Im not entirely sure if that one will fit. The one @evgeniy linked me is 50mm deep so ~2".

I think I'm going to go with this one (Model #4) since it is the same one he used, but the newest 4GB 8 core model.

I was planning on running the backup camera all the way to the front, but I started wondering... Since we're deleting the factory nav unit, I wonder if it would be easier to piggyback off the existing nav wiring in the trunk since that already runs the same route I would need to follow.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with

 

You my friend sound Brilliant.

Other than it effects the ease of going back to OEM, Tracing/picking a pair of wires and splicing into them sounds like a great idea.

 

Nowhere near as brilliant as you assume lol. Wiring isn't my strong suit, I'll be getting help from a friend with all of that. But since I'm not a fan of the OE nav system, I have no desire to revert these changes. I'd also rather not disassemble anything I dont need to. I have to assume there's a reason others aren't doing it this way though.

 

I'm glad that i could help you, hope video will done your work easy)

 

I greatly appreciate all the help so far! I plan to do an extensive write-up on my install once I'm done. I've already ordered the android unit and backup camera. Now I just have to wait a month for the android to arrive from China.

 

I'm wondering what the total depth available would be with the navigation door assembly completely removed.
I'd be keeping the door open all the time anyways. So, zero loss in function for me to completely remove the stock navigation display assembly.

Would be great if a larger than 7 inch screen Android Car would fit if one completely removes the flip door mechanism. I'd happily trade loss of the OEM door for a larger screen unit or to fit a deeper unit with octacore processor.

alex2016g suggests that an 8 inch unit could be fitted, but what about the available depth?
I could pull the unit out myself to measure but would appreciate someone else's already gathered measurements

 

I considered that as well, but figured I wasn't yet up to the task of even further modifications. I still have my nav assembly out on my workbench. If there's any specific measurements you're interested in, let me know and I'll get them to you.

 

Most interested in the available depth inside car dash with nav unit removed.

I can get width and height of the opening, but how deep an Android car would fit is the question. Building a bracket to mount instead of the factory nav / door assembly would be a part of my plan rather than attempting to retain the door and its frame

I already have the line level audio input issue solved with my iPod line level input. Just have to route some wires. Retaining factory radio so it continues to be available and adjusts the ML amp.

Looking at BobVTBI's picts, it appears the wire loom and air ducting is the depth limitation. So, I'm interested in knowing how far it is from the plane of the back edge of trim piece (green) to the wire loom (purple). If the loom is movable, then how far to the air ducting.

 

While awaiting info regarding the opening depth, I ran across this "shallow" Alpine unit https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500ILX...-iLX-W650.html at Crutchfiled. It's not a as customizable as a Chinese Android Car unit, but it does have full EQ and time alignment capability for audio. A lot of the JVC, Pioneer, and other car audio name brand units have fairly advance audio settings capability. I'm particularly interested by the auto EQ and time alignment capabiility which does not seem to be available on the Chinese units. Audio quality is very important.

EDIT: joemg was also interested in this unit, but I may have a bit more room because I'm willing to delete the navigation door completely.

Crutchfield has accssories for complete replacment of the main head unit in the SC430, but this shallow unit in the navigation slot + their interface modules might be a good intermediate step while still grabbing an interface system to enable future upgrade of the main head unit.

Just need to know if a 3 inch deep unit would fit in the navigation opening. It would be a better position than down low where the ML head unit currently resides. I would hood it in as a secondary audio source and retain the ML head unit for now. Getting the interface modules seems a good idea given how our SC430 is a discontinued vehicle and interface modules are likely to become non-available in the near future.

 

Gave up on measurements and ordered the CarlaOER #4 unit (4 gb RAM / 64 gb 8 core) as well. We know that fits and Evgeniy has demonstrated that type working. I plan to make a new mounting bracket and print a surround fascia for my install. If I were really ambitious I'd tap into one of the (soon to be unused) Nav door control buttons to control an audio relay to switch sources, but that's well into the future. For now, the main thing is to get basic iPhone CarPlay, audio playback, and navigation functions working.

Biggest reason was the OEM Navigation display position is the only location that a GUI based head unit and navigation unit is near line of sight during driving.
Placing a larger, more advanced PX6 unit would require it to be in OEM head unit location. I would have loved to get PX6, blue tooth 5, and built-in wireless CarPlay, but the CarlaOER is probably the most advanced unit in the form factor that fits.

Also picking up (but not using for this project) a Metra 99-8161S Dash Kit (Silver), Axxess ASWC-TOY-LEX Steering Wheel Control Adapter and Axxess TYTO-01 Wiring Interface in case I want to also replace the ML head unit in the future. Grabbing the interface still now to avoid a future "product discontinued" problem.

 

Sorry for the delayed response, I was out of town this weekend and unable to get those measurements until this afternoon. Glad to see you went with the same unit as me. I'm hoping to wrap up my install this week, I've just been swamped with other projects. Fortunately I was able to fit that unit with some trimming in the OE brackets, so you won't need to make any custom brackets unless you want to.

I can't wait to see what your setup looks like all buttoned up! If you decide to retain the nav open/tilt functionality, let me know and I can send you the first revision of my 3D printed enclosure for the nav PCB.

 

Impatiently awaiting my Andriod. It just cleared customs in China and accepted by airline.
I' still planning on deleting the nav door and multi-display assembly completely. Looks like the 6 pin connect has the lines for power

I found a latching 2PDT control board should let me switch sources with a press of the climate control's (former) open or close buttons. Might need to do some control level shifting, but I think I can get it to work. With a pair of the switch boards, I should be able to switch between Android, classic ipod, and ML head end as source audio.


Just waiting for things to arrive.

 

With the cold weather upon us here in New England, I'm looking into picking up some winter tires. Anyone have suggested sizes (especially for the rear)? Thinking of get something not quite as thick as stock to help cut through snow better.