommend the lexus center caps in post 29 if you like that oem+ look.
Let me know if you have any other questions, wheel fitment can be a pain and I'm happy to share my experience.
EDIT: corrected, I have 20mm spacers on the front, not 25mm like I originally wrote in error.
Last edited by joemg; 03-12-21 at 05:50 PM.
#47
Instructor
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I want to do the same LS460 caliper with ISF rotor install on mine.. I have TSW's as well, but thankfully the fronts have the spokes at the very edge of the rim. Its only the rears where they are further in and there is a bit of a dish. So I am hoping this will fit on mine..
The other option to use https://ceika-store.com/ and they will custom build a big brake kit with lines, and everything which is guaranteed to bolt right on with no issues, but its a lot more expensive. It's a good chance to get some 6 piston calipers, but they all have the giant CEIKA logo on them which I dont like.. lol
The other option to use https://ceika-store.com/ and they will custom build a big brake kit with lines, and everything which is guaranteed to bolt right on with no issues, but its a lot more expensive. It's a good chance to get some 6 piston calipers, but they all have the giant CEIKA logo on them which I dont like.. lol
Also, for whatever it's worth, I don't think the 6-piston ceikas will give you anything more on the street than the LS460 calipers with the ISF rotors. I literally could not be happier with the way the car stops now. Unless you're tracking it, but even then I think you could use that money to shave seconds off your lap times in better ways. IMHO
#48
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I wanted to remap my ECU, but I was warned that it wont be doable in CA without the car failing smog.. is this true?
I was thinking of having the extra ECU from my wrecked parts car being modified, and then just swapping them around when I need to smog the car.. I can imagine that would be a pain in the ***, but these cars are quite neutered from the factory to be honest. Without adding any power at all, and just getting a hotter torque converter, and a very good tune, will probably be enough to drop the 0-60 by VERY noticeable 3-4 tenths of a second, while taking care of the dull feeling our cars give when stabbing the "go" pedal. I saw a video on youtube with a 2003 model or something like that with an aftermarket torque converter, and off the line the car can spin the rear wheels without having to powerbrake it. Its quite a difference in the application of power to the wheels to be able to do that especially on a stock car, since these cars dont normally spin the rear wheels just from jumping on the gas like that.
The only time I ever was able to burn out big-time in my 2006 was when I had run-down run-flats and pulled out of a driveway into a street going uphill.. My Lincoln Mark VIII on the other hand, you have to be careful not to spin the tires even with traction control on and its a bigger car but weighs the same at just under 4000 lbs, and has roughly the same power while stock.
I was thinking of having the extra ECU from my wrecked parts car being modified, and then just swapping them around when I need to smog the car.. I can imagine that would be a pain in the ***, but these cars are quite neutered from the factory to be honest. Without adding any power at all, and just getting a hotter torque converter, and a very good tune, will probably be enough to drop the 0-60 by VERY noticeable 3-4 tenths of a second, while taking care of the dull feeling our cars give when stabbing the "go" pedal. I saw a video on youtube with a 2003 model or something like that with an aftermarket torque converter, and off the line the car can spin the rear wheels without having to powerbrake it. Its quite a difference in the application of power to the wheels to be able to do that especially on a stock car, since these cars dont normally spin the rear wheels just from jumping on the gas like that.
The only time I ever was able to burn out big-time in my 2006 was when I had run-down run-flats and pulled out of a driveway into a street going uphill.. My Lincoln Mark VIII on the other hand, you have to be careful not to spin the tires even with traction control on and its a bigger car but weighs the same at just under 4000 lbs, and has roughly the same power while stock.
To digitatc's point, in normal mode I believe it's more/less stock. But if you want to be sure, just save your OEM ECU and get a new ECU for the mod, that's what I did because I was the first one to do this and I had no idea if the new ECU would even work, lol.
#49
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Also, Toyo Proxes are great tires, I have them on my Miata and they've been great!
I'm in SD btw... Sorry guys, I'm just getting to reply to all these now.
Once this pandemic calms down we should do a SoCal SC meetup/cars & coffee or something.
#50
Driver School Candidate
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Yes. 19x9 +30 and 19x10 +25 Guy tried to fit them on his Nissan Z but rubbed with spacers trying to clear the brakes. For $400, I took a gamble hoping they might fit. Figured I could sell them if not. They have a couple scuffs, from sitting around his garage but nothing bad.
The 15mm spacers may have cleared. It is close. Problem is the OEM studs stick out past a 15mm spacer and these wheels don't have enough clearancing between the lug holes to accommodate. So the wheels won't sit flush on the spacers. I considered nipping off the tips of the oem studs, still may. Just don't want to do it only to find out they don't clear. Could also drill out the space between the lug holes on the wheels to see if the 15mm spacers clear. Wouldn't take much. Even thought about picking up some 3mm hubcentric spacers and putting them on the bolt on 15mm spacers to give me 18mm. Hate having to use spacers, but what other choice is there unless you go custom wheels.
Just to confirm, you have a 25mm in the front? The thread I thought it said 20mm. If that is the case, you think with 15mm-18mm I would even need trimming or rolling? What all gets trimmed as far as the liners go? Just got new liners to put in. Originals got destroyed. Son just dropped off the wheels and tires to get mounted. Will pick up in the morning. Go from there. Will either order 20mm spacers, or some 3mm to stack onto the 15's.
The 15mm spacers may have cleared. It is close. Problem is the OEM studs stick out past a 15mm spacer and these wheels don't have enough clearancing between the lug holes to accommodate. So the wheels won't sit flush on the spacers. I considered nipping off the tips of the oem studs, still may. Just don't want to do it only to find out they don't clear. Could also drill out the space between the lug holes on the wheels to see if the 15mm spacers clear. Wouldn't take much. Even thought about picking up some 3mm hubcentric spacers and putting them on the bolt on 15mm spacers to give me 18mm. Hate having to use spacers, but what other choice is there unless you go custom wheels.
Just to confirm, you have a 25mm in the front? The thread I thought it said 20mm. If that is the case, you think with 15mm-18mm I would even need trimming or rolling? What all gets trimmed as far as the liners go? Just got new liners to put in. Originals got destroyed. Son just dropped off the wheels and tires to get mounted. Will pick up in the morning. Go from there. Will either order 20mm spacers, or some 3mm to stack onto the 15's.
#51
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Yes. 19x9 +30 and 19x10 +25 Guy tried to fit them on his Nissan Z but rubbed with spacers trying to clear the brakes. For $400, I took a gamble hoping they might fit. Figured I could sell them if not. They have a couple scuffs, from sitting around his garage but nothing bad.
The 15mm spacers may have cleared. It is close. Problem is the OEM studs stick out past a 15mm spacer and these wheels don't have enough clearancing between the lug holes to accommodate. So the wheels won't sit flush on the spacers. I considered nipping off the tips of the oem studs, still may. Just don't want to do it only to find out they don't clear. Could also drill out the space between the lug holes on the wheels to see if the 15mm spacers clear. Wouldn't take much. Even thought about picking up some 3mm hubcentric spacers and putting them on the bolt on 15mm spacers to give me 18mm. Hate having to use spacers, but what other choice is there unless you go custom wheels.
Just to confirm, you have a 25mm in the front? The thread I thought it said 20mm. If that is the case, you think with 15mm-18mm I would even need trimming or rolling? What all gets trimmed as far as the liners go? Just got new liners to put in. Originals got destroyed. Son just dropped off the wheels and tires to get mounted. Will pick up in the morning. Go from there. Will either order 20mm spacers, or some 3mm to stack onto the 15's.
The 15mm spacers may have cleared. It is close. Problem is the OEM studs stick out past a 15mm spacer and these wheels don't have enough clearancing between the lug holes to accommodate. So the wheels won't sit flush on the spacers. I considered nipping off the tips of the oem studs, still may. Just don't want to do it only to find out they don't clear. Could also drill out the space between the lug holes on the wheels to see if the 15mm spacers clear. Wouldn't take much. Even thought about picking up some 3mm hubcentric spacers and putting them on the bolt on 15mm spacers to give me 18mm. Hate having to use spacers, but what other choice is there unless you go custom wheels.
Just to confirm, you have a 25mm in the front? The thread I thought it said 20mm. If that is the case, you think with 15mm-18mm I would even need trimming or rolling? What all gets trimmed as far as the liners go? Just got new liners to put in. Originals got destroyed. Son just dropped off the wheels and tires to get mounted. Will pick up in the morning. Go from there. Will either order 20mm spacers, or some 3mm to stack onto the 15's.
oh, you know what? My brain wasn't working, you're correct, they are 20mm in the front, I sold the 25mm ones I had on hand. I didn't have to do anything with the studs, so you should be good.
My personal opinion is not to stack spacers, I don't have any science to back that up, just my gut feeling.
So yeah, You should be good if you get some 20mm hubcentrics. You're talking about drilling out space on the wheels themselves? If you were going to do that, I would have done it before the balance. I'm thinking you might throw the balance off when you remove material.
#52
Driver School Candidate
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So, ended up chopping the nipples off the OEM studs. Gave me about 4mm of clearance and the wheel clears now with the 15mm spacers. They do clear the calipers, but by a bee's d*ck. A credit card won't fit. Would need to pull out my feeler gauges to measure them. Not sure if with heat, flex, whatever, that they could still touch. Thoughts? We are waiting to paint the calipers still, so could clean up the calipers a shade and repaint. Maybe buy myself 1mm of clearance.
Have you measured your track width? I measured from the wheel lips, front and rear. Fronts are roughly 3/8"-1/4" wider than the rear. I'm guessing yours must be more with 20mm spacers. 1/2" or so? May run 5mm spacers in the rear, get it closer to even.
Would my offset right now be +15 F / + 25 R Then add the 5mm rear spacer bringing the rear to +20? Then again, the actual tread width of the tires is about dead on when I think about it. The front 245/35 tire is stretched a little bit to fit the 9" wheel. The 285/30 sits perfect on the 10" rear so I may be good and just overthinking this!
Have you measured your track width? I measured from the wheel lips, front and rear. Fronts are roughly 3/8"-1/4" wider than the rear. I'm guessing yours must be more with 20mm spacers. 1/2" or so? May run 5mm spacers in the rear, get it closer to even.
Would my offset right now be +15 F / + 25 R Then add the 5mm rear spacer bringing the rear to +20? Then again, the actual tread width of the tires is about dead on when I think about it. The front 245/35 tire is stretched a little bit to fit the 9" wheel. The 285/30 sits perfect on the 10" rear so I may be good and just overthinking this!
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joemg (03-17-21)
#53
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I never measured the track width, I thought about doing 5mm on the rear to even them out but I was having rubbing issues until I adjusted the coilovers and by that point I was satisfied with the look/feel and just wanted to get it aligned.
#54
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Now that you got me thinking about it, I think I might try adding the 5mm to the rear since it's sitting a little higher now than when I tried (pre-coilovers). I still have them sitting around, so I might as well give them a try.
EDIT: I threw the spacers on today, seems to not rub at all. It should be noted that I have the little plastic wedge/screw that holds the rear bumper in place in the wheel well removed on both sides (3M body panel tape ftw). This piece sticks out more than anything and will ultimately be your enemy if you're getting low and wide.
EDIT: I threw the spacers on today, seems to not rub at all. It should be noted that I have the little plastic wedge/screw that holds the rear bumper in place in the wheel well removed on both sides (3M body panel tape ftw). This piece sticks out more than anything and will ultimately be your enemy if you're getting low and wide.
Last edited by joemg; 03-22-21 at 06:01 PM.
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